1969 Mach1 14 Report post Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) MikeStang: Good quality thermostatic type clutch fans work pretty good. Although, I have seen fairly low maximum RPM ratings for some. I can say, the factory Ford clutch fan on my 1995 F150 has always worked great. However, it seems to fully engage at about 195-200 deg. F. I dont' know wether or not a clutch fan would solve your issue. Make sure your 5 blade is correct for a 351W and not one of those repro's for a 289-302. FYI: If you decide to change out to a different fan and end up going with a 6 or 7 blade non clutch type fan do yourself a favor and stay away from the the Flex-a-lite flex fans. I had a couple in the past, they work fine. But the blades are knife sharp and you will cut your hands and arms installing and removing them. I currently use a 6 blade 17" diameter Derale flex fan (non clutch). It has a lower RPM rating then the Flex-a-lite, 8000 RPM vs 10,000 RPM respectively. But the Derale flex fans use thicker blades with additional blade stiffeners and has no sharp edges so you won't cut yourself installing one. Also, look through the manufacturers web sites for info before you select a new fan. There are many different styles for different applications. Edited September 28, 2011 by 1969 Mach1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 The fan i have is a Factory origional ford 5 Blade unit, not sure if its for a 302, or a windsor, it fits inside of the fan shroud, im sure i can put a larger fan in there, just dont know if it will help :9 I hear ya on the flexolite fans those things are sharp as all get out. I may try a 7 blade unit, Definatley going to just put a Flow Kooler pump on for sure Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted October 11, 2011 Ok so I put the flow cooler pump on......it helped, but when you sit with transmission in gear and let it idle it will start to run hot.....you can put it in neutral and it will cool down.....or you can leave it in gear and give it some gas and it will cool off and hold temp...so I thought I could idle it up and try it, but when u idle it up and throw it in gear it goes into gear too hard..... Measured the fan....it's 17 5/8"in dia, with 5 blades.... That should be plenty to cool it, but it's like it's just not enough air.....water seems to be moving better than it was. You can idle it up some and it really gets to moving and cools off easy.....can't put a bigger fan on it, the one now is 1/2" from the shroud on the bottom now.....wondering if going with a 7 blade or even a 6 would help???? Gotta figure this out Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SM69Mach 68 Report post Posted October 11, 2011 How hi does the temp get when you leave it in gear and let it idle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted October 11, 2011 I shut her off at 200....My thing is i dont want it to get to 190....none of my old muscle cars have ever run constantly above 185....hell my trans am wont hardly get off of 165-170 in traffic...its odd really. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJ_Bob 10 Report post Posted October 12, 2011 Sorry if this was covered in this huge post, but the water jacket sounds like it is clogged. A reverse power flush may clear it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969 Mach1 14 Report post Posted October 12, 2011 Not sure, this post is so long. I think the issue of blockage was brought up some time ago. From what I gather his heating problem is always at idle. At cruising speeds it cools back down. Indicating an air flow issue through the radiator. By the way, is there any aftermarket screen or anything else in fromt of the radiator that may reduce flow through the radiator? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted October 13, 2011 There is nothing in front of the radiator yet lol.....gonna be putting the condenser on it soon. Got a loaner 7 blade clutch fan, so gonna give it a run Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jag 10 Report post Posted October 14, 2011 I read the posts and it seems like the key is lack of flow at idle conditions. You seem to have checked all except a partially plugged heater core. That would be a definite restriction. To easily check it out, bypass the heater core in the engine compartment and re-check the flow in the radiator at idle. My two cents JAG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 Thanks JAg, i have not checked that as of yet...I will give it a look tomorrow morning....gotta take the hoses loose anyhow to put in the heater control valve Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 A heater core should have no effect on running temps at idle. They aren't engineered to work that way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jag 10 Report post Posted October 19, 2011 A heater core can have an effect on temps at idle. My car consistently ran at the top of the temp range. I changed everything to no avail. The next year I developed a heater core leak. I replaced it. My car now runs almost too cool. The only difference is the heater core. That is the path back to the heater. If it is 50% plugged do you get 100% flow to the radiator that it was designed for? JAG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted October 19, 2011 A heater core can have an effect on temps at idle. My car consistently ran at the top of the temp range. I changed everything to no avail. The next year I developed a heater core leak. I replaced it. My car now runs almost too cool. The only difference is the heater core. That is the path back to the heater. If it is 50% plugged do you get 100% flow to the radiator that it was designed for?JAG A plugged heater core is the same as a bypassed heater core from an engine cooling standpoint. A/C cars have a cutoff switch the bypasses it anyway. Cooling systems are designed by the factory so that heater cores are not a factor in engine cooling. You are not using them half the year anyway. If your heater core effects your cooling in any way, it is a byproduct or symptom of other problems. I have seen racers turn the heat on when running at the strip to get that last ounce of cooling, but that is just masking the fact that they don't have enough radiator in the first place. These days with high flow aluminum radiators, there is no reason to have to do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969 Mach1 14 Report post Posted October 19, 2011 I agree with Max Power. I have had a car with an overheating problem, and yes you can turn on the heater to help cool the engine. But, heaters are not designed to assist in cooling the engine. If they were, auto manufacturers would not have put hot water shut off valves for the heaters on many vehicles with factory A/C. Something else is wrong if the heater is being used to help cool the engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve69 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2011 I had the exact same problem with my 302. Mine would keep on creeping at idle all the way up to 230 degrees then it wouldn't want to start. What I did with mine was a 26" Aluminum Radiator, Flow Kooler water pump, Early Ford Taurus Electric Fan. This did cool it down and keep it at the 195-200 degree ranger durning Idle. I still had the warm start up problem. Id go out and have to crank and pump the pedal and it was like there was no fuel there. I checked and I had spark. Im running a Holley 570 Avenger. I added a 1" carb spacer same problem. So here's what fixed my warm starting problem. I took off the fuel line and filter. I put a Cheap Clear Filter between the Frame and Pump. Where the fuel goes into the pump not out. I bent a steel brake line and then I covered it with rubber 3/8 fuel hose to help protect from heat. I left some rubber on the ends to clap the hose to the fuel pump and carburetor. When your bending the steel line you want to make sure it doesn't touch any part of the engine. When I warm start now I push the pedal 1/4 before crank and it fires right off and runs perfect. I had no issues starting or running all this last summer. Hope this helps Steve69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
