Rear Suspension - Road Racing/AutoX

[kennygunit 10]

Hello,

 

I have a 1969 coupe thats going to have a T56 6-speed, and a supercharged 351w. I want to make sure i have a good rear suspension setup for the car. I don't want to keep the leafs in the back, and was looking for a coil-over suspension system. I was thinking about getting either the G-Bar or Pushrod from TCP (linked below).

 

Does anyone else have suggestions on which suspension system you would go with? As for price, the most i would pay is for the push rod from TCP.

 

pushrod: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rpss_fd.html

 

g-Bar: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html

 

Thanks!

[Daves69Coupe 10]

yea I do Maier Racing, heres the link http://www.maierracing.com/.

 

Just go under products and go to suspension. They have pan hard rod kits and full suspension setups. Definently someone Id go with.

[kennygunit 10]

Why would you say Maier Racing is better than TCP? I've heard so many debates about it.

[Daves69Coupe 10]

didnt say better he just asked if there was any other companies out there. I love Maiers one rear suspension but not enough to buy it for 6K.

[rwcstang 201]

hrm have you ever wanted to do an IRS swap from the 03-04 cobras?

[kennygunit 10]

hrm have you ever wanted to do an IRS swap from the 03-04 cobras?

 

I thought about it, but decided against it. I don't think it would be able to handle the power i would be putting out.

[buening 63]

Of the two I'd prefer the pushrod suspension, but keep in mind it has a Watts link and exhaust routing will be a pain.

[buening 63]

Here is a few other 3 link options: http://www.autoworksracing.com/rrs_3_link__rear_suspension%20pg.htm

 

http://www.fabquest.com/64-70-ford-mustang-or-67-68-cougar-tci-torque-arm-rear-suspension-kit.html

 

http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/assets/pdf/64-70_Mustang_Torque_Arm_Rev02.pdf

 

The latter uses a panhard rod, which is inferior to the Watts used by the RRS. The TCI is also half the price though.

[kennygunit 10]

I have about 4k saved up (saving up for another grand) and about ready to pull the gun on a rear suspension, but i just cant figure out which one i want!

 

Can someone help me out with the pro's and cons of all these?

[kennygunit 10]

I have about 4k saved up (saving up for another grand) and about ready to pull the gun on a rear suspension, but i just cant figure out which one i want!

 

Can someone help me out with the pro's and cons of all these?

[FABQuest 10]

Our customers are very satisfied with the TCI TA kit. We've sold quite a number of these kits and the response is typical of this review: http://www.fabquest.com/review/product/list/id/56/category/32/

 

IMO a watts link is the ultimate device for rear axle control although we typically don't recommend them for street cars due to their "finicky" nature. Setup can be difficult to maintain. They do reduce overall suspension articulation vs. other axle control devices making them often too harsh for street use. Most watts users will have side dump exhaust. The TIC kit uses a low mount very long panhard bar. Mounting it low reduces your roll center and a long bar will enlarge the pivot arc greatly reducing (just about nil) any side to side articulation. Its a good design and street friendly. The average street rod high mount panhard (attached to the top of your center section) will induce body roll and may move your axle side to side up to .5" due to its smallish pivot arc. Obviously these are not designed for cornering.

The TCI kit includes fixtures to aid in welding the axle brackets onto your own Ford or you can add a Currie 9" custom narrowed with the brackets pre-welded in place. We also offer a FAB9 and or aluminum 3rd members etc.

The TCI TA will take up to an honest 900 HP. You can go beyond by swapping to heim joints. Besides the highly engineered nature of their product (TCI is known for fit and finish) take a look at your shock options. Put your money into the shocks first and foremost. TCI makes their own aluminum shocks in CA. I've toured the facility. Their billet shocks use a shim stack valving system, not the low end mono tube design most others use. You motorcycle guys will understand the value of this feature. They are tunable and rebuildable. For the price, the TCI kit can't be beat.

If you'd like, I can e-mail you the install sheet. Just let me know.

Dave

[FABQuest 10]

Our customers are very satisfied with the TCI TA kit. We've sold quite a number of these kits and the response is typical of this review: http://www.fabquest.com/review/product/list/id/56/category/32/

 

IMO a watts link is the ultimate device for rear axle control although we typically don't recommend them for street cars due to their "finicky" nature. Setup can be difficult to maintain. They do reduce overall suspension articulation vs. other axle control devices making them often too harsh for street use. Most watts users will have side dump exhaust. The TIC kit uses a low mount very long panhard bar. Mounting it low reduces your roll center and a long bar will enlarge the pivot arc greatly reducing (just about nil) any side to side articulation. Its a good design and street friendly. The average street rod high mount panhard (attached to the top of your center section) will induce body roll and may move your axle side to side up to .5" due to its smallish pivot arc. Obviously these are not designed for cornering.

The TCI kit includes fixtures to aid in welding the axle brackets onto your own Ford or you can add a Currie 9" custom narrowed with the brackets pre-welded in place. We also offer a FAB9 and or aluminum 3rd members etc.

The TCI TA will take up to an honest 900 HP. You can go beyond by swapping to heim joints. Besides the highly engineered nature of their product (TCI is known for fit and finish) take a look at your shock options. Put your money into the shocks first and foremost. TCI makes their own aluminum shocks in CA. I've toured the facility. Their billet shocks use a shim stack valving system, not the low end mono tube design most others use. You motorcycle guys will understand the value of this feature. They are tunable and rebuildable. For the price, the TCI kit can't be beat.

If you'd like, I can e-mail you the install sheet. Just let me know.

Dave

[69cobraman 10]

kennygunit, you could look at http://www.griggsracingproducts for your solution. I think they are also on youtube, maybe get some answers there. That is the way I'm going on mine. Good luck on your decision. My2cts.

[69cobraman 10]

kennygunit, you could look at http://www.griggsracingproducts for your solution. I think they are also on youtube, maybe get some answers there. That is the way I'm going on mine. Good luck on your decision. My2cts.

[kennygunit 10]

kennygunit, you could look at http://www.griggsracingproducts for your solution. I think they are also on youtube, maybe get some answers there. That is the way I'm going on mine. Good luck on your decision. My2cts.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what brought you to your decision?

[kennygunit 10]

kennygunit, you could look at http://www.griggsracingproducts for your solution. I think they are also on youtube, maybe get some answers there. That is the way I'm going on mine. Good luck on your decision. My2cts.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what brought you to your decision?

[fvike 173]

I have the TCP RPSS. I'm happy with it, but the quality of the VariShocks is questionable. I've on my 2nd set on all 4 corners. Thy don't have any protection from dust and gravel that builds atop of them, at least here in Norway. So the top seals gets ruined. The rear dampers got ruined when I drove over a drainpipe at speed. Ripped the driver side rear shock in two.

 

The suspension works very well on the race track (I run a truetrac diff), but is a bit stiff downtown (speedbumps and such) due to the short suspension travel. I have softer springs to it also, but it's a hassle to change back and forth.

I did manage to route an 2 1/2 in. exhaust system tru it with relative ease, using Flowmaster parts. The hard part was under the car, getting it to clear the subframe connector x-brace and the rear footwell on the driver side because the torque arm "dogbone" link is fastened there. Had to ding the footwell a bit in the corner to make room.

 

 

The Subrame X-brace is a nice piece that does wonders for the chassis, and should be installed anyway, even if you don't buy this suspension.

 

Just ask if you have any questions.

[fvike 173]

I have the TCP RPSS. I'm happy with it, but the quality of the VariShocks is questionable. I've on my 2nd set on all 4 corners. Thy don't have any protection from dust and gravel that builds atop of them, at least here in Norway. So the top seals gets ruined. The rear dampers got ruined when I drove over a drainpipe at speed. Ripped the driver side rear shock in two.

 

The suspension works very well on the race track (I run a truetrac diff), but is a bit stiff downtown (speedbumps and such) due to the short suspension travel. I have softer springs to it also, but it's a hassle to change back and forth.

