351w stroker intake for Shaker use

[Powershift 19]

I suspect you are correct. I will most likely be using a Victor Jr intake as well, and suspect I will be lucky to not have to use a spacer to take full advantage of my motor. Fortunately, I work part time for Maximum Motorsports, and have access to some very talented metal workers. If fab work needs to be done to the Shaker, I will take FULL advantage of their skills!

[BigDuke6 17]

I suspect you are correct. I will most likely be using a Victor Jr intake as well, and suspect I will be lucky to not have to use a spacer to take full advantage of my motor. Fortunately, I work part time for Maximum Motorsports, and have access to some very talented metal workers. If fab work needs to be done to the Shaker, I will take FULL advantage of their skills!

 

Please don't cut up your air cleaner base. There is a company in Oz that makes fiberglass drop base air cleaner assembly in either 25 mm (1 inch) or 40 mm (1.57 inch)

 

http://www.fomoco.com.au/Shop/

 

just type in "shaker" under search

 

here is the part number for the 25 mm drop base SHAKBASL1

 

and for the 40 mm drop base SHAKBASL2

 

I would try the 40 mm drop and go from there. You can always add a carb spacer if it is too low.

[BigDuke6 17]

I'm starting to see why so many have ditched the Shaker when doing a new project build.

 

I agonized about adding a shaker for years before finally giving up on the idea. I am running an Air Gap and the only way to do it is a drop base air cleaner base like what Buckeye Demon did only I lack the skills and tools to do it. I would also have to drop my engine but am worried about bump steer. I have decided to try and add a ram air unit from a 1968 1/2 mustang CJ and open up the hood under the scoop. That is the best I can hope for.

[CrazyHorse1847 10]

This company offers fiberglass shakers too. Maybe you could use one of these bases with your original parts and save having to cut your base.

 

http://www.fordramair.com/index.html

 

That's awesome that you work at Maximum Motorsports, they make great stuff. I have their complete setup on my '01. Handles great on the road course events that I have run.

[BigDuke6 17]

This company offers fiberglass shakers too. Maybe you could use one of these bases with your original parts and save having to cut your base.

 

http://www.fordramair.com/index.html

 

 

I think I recall reading somewhere that the biggest drop they offer is 3/8 inch by using a big block kit on a small block car.

[Powershift 19]

I'm all for not having to cut up the original base. Those aftermarket drop bases seem like a great thing to try. I won't know how much of a drop I will need until the engine and trans are in the car. But, if I can get one of those to work... I'll give it a shot!

 

Thanks for the help, guys. I can honestly say this is one of THE best web sites for help... without attitudes!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i started with a 428 shaker base. it wasn't even close to fitting. in hindsight, i wish i would have just found some generic early ford air cleaner base and carved that up.

 

good luck.

[Powershift 19]

I called Keith Craft this morning, and told them my Shaker dilema. They suggested an Edelbrock Airgap intake, as it is lower in height than a Victor Jr. The Victor JR is the intake they use for the advertised power rating of my stroker motor. They also said using the Airgap may hurt peak power by up to 25hp. Granted, going from 550hp to 525 isn't anything to cry home about. But, if I'm paying for 550, it would be nice to have it! LOL

[buening 63]

I called Keith Craft this morning, and told them my Shaker dilema. They suggested an Edelbrock Airgap intake, as it is lower in height than a Victor Jr. The Victor JR is the intake they use for the advertised power rating of my stroker motor. They also said using the Airgap may hurt peak power by up to 25hp. Granted, going from 550hp to 525 isn't anything to cry home about. But, if I'm paying for 550, it would be nice to have it! LOL

 

I wonder how the air gap does below peak compared to the vic jr? I would give up 25hp at 6500rpm if i could instead gain 25hp in the 3-4000rpm range...unless you plan of drag racing you will really have to push it to rev up that high on the street at those power levels. I think the air gap has the carb pad sloped which map help with the shaker

[Powershift 19]

They said the same think at KC. I should pick up some bottom end/mid range with an Airgap. And, if giving up 25hp makes the Shaker fit better it might just be worth the loss. It's not like the car will be a slouch with "only" 525hp. The car will be 99% street car, with maybe a few hot laps at Laguna Seca once a year.

