Favorite Tools, Equipment, Must Haves, ETC...

[Pakrat 1,043]

Definitely spend the extra money on the 5 volume Ford Shop Manual over a cheaper Haynes or Chiltons. The other 2 are OK to have as an extra or quick reference but they are no substitute. The various brown assembly manuals are also very handy to have, at least for the body and interior.

[1969 coupe 15]

Definitely spend the extra money on the 5 volume Ford Shop Manual over a cheaper Haynes or Chiltons. The other 2 are OK to have as an extra or quick reference but they are no substitute. The various brown assembly manuals are also very handy to have, at least for the body and interior.

 

 

You are on the ball today, where do I get these manuals and about how much are they?

[Pakrat 1,043]

Pretty much all the Mustang vendors have them, I tend to buy a lot of my stuff from Virginia Classic Mustang but it pays to shop around for specials, sales and free shipping offers. CJ's and NPD are also good sources I use often.

 

Shop manuals on CD: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/1969-FORD-SHOP-MANUAL-ON-CD-P3482C3120.aspx

 

I try to go green whenever I can but I still like books for things like this, easy to use in the garage and make notes or highlight things in:

 

Shop manual books: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/69-SHOP-MANUAL-SET-5-VOLUME-SET-P3450C3122.aspx

 

Body manual: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/BODY-ASSEMBLY-MANUAL-INDICATE-YEAR-P3458C3123.aspx

 

Chasis: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/CHASSIS-ASSEMBLY-MANUAL-INDICATE-YEAR-P3473C3123.aspx

 

Electrical: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/ELECTRICAL-ASSEMBLY-MANUAL-INDICATE-YEAR-P3460C3123.aspx

 

Interior: (Not available in '69 but '70 is close enough) http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/INTERIOR-ASSEMBLY-MANUAL-INDICATE-YEAR-P3459C3123.aspx

 

Various others for misc details.

[Lemon Owner 11]

The "poor man's" slide hammer for removing rear axles is to take a drum and put it on backwards over the studs after removing all the hardware, then put the lug nuts on just enough so they cover the end of the stud. Then just yank on the drum against the lug nuts until the axle slides out. This has worked for me every time.

 

 

Trust me that was the first thing I tried. These axels haven't been out in 40 plus years and they weren't budging for love or money. Like when I try to remove a ball joint you can guarantee that bastard aint going to move with a sharp strike from two hammers. That would be too easy.

[LiLMike 42]

Something else you might want to consider is a good Tap & Die set. Not only can you use this for what it was designed for, what I do is use it for cleaning out threads that have burrs in them or maybe full of grease and/or dirt in them before I assemble something. I also use it for cutting bolts & screws. I run the die down the bolt/screw where I want to make a cut, then use my hack saw or dremmel with a cutting wheel to make my cut. After cutting I back the die off thus cleaning the threads and making it easier to thread the bolt/screw. It also gives me a guide for a straight cut.

[1969 coupe 15]

Yeah that's a good suggestion and great tip for cutting straight. I have looked at a few sets, but not sure which one to get. Most I have found go up to 1/2 inch only, but I don't know if that is big enough. How big of a set do I need?

[LiLMike 42]

What I did was get just a basic one and then added to it as needed. At times I needed a larger size and a couple of times I needed a size that was between the sizes I already had. Just add to it and keep them all together.