I did manage to route an 2 1/2 in. exhaust system tru it with relative ease, using Flowmaster parts. The hard part was under the car, getting it to clear the subframe connector x-brace and the rear footwell on the driver side because the torque arm "dogbone" link is fastened there. Had to ding the footwell a bit in the corner to make room.

 

 

The Subrame X-brace is a nice piece that does wonders for the chassis, and should be installed anyway, even if you don't buy this suspension.

 

Just ask if you have any questions.

[kennygunit 10]

Thanks for the response fvike!

 

I already installed the subframes and x brace about a year ago, and i love it so far!

 

So overall, would you recommend getting it?

 

Also, what would be a good spring rate for track/hard street driving?

 

Was the install pretty painless?

 

Do you have any more pictures of what the car looks like installed?

 

Have you had any ground clearance issues?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but your one of the only people i know who have it installed!

[kennygunit 10]

Thanks for the response fvike!

 

I already installed the subframes and x brace about a year ago, and i love it so far!

 

So overall, would you recommend getting it?

 

Also, what would be a good spring rate for track/hard street driving?

 

Was the install pretty painless?

 

Do you have any more pictures of what the car looks like installed?

 

Have you had any ground clearance issues?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but your one of the only people i know who have it installed!

[fvike 173]

So overall, would you recommend getting it?

Yeah, I do, it's a very good system, the car is very stable and the wheels feels planted on the ground. Never had any wheeelhop or anythink like that. The car handles very good, and changes direction very fast. I've found the stock seats to be no good. I need seats with lateral support.

 

Also, what would be a good spring rate for track/hard street driving?

I have 275 and 240 lb springs, but the problem is the short shocktravel. It is not as confortable as leaf springs. I hope to get the suspension tuned on cornerweights for best performance.

 

Was the install pretty painless?

It was, I had a certificated welder do the frame bracket welds. The rest was bolt on. Had to file down the powdercoating in some of the bolt holes, other than that, no problems.

 

Do you have any more pictures of what the car looks like installed?

I found a few, but no pictures under the car with the exhaust installed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have you had any ground clearance issues?

No, you can see it on this picture, there are no parts lower than the subframe you already got installed.

[fvike 173]

So overall, would you recommend getting it?

Yeah, I do, it's a very good system, the car is very stable and the wheels feels planted on the ground. Never had any wheeelhop or anythink like that. The car handles very good, and changes direction very fast. I've found the stock seats to be no good. I need seats with lateral support.

 

Also, what would be a good spring rate for track/hard street driving?

I have 275 and 240 lb springs, but the problem is the short shocktravel. It is not as confortable as leaf springs. I hope to get the suspension tuned on cornerweights for best performance.

 

Was the install pretty painless?

It was, I had a certificated welder do the frame bracket welds. The rest was bolt on. Had to file down the powdercoating in some of the bolt holes, other than that, no problems.

 

Do you have any more pictures of what the car looks like installed?

I found a few, but no pictures under the car with the exhaust installed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have you had any ground clearance issues?

No, you can see it on this picture, there are no parts lower than the subframe you already got installed.

[69cobraman 10]

If you don't mind me asking, what brought you to your decision?

 

kennygunit, sorry that I haven't gotten back to you. To answer your question, a mechanic I know use to work for them in Calif. and raced with this product. He also has this installed on his 67 coupe. The front suspension is completely changed. It puts every thing in correct geomtry up front and the rear is completely changed (no leafs). Now you will have to expect the ride to feel like a race car on the street, that is how it is if you change the suspension.

[69cobraman 10]

If you don't mind me asking, what brought you to your decision?

 

kennygunit, sorry that I haven't gotten back to you. To answer your question, a mechanic I know use to work for them in Calif. and raced with this product. He also has this installed on his 67 coupe. The front suspension is completely changed. It puts every thing in correct geomtry up front and the rear is completely changed (no leafs). Now you will have to expect the ride to feel like a race car on the street, that is how it is if you change the suspension.