Mach 1 Project I started...

[Junior2561 10]

PICTURES ARE ON PAGE 12 IF THEY DO NOT COME UP!!!

 

****HERE IS THE LINK TO PICTURES!!! I WILL TRY AND UPDATE THE POSTS WITH THE NEWLEY HOSTED IMAGES

Here are all the pictures...i am going to try and get time in the next weekend to edit all the posts with the pictures. I will do the last few updates asap. thanks fellas

http://s1178.photobucket.com/albums/x362/JAMESRAYNOE/1969%20Mach%201%20Restoration/

 

Short back ground, i use to have an 02 GT and sold it, came accross this steal and could not pass up my dream car.

 

VIN: 9F02M194215

Door Codes: 63C 65 3WA 06E 61 65

 

Came with a 351W and auto trans, plus a TON of parts.

 

 

 

 

I pulled the trim off from around the front and rear window, got the fuel tank out, door panels off, carpet out, interior trim pulled out (most of it) and found out what i really got into lol.....

 

 

the previous owner had taken sheet metal and a tar like substance, and just glued/screwed it down over the rust. Out of sight, out of mind lol.

 

Luckily CJPony Parts has all of the items i need and they are dirt cheap compared to trying to fabricate them all. So a little cutting, grinding, epoxying, triming and welding and she will be good as new.

 

The Rear frame rail extensions (where the rear leaf spring mount) on the drivers side is shot, the passenger side isn't too bad, but both will be replaced anyways.

Edited January 18, 2012 by Junior2561

[Junior2561 10]

the engine is a 94 Lightning roller shortblock. fresh rebuild with Plasma moly rings, new comp cams lifters, ARP Bolts...it will be WD40's and vasolined up in a bag for a while

i know - i need new engine stand bolts....

 

and some of the new sheetmetal

 

[Junior2561 10]

Decklid rusted out lip

Floor Pan pieces to go in. They are just laying there, not installed.

The bottom of this rail is not rotted out, it was torn on removal it will look godd as new though.

Old Rotted out rail end

New Rail ends

New Sheetmetal to go on....

 

[70mstang 11]

Looks like a fun filled winter! One thing I ran into with my repop door shells .. one fit perfect with just a little metal that needed to be added to fill the gaps .. one was all out of whack .. it was more like a parrelalagram than a rectangle .. the lip for the window was too skinny so the window would have rattled terribly.

 

Basically check those repop doors for fit before the vendor's exchange policy expires.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

70mstang,

could you be more descriptive about the window issue for you door?

[70mstang 11]

I'll try .. The repop door shell I got from Mustangs Unlimited for one ... didn't fit the shape of the door opening.

 

It's hard to see here but there is a slight difference in slope of the repop versus the original. [ATTACH]7615[/ATTACH]

 

WhenI got it onto the car I tried shims, adjusting, everything and finally gave up and got a skin for the original and had the shop spend a lot of time cutting out rust and patching to where the door was like brand new.

 

The window thing is really crazy. You can see here that the repop door has the sill where the fuzzy window seal attaches is about 1/4" thinner than the original door. This wouldn't allow the window to seal up properly and would probably have shaken around like crazy. My drivers side repop .. fit great and had no issues with the lip.

[ATTACH]7613[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7614[/ATTACH]

[maxum96 32]

If you're talking about the tops of the door skin not matching where it meets the fender and the front of the quarterpanel, that seems to be normal for the repop doors. I have the same issue with both my repop doors.

[Junior2561 10]

I'm not using repop doors, but i am skinning the one. The shells need patch work, but nothing bad at all.

 

Would anyone suggest skinning from the top style line down, so i stay out of the window chanels and handle?

[Hoover 12]

"Short back ground, i use to have an 02 GT and sold it, came across this steal and could not pass up my dream car."

 

I fail to see that you got a steal. Rust seems to be everywhere on it. When you got visible rust, you also got rust that you cannot now find.

 

It is a good idea to be using new sheet metal for your project. It will more time and more money to get your car back together. Take your time fitting and refitting the sheet metal.

