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panteramatt

FMX to TKO600?

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I am seriously thinking of replacing my sluggish fmx auto to a tko 600 manual in my 69 as I seriously miss having a manual. I searched a little but didnt find much info on whats involved and what parts I need besides obviously a new pedal set, tranny and clutch.

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here's what i could think of that you'll need to consider

 

1. money

2. common sense

3. desire to make the swap

4. clutch/pressure pate

5. flywheel

6. bell

7. pilot bearing

8. throwout bearing

9. manual or hydraulic clutch linkage

10. headers that fit

11. crossmember

12. rubber transmission mount

13. driveshaft/slip yoke

14. shifter

15. shift lever

16. shift lever seal.

17. reverse light switch

18. speedo cable

19. tunnel clearance

20. clutch pedal

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If I use a hydraulic clutch, would I still have clearance issues?

 

with the vast number of fittings (angles, bulkheads, etc), flex line, hardline, i would be surprised if you couldn't find a way to route the hydraulic lines such they wouldn't interfere with whatever header you're using.

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If you use the smaller 157 tooth flywheel and bell you shouldn't have any problems clearing it with most any header. It's also a good idea to use the late model flywheel so you can also use the late model permanent magnet starters that are much smaller, weigh less and are readily available from any auto parts store should you need a replacement down the road.

 

A hyd clutch is nice as it keeps pedal effort down and can be easily routed around non stock steering options (i.e. rack and pinion) if you ever decide to go that way. Since you don't already have the clutch linkage anyway, that's the way I'd go.

 

Clutch, PP and TO bearing usually come as a matched kit anyway, so just tell the salesman what engine you have and how much torque you expect to make, and they'll set you up.

 

Having done this exact swap myself, I found the shifter needed to move left about a 1/2" to center it in the console. I had a custom shifter handle made from an original 4 speed handle that offsets it to the left the required amount. I converted my old 3550 to a TKO600 so I had to step up to an aftermarket shifter. The new TKO600s come with a decent shifter, so that shouldn't be an issue for you. I had to disassemble mine and install the lower shifter housing on the tranny prior to installation as there is no room to install it once it's in place. Then I installed the lower and upper handle from inside the car.

 

The reverse light switch comes pre-installed in the tranny, but you will need the harness that goes to it in place of the neutral safety switch, or you may be able to modify the NSS harness by splicing in a receptacle for the back up light switch. NPD now makes a harness for this swap though(same as the T5), so that's the easy way to go.

 

Tunnel clearance is going to be tight! I had to modify the front two shifter covers in order to raise it enough to get the correct pinion angle without fouling against the floorpan.

Edited by 69gmachine
clarification

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Im junking the toploader for a Kiesler RS600 - just have to wait 8 months....

 

Not as bad as going through an auto to manual but can't wait for February to come along..............

 

just curious, but did you place an order and it came back with an 8 month lead time? or did they tell you on the phone or something to wait 8 months and try again?

 

i hope for people doing this swap (seems like the RS600 is the way to go) that they don't have to hear promises about a delivery date that keeps slipping.

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just curious, but did you place an order and it came back with an 8 month lead time? or did they tell you on the phone or something to wait 8 months and try again?

 

i hope for people doing this swap (seems like the RS600 is the way to go) that they don't have to hear promises about a delivery date that keeps slipping.

 

original order placed end of June.... October promise...

 

Follow up in September as I needed to go for the clutch resulted in re-promise to x in February...

 

Nice email arrived last week stating the have the necessary incoming parts, good message - follow on call two days ago stated still February. If I want a RS500 I can get that in two months as their order system is on date of order placed so I can jump but I really need/ want the RS600.

 

BTW - just got an e-mail today as they are celebrating their 20th anniversary. Nice history and ironically enough a $200 coupon for ANY NEW ORDER!

 

tick tock... tick tock...

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original order placed end of June.... October promise...

 

Follow up in September as I needed to go for the clutch resulted in re-promise to x in February...

 

Nice email arrived last week stating the have the necessary incoming parts, good message - follow on call two days ago stated still February. If I want a RS500 I can get that in two months as their order system is on date of order placed so I can jump but I really need/ want the RS600.

 

BTW - just got an e-mail today as they are celebrating their 20th anniversary. Nice history and ironically enough a $200 coupon for ANY NEW ORDER!

 

tick tock... tick tock...

 

interesting. thank you.

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WOW! Great info there, thanx. You have the exact same drivetrain I plan on building too. What crossmember did you use?

 

 

 

 

 

If you use the smaller 157 tooth flywheel and bell you shouldn't have any problems clearing it with most any header. It's also a good idea to use the late model flywheel so you can also use the late model permanent magnet starters that are much smaller, weigh less and are readily available from any auto parts store should you need a replacement down the road.

 

A hyd clutch is nice as it keeps pedal effort down and can be easily routed around non stock steering options (i.e. rack and pinion) if you ever decide to go that way. Since you don't already have the clutch linkage anyway, that's the way I'd go.

 

Clutch, PP and TO bearing usually come as a matched kit anyway, so just tell the salesman what engine you have and how much torque you expect to make, and they'll set you up.

 

Having done this exact swap myself, I found the shifter needed to move left about a 1/2" to center it in the console. I had a custom shifter handle made from an original 4 speed handle that offsets it to the left the required amount. I converted my old 3550 to a TKO600 so I had to step up to an aftermarket shifter. The new TKO600s come with a decent shifter, so that shouldn't be an issue for you. I had to disassemble mine and install the lower shifter housing on the tranny prior to installation as there is no room to install it once it's in place. Then I installed the lower and upper handle from inside the car.

 

The reverse light switch comes pre-installed in the tranny, but you will need the harness that goes to it in place of the neutral safety switch, or you may be able to modify the NSS harness by splicing in a receptacle for the back up light switch. NPD now makes a harness for this swap though(same as the T5), so that's the easy way to go.

 

Tunnel clearance is going to be tight! I had to modify the front two shifter covers in order to raise it enough to get the correct pinion angle without fouling against the floorpan.

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WOW! Great info there, thanx. You have the exact same drivetrain I plan on building too. What crossmember did you use?

 

I believe it was from Dark Horse, but I bought it around 1997 when the TR3550 just came out so I'm going by a pretty dim memory. I had to re-drill the holes for the trans mount to make it line up correctly, but it wasn't particularly hard.

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