[BigDuke6 17]

They said the same think at KC. I should pick up some bottom end/mid range with an Airgap. And, if giving up 25hp makes the Shaker fit better it might just be worth the loss. It's not like the car will be a slouch with "only" 525hp. The car will be 99% street car, with maybe a few hot laps at Laguna Seca once a year.

 

for 99% street, I would not get a Vic Jr. Yes, it will make more HP at top rpm but it will give up torque to the Air Gap at lower rpm, i.e., where most of your street driving will be.

 

These guys ran a back to back comparison on a Chevy and the Air Gap did very well against the Vic. Jr. The Air Gap made more power than the Vic Jr. until you got to high rpms. Granted, it was not on a stroker and it was a chevy so any extrapolation of these results to a ford stroker may not be valid.

 

 

As for fit, I am not sure the Air Gap fits any better than the Vic

 

According to Edelbrock, the Air Gap's manifold height is : A-5.31", B-6.19 and A/B = 5.85"

 

the Vic. Jr. Manifold height: A-5.75", B-5.75", and A/B = 5.75"

 

so the air gap sits a 10th of an inch higher than the Vic. Jr. Ask Buckeye Demon if he had enough space after all his mods to his shaker if he could have found another .1 of an inch of space

Edited March 17, 2012 by BigDuke6

[Powershift 19]

I know Keith Craft told me today the Airgap would work better with my Shaker. So if the height isn't the major advantage, I would guess it's more the angle of the carb mounting that makes it work better for a Shaker.

 

Either way, I'm sure I have some work ahead of me to get the Shaker to fit.

[BigDuke6 17]

I know Keith Craft told me today the Airgap would work better with my Shaker. So if the height isn't the major advantage, I would guess it's more the angle of the carb mounting that makes it work better for a Shaker.

 

Either way, I'm sure I have some work ahead of me to get the Shaker to fit.

 

If you get yours to fit with an Air Gap, please report back with what was done because I am just dying to put one on my car.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

So if the height isn't the major advantage, I would guess it's more the angle of the carb mounting that makes it work better for a Shaker.

 

 

exactly. when you sketch a pic of two examples, one with an angle and the other level, you will easily see how the large diameter midplate or shaker creates the issue. with an unfavorable angle, the front side (front edge of the midplate or shaker base will easily touch the hood, while the backside gains more clearance.

 

averaging the intake manifold measurements is only one small piece of the puzzle.

 

i had to remove the small little bracket that holds the one screw for the scoop in the midplate and make my own in order to gain another 0.1" or so clearance at the front.

 

you can see in this pic how angle the shaker setup is in relation to the carb flange.

 

either intake will be a challenge.

[BigDuke6 17]

either intake will be a challenge.

 

In your opinion, would that fiberglass air cleaner base with the 1.57" drop result in any interference with carb linkages and whatnot? I have a Holley 4150 type carb.

[Powershift 19]

Buckeye... great pic! That really shows how much the intake alone changes the pitch of the Shaker.

 

Modern Driveline reported the TKO trans is a tight fit, and will also affect the angle of the engine if some clearance in the Trans Tunnel isn't made. So, I'm planning to add approximately 1" of height to the Trans Tunnel (at the interference area). Modern said doing this will allow the TKO to rest as close as possible to the same angel the Top Loader is now. The trans itself will also have some high areas "modified" (by either Tremec or Modern) in known trouble fitting areas to help. This SHOULD help the engine stay near the original angle.

 

I have the choice to cut the floor and weld in a 1" taller patch.... or use to use hammer to try and make room instead! No thanks on the hammer! Normally, I wouldn't want to cut on my car in ANY way. But, doing sheet metal work sounds like the "correct" way to do this job to me.

 

I'll be changing seats during the car's overhaul too. Once the seats are out, and the carpet is pulled back, the trans tunnel will be easily exposed. It seems that would be the best time to have the work done. I think (hope) adding around 1" to the height of the tunnel shouldn't show much once the carpet and new seats are reinstalled.

 

I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here, so if anyone knows of a better way...or if I'm thinking in the wrong direction... I'm ALL ears! HA HA!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

In your opinion, would that fiberglass air cleaner base with the 1.57" drop result in any interference with carb linkages and whatnot? I have a Holley 4150 type carb.

 

i doubt the carb linkage would be an issue. i would be a little concerned about a vac secondary and clearance for a choke horn if you are running one.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Buckeye... great pic! That really shows how much the intake alone changes the pitch of the Shaker.

 

Modern Driveline reported the TKO trans is a tight fit, and will also affect the angle of the engine if some clearance in the Trans Tunnel isn't made. So, I'm planning to add approximately 1" of height to the Trans Tunnel (at the interference area). Modern said doing this will allow the TKO to rest as close as possible to the same angel the Top Loader is now. The trans itself will also have some high areas "modified" (by either Tremec or Modern) in known trouble fitting areas to help. This SHOULD help the engine stay near the original angle.

 

I have the choice to cut the floor and weld in a 1" taller patch.... or use to use hammer to try and make room instead! No thanks on the hammer! Normally, I wouldn't want to cut on my car in ANY way. But, doing sheet metal work sounds like the "correct" way to do this job to me.

 

I'll be changing seats during the car's overhaul too. Once the seats are out, and the carpet is pulled back, the trans tunnel will be easily exposed. It seems that would be the best time to have the work done. I think (hope) adding around 1" to the height of the tunnel shouldn't show much once the carpet and new seats are reinstalled.

 

I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here, so if anyone knows of a better way...or if I'm thinking in the wrong direction... I'm ALL ears! HA HA!

 

i believe modern drops the tail of the transmission down about 3/4" below where it should be so that customers don't have to do any cutting.

 

if you drop the engine 1/2" then you don't need to raise the transmission so much. i notched the upper crossmember and made my own tranmssion crossmember and it added on the order of 0.5 to 0.75 degrees of engine angle.

 

i would suspect you could make some very small mods to the tunnel to raise it up another 1/4" or more. the TKO is very square on the top which is why it's a problem. basically i don't believe you will need to add 1" of material to your transmission tunnel. maybe a 1/4" or so as a ballpark.

 

try to remember to measure the engine angle (relative to the rocker for example) as a point of reference.

 

you could also put the tail of the transmission on a jack (remove the crossmember) and lower it 3/4" and watch how it impacts the shaker and other things currently.

[BigDuke6 17]

i doubt the carb linkage would be an issue. i would be a little concerned about a vac secondary and clearance for a choke horn if you are running one.

 

thanks

[Powershift 19]

Great advice, Buckeye. Thanks!!

[LindenBruce 27]

Please don't cut up your air cleaner base. There is a company in Oz that makes fiberglass drop base air cleaner assembly in either 25 mm (1 inch) or 40 mm (1.57 inch)

http://www.fomoco.com.au/Shop/

just type in "shaker" under search

here is the part number for the 25 mm drop base SHAKBASL1

and for the 40 mm drop base SHAKBASL2

I would try the 40 mm drop and go from there. You can always add a carb spacer if it is too low.

 

YES, please don't cut up your air cleaner base if you don't have to. When I read Buckeye's thread some time ago I had a major heart attack after learning he cut up his 428 base (just kidding but it felt like it). Especially since I am in need of a 428 r-code base for my car when someone swapped out the original engine for a 73 Cleveland long ago. Bruce

[Powershift 19]

If I can get one of those aftermarket bases to work with the Shaker, I will. But, If all else fails I won't have much choice but to modify the original.

[BigDuke6 17]

If I can get one of those aftermarket bases to work with the Shaker, I will. But, If all else fails I won't have much choice but to modify the original.

 

when you are done, can I please ask that you post a follow up and tell us whether you were able to make it work? Inquiring minds want to know!

 

What is your ETA?

[Powershift 19]

when you are done, can I please ask that you post a follow up and tell us whether you were able to make it work? Inquiring minds want to know!

 

What is your ETA?

 

All dependent on how long it takes my engine and trans to arrive, along with the other conversion parts needed. I know Keith Craft said 4-6 weeks, but I would bet it's safer to assume it's closer to 6.

 

Once everything is here, the game plan is to pull the 351C/Top Loader, and swap in the 408/TKO, in the same weekend.

 

I will update the thread, for sure, once I get to that stage though!

Edited March 18, 2012 by Powershift

[cobrakidz 10]

If I can get one of those aftermarket bases to work with the Shaker, I will. But, If all else fails I won't have much choice but to modify the original.

It takes a real man to cut up a rare part.....haha