 

Once you get it back together then it will be a dream car. Good luck to you and post progress pics.

[Junior2561 10]

i was finally able to get back out to the garage and do some more work. I have all of the rear sheet metal in place but not in a final fit yet. i won't weld any of it until i fit the new quarter panels.

also where i sectioned the frame rails i am going to weld on reinforcment plates.

[Burn 14]

Nice progress. Keep it up and the pictures coming. Are you keeping the air shocks?

[Junior2561 10]

not sure if i am. the guy i bought the car from had put them on. So i think once i get the body atleast in primer and worked out, then i will attack the suspension. I do not want a raked look, so i don't think i will be keeping them.

[luie1172 10]

Hello- Don`t buy repop metal it won`t fit!!!!!!! I have doors wiyh good skins. I also have some rockers and floor pans and many more parts.

I am also restoring a `69 mach 1.

I am certainly not an expert but maybe we can help each other.

Give me a call 860-670-1107 Thanks Bob

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Don`t buy repop metal it won`t fit!!!!!!!

 

hmm. my car is loaded with repop metal. i believe repop metal can fit and be made to look very close to original.

 

i agree, original rust free metal is better. ...and in many cases, much more expensive or inconvenient to locate.

[Junior2561 10]

hmm. my car is loaded with repop metal. i believe repop metal can fit and be made to look very close to original.

 

i agree, original rust free metal is better. ...and in many cases, much more expensive or inconvenient to locate.

this is true. i would LOVE to use NOS items like rear frame sections, doors, floors etc. but i feel someone doing a numbers match, concours resto is better suited for those items.

 

the repop stuff i am using does need some work, but nothing bad. I think as long as you take your time and fit it all before burning it, you'll be good. Thanks for the offer though Bob.

[Junior2561 10]

The end of November i was sick and then by the time i was feeling well enough to work on the car, the holidays were here.... so i finally got some time to work on the car.

 

The trunk floor is drilled, fit and ready to weld, along with the rear trunk brace. The tail light panel is fit up and the quarters are removed. i have the outer wheel houses removed and found a few areas that will need additional patching, but nothing bad.

 

[Junior2561 10]

I've got the drivers quarter panel and wheel houses all fit up and held together with sheet metal screws. The panels are pre-drilled for spot welds. Next weekend i hope to get the passenger side fit up along with test fitting the fender extensions, trunk, lower valance and rear bumper.

Once i have everything where i like it, the welding will begin.

 

I don't have any pictures today, nothing really too exciting to see untill i get panels fitting back up.

 

on a side note, it was cold as balls outside.....

[Junior2561 10]

Had a chance to get out to the grage this weekend. The schedule is looking more open to have time to work on it too, so expect some more updates.

 

 

Might not look like alot, but the outer wheel house is welded in, the inner wheel house sectioned, and the piece of the rear floor that attached to the inner wheel house is fit up.

The QP skin is tacked up and read to burn, i want to get the other side to the same point, then it will be a welding party :rock:

[Junior2561 10]

not sure where those fire fighter pics came from??? Here is an update though

 

Had a chance to get out to the grage this weekend. The schedule is looking more open to have time to work on it too, so expect some more updates.

 

 

Might not look like alot, but the outer wheel house is welded in, the inner wheel house sectioned, and the piece of the rear floor that attached to the inner wheel house is fit up.

The QP skin is tacked up and read to burn, i want to get the other side to the same point, then it will be a welding party.

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Nice work! :thumbup1:

[Junior2561 10]

Passenger side is all tacd up. Next trip to the garage will involve A LOOOOOOT of welding and grinding...

 

[Rcodenewf 44]

Lookin' Good!! :)

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

don't forget to save enough of the old quarter so you can mark the new quarter with the side marker location.

[Junior2561 10]

don't forget to save enough of the old quarter so you can mark the new quarter with the side marker location.

Good call!

[Junior2561 10]

picked up an OEM hood lastnight for pretty cheap, needs cleaned up and some repair, but for the price i couldn't not get it.