Junior2561 10 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Great isn't it!? lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Good luck man, looks like you have alot of work ahead of you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves69Coupe 10 Report post Posted May 20, 2011 Good luck man, looks like you have alot of work ahead of you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cornerstone 15 Report post Posted May 22, 2011 Youre a brave man there!! You will be able to say you built from the ground up! Another one saved from the jaws of death!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cornerstone 15 Report post Posted May 22, 2011 Youre a brave man there!! You will be able to say you built from the ground up! Another one saved from the jaws of death!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted May 23, 2011 long road ahead... For what it's worth the Dynacorn floor supports are much heavier, available only in pairs (no biggy for you) and have the proper ebrake cable routing slots and bracket. best of luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted May 23, 2011 long road ahead... For what it's worth the Dynacorn floor supports are much heavier, available only in pairs (no biggy for you) and have the proper ebrake cable routing slots and bracket. best of luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted July 3, 2011 Floor pans are all tacked in. I will admit two mistakes i have learned from during this repair. One - i should have bought a one piece floor pan. I had purchased alot of sheet metal before the car was 100% apart. Second mistake, and you will see the results of this mistake in a few of the pictures, but i ran out of really really really thin cut off wheels, and had to use some normally thin wheels (i forget the sizes). Anyways, this resulted in some larger gaps to fill. All of this would have been avoided with a one piece pan. After i spend some time welding and grinding it will be near seamless. This weekend i plan to get everything welded solid, and hopefully start cleaning up the welds. To do this, i will not grind the weld on the inside of the car, but only from the under side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted July 27, 2011 Camera's on the fritz, but here is a quick update... Floors are welded up, i just need to dress the welds from the underside and finish up any minor areas needing repair. The door hinge plates were stripped out, so i drilled them out and welded nuts onto them, GOOD AS NEW! I've also finished stripping off the rest of the under coating on the outter fender aprons and started to clean up the underside of the car that was not replaced. The Door shells have been hung, the passenger side still needs fitted up a little better, but i need to get the latches in. Next up is to put in the subframe connectors, repair the hood hinge mounts on the aprons, then i can set the hood on and fenders. After that i will start blocking the ecoat and getting it ready for epoxy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted July 28, 2011 Bought a new camera so here are some updated pics... Floors welded in, just need to dress the under side, wire wheel everything clean, then lay down some paint. After that i will weld in the subframe connectors and touch up areas where needed. I'm not a fan of undercoating the whole floor, so it will be painted in the red oxide/primer color (few pics down) Sorry everything is so cluttered, i have been working on cleaning up and putting tools away before work. The Hinge plates repaired The 'red oxide' primer...this was a test to see how close it was to factory. It will be close enough for this project. Undercoating scraped away from the aprons - just have to wire wheel the surface rust/left over coating and prime them. Doors Hung, still working on fit Fenders and extensions being assembled...Tiawan headlight buckets blow BTW, i'll have some time getting a nice fit finally, i have to do what you see below to the entire roof to remove a light surface rust that developed after the PO stripped the car bare. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rudolph Schenker 14 Report post Posted July 28, 2011 Nice work! :cool2: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 8, 2011 Only had about 2 hours to spend on the car this weekend...but i got a little done. If you have worked with Repop panels you know the fit is not always dead on. Well i ran into this issue when replacing pretty much the whole rear 1/3 of the car. My rear valance was not fitting up correctly, and was off by a total of 1 1/8 and did not have a fit i was happy with. So i have to graph in a small patch. First i contoured the metal to match the valance. The center is a perfect area for this since it will mostly be hidden by a rear liscense plate. Sorry if the pics are blurry, i took them with my phone. I cut the valance in half and tacted it up from the back side, making the metal finishing on the front much easier Now it is all fit up. I have to do a little trimming to the rear plate bumper bracket and relocated the mount holes for a plate, but thats minor. I do not that the outter fasteners in, but it fits up TnA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 8, 2011 Only had about 2 hours to spend on the car this weekend...but i got a little done. If you have worked with Repop panels you know the fit is not always dead on. Well i ran into this issue when replacing pretty much the whole rear 1/3 of the car. My rear valance was not fitting up correctly, and was off by a total of 1 1/8 and did not have a fit i was happy with. So i have to graph in a small patch. First i contoured the metal to match the valance. The center is a perfect area for this since it will mostly be hidden by a rear liscense plate. Sorry if the pics are blurry, i took them with my phone. I cut the valance in half and tacted it up from the back side, making the metal finishing on the front much easier Now it is all fit up. I have to do a little trimming to the rear plate bumper bracket and relocated the mount holes for a plate, but thats minor. I do not that the outter fasteners in, but it fits up TnA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 8, 2011 and yes...i cleaned up the garage when i was done..it was oil change weekend at our house lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 8, 2011 and yes...i cleaned up the garage when i was done..it was oil change weekend at our house lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LynnBob Mustang 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 I don't see any pics. Lynn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LynnBob Mustang 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 I don't see any pics. Lynn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 The hosting site is down Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 The hosting site is down Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 site is back up thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 site is back up thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2011 At one point all of the front end sheet metal was on to check for rough fit and alignment. Everything looked decent so now its time to take it all back off to prep the shell for epoxy. Headlight buckets need a lot of fitment work...typical repop parts. I have done hardly any adjustments to the door and fender, so they do not look bad. There are a few gaps i'm not pleased with though. If you look at some of my earlier pictures, there was a big spot of bondo here...i stripped it out and found about 3/4 in of mud. This picture is after i worked out the dent a little bit. Drivers Seat brace in The subframe connectors are tacted in, and the body cart built. Next step is to get the suspension off and the shell on the cart. Passenger door hinge is shot. i need to weld it up alittle and redrill it. Sheet metal coming off for shell prep. sorry for some blurry pics Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2011 At one point all of the front end sheet metal was on to check for rough fit and alignment. Everything looked decent so now its time to take it all back off to prep the shell for epoxy. Headlight buckets need a lot of fitment work...typical repop parts. I have done hardly any adjustments to the door and fender, so they do not look bad. There are a few gaps i'm not pleased with though. If you look at some of my earlier pictures, there was a big spot of bondo here...i stripped it out and found about 3/4 in of mud. This picture is after i worked out the dent a little bit. Drivers Seat brace in The subframe connectors are tacted in, and the body cart built. Next step is to get the suspension off and the shell on the cart. Passenger door hinge is shot. i need to weld it up alittle and redrill it. Sheet metal coming off for shell prep. sorry for some blurry pics Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted August 22, 2011 Making good progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted August 22, 2011 Making good progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites