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Print Dad

Master Cylinder trouble - Bummed

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Hello all,

Does anything ever go easy?

 

I have 2 problems and am cold and frustrated.

I am in the process of changing the master cylinder on my 70 Mach 1.

 

Problem #1 - - I bled the master and was attaching the rod to the cylider.

As I pushed on the rod, the little tempered spring broke. This sprint hold the rod into the cylinder.

How the heck can I get a replacement. A few people said leave it out but I don't think that is a good idea.

 

I pulled the rod from the old Master cylinder and it has a nylon clip to hold the

rod into the cylinder. I swapped them but it is not holding fully on the new cylinder. I think it should be changed.

 

 

 

Problem #2 - - The fxxxxx stop light switch. I removed it as directed.

I pulled the wires, tilted it up and slid the assembly towards the driver side and it all come out. Now trying to put it back, I can't get it. It is so tight up there. I was hoping someone could share a trick for getting the switch back in there. Would it help to pull the dash pad? My thinking is that the switch is under the instrument cluster and so the pad is not going to help.

 

So I spent 5 hours trying to swap the master and I am in worse shape than when I started.

 

I really could sue some help on this one. I do have a shop manual and am trying to follow the steps but it is hard to reach the part. I almost thought of dropping the pedal but not sure how to do that either.

 

I am beginning to think I should just not touch things. Worried kinda LOL

 

Any ideas ? - - Thanks - - Print Dad

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I googled '69 Ford master cylinder' and there appears to be rebuild kits available. You might check NAPA, they are sometimes good for this kind of thing. Worst case, a new MC is available. Spending more money is never great I know but it's an out.

 

Working around the pedals or on the heater box on these cars will bring you to tears, I know. It may seem impossible but you will get the brake light switch up in there eventually. I don't know any trick other than perseverance and cussing. Just be careful not to wrench your back. Walk away and try later when it gets too frustrating

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Hello 69RavenConv,

Thanks - -

 

I looked at rebuild kits and they seem to be just the internal parts and not the rod

or spring. I am not sure but I think they would show the new rod or something.

What do you think?

 

As for getting the switch in - - boy I tried a lot today. Worked on her for about

3 hours just on the switch. Now I'm a bit confused are to how the damn thing goes.

I think I have it right and the rod sits between the switch and then there is a nylon washer and a pin.

 

I really don't know if I can get it back in there. I hate to pull things apart but I just am lost. I have quit for today and am going to try to figure out something on the rod

spring. I really think I should fix that for sure.

 

I am glad it is not just me who finds this really tough. I would rather drop in a set of lifters than to work under the dash more. It is tight and tough on the old back at 58.

 

You are right to suggest I let it sit. Thanks - - - Jim

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Hey PD, I'm sure you've thought of this, but pulling the front seat is a great way to free up some room to work. It's terrible taking 3 steps backward for one step forward, but sometimes it's necessary.

 

Do you need a closeup photo of the stop light switch? I can surely get in there and take one for ya.

 

As for the master cylinder, I've got nothing smart to say. Sorry to hear of your troubles today but you will conquer it.

 

Tom

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Yeah, it took me 2 days to get my switch in (thought it would be 20 minutes, ha!). I think there's a nylon washer, then the rod/switch assy, then another nylon washer, then a keeper pin. And a bushing inside the rod.

 

The trick, I recall, was getting the keeper pin inserted without knocking everything loose. All with one hand while laying twisted on your back. If you get the pin lined up and ready to go, then fumble to get the rest of the stuff on, I think it's easier than getting everything on, then fumbling with the pin, if that makes any sense.

 

I considered dropping the pedal, too, but that looked just as bad if not worse to me.

 

I agree about fixing the master cylinder but I don't know what's available. I just bought a new one a couple of years ago for my car. Maybe call a few vendors and see what's out there?? Good luck and hang in there!

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Hey PD, I'm sure you've thought of this, but pulling the front seat is a great way to free up some room to work. It's terrible taking 3 steps backward for one step forward, but sometimes it's necessary.

 

Do you need a closeup photo of the stop light switch? I can surely get in there and take one for ya.

 

As for the master cylinder, I've got nothing smart to say. Sorry to hear of your troubles today but you will conquer it.

 

Tom

Hello Tom,

I am about 90% certain of how the switch goes. However a picture would be VERY helpful just in case.

I don't need it real quick because I gotta get the spring or new master and that will take several 4 days if i have it shipped.

 

If you get a chance it would help. Thanks as always Jim

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I don't know what the spring your looking for is but when I need a spring I go to Ace Hardware and they have pretty much every size I've ever needed, I don't know where your located so it's just a suggestion...

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I don't know what the spring your looking for is but when I need a spring I go to Ace Hardware and they have pretty much every size I've ever needed, I don't know where your located so it's just a suggestion...

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Hello jerry69,

I guess I should have explained a bit better.

It is a "spring clip" and not a traditional spring.

 

It is in the shape of a "C" clip. It fits on the rod and then when inserted

it expands to lock onto the shaft.

 

I may try a few more hardware stores.

 

Thanks - - Print Dad

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Hello jerry69,

I guess I should have explained a bit better.

It is a "spring clip" and not a traditional spring.

 

It is in the shape of a "C" clip. It fits on the rod and then when inserted

it expands to lock onto the shaft.

 

I may try a few more hardware stores.

 

Thanks - - Print Dad

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If u cant get the spring let me know.

I will need a picture to know what your after, but im sure I can get what you need, as we have a mustang only junk yard 10 miles from my house with a very knowledgeable guy there, and I have to make a trip this weekend to get a Hood spring and a set of door hinges, so while im there I can get what ever it is you need, I have no doubt in my mind he has what you need, he has NEVER not had what I was looking for :P

Let me know.

Mike

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If u cant get the spring let me know.

I will need a picture to know what your after, but im sure I can get what you need, as we have a mustang only junk yard 10 miles from my house with a very knowledgeable guy there, and I have to make a trip this weekend to get a Hood spring and a set of door hinges, so while im there I can get what ever it is you need, I have no doubt in my mind he has what you need, he has NEVER not had what I was looking for :P

Let me know.

Mike

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Hey PD, they either call those "E" clips or "C" clips depending on their shape. "E" clips have a little nub right in the middle where the "C" clips are just half-circles.

 

Ace hardware has a large collection of those gizmos. I have to buy several over the years. I don't know if you have Ace out in Beantown, but I'm sure some local HW store will have these. Get several in several sizes as they appear all over these Mustangs.

 

I haven't forgotten about the photo. Tried taking a few yesterday and dang! it's hard to get one in focus in that position. Gonna play with manual focus for a bit before I start my work day.

 

Tom

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Hey PD, they either call those "E" clips or "C" clips depending on their shape. "E" clips have a little nub right in the middle where the "C" clips are just half-circles.

 

Ace hardware has a large collection of those gizmos. I have to buy several over the years. I don't know if you have Ace out in Beantown, but I'm sure some local HW store will have these. Get several in several sizes as they appear all over these Mustangs.

 

I haven't forgotten about the photo. Tried taking a few yesterday and dang! it's hard to get one in focus in that position. Gonna play with manual focus for a bit before I start my work day.

 

Tom

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Hello Tom and the others.

 

I don't want to seem like I am ungrateful but I am not explaining the clips right.

 

The old one on my first Master is neoprene washer. Try to picture a round washer - it slides over the shaft (rod) The washer has a cut out between 5-7 o'clock. This is to allow the washer to contract when inserted into the piston/puck on the master, Once it is inserted, there is a ridge inside the puck and the washer expands up into the ridge, but it hold the rod in place.

 

The second type of clip - - looks like a tiny piece of strapping wire.

It too is like a "O" but has humps ae 3 - 12 - 8 o'clock.

The bottom of the O where the space is can collapse to allow insertion.

Then once the rod is inserted, the clip pops open to the ridge.

 

I am sorry but it is hard to explain. I will take a picture of the broken part when I get home.

 

Thanks to all - -- - Jim

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Hello Tom and the others.

 

I don't want to seem like I am ungrateful but I am not explaining the clips right.

 

The old one on my first Master is neoprene washer. Try to picture a round washer - it slides over the shaft (rod) The washer has a cut out between 5-7 o'clock. This is to allow the washer to contract when inserted into the piston/puck on the master, Once it is inserted, there is a ridge inside the puck and the washer expands up into the ridge, but it hold the rod in place.

 

The second type of clip - - looks like a tiny piece of strapping wire.

It too is like a "O" but has humps ae 3 - 12 - 8 o'clock.

The bottom of the O where the space is can collapse to allow insertion.

Then once the rod is inserted, the clip pops open to the ridge.

 

I am sorry but it is hard to explain. I will take a picture of the broken part when I get home.

 

Thanks to all - -- - Jim

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Hey Jim, the pictures I took were mostly awful. This is the only one that even looks close to reality, so I imagine it's not going to help you too much. But what the heck, here it is.

 

Working in that position for more than a few minutes is just horrendous. I hope you dropped the pedal or took out the front seat.

 

Tom

 

[ATTACH]6063[/ATTACH]

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Hey Jim, the pictures I took were mostly awful. This is the only one that even looks close to reality, so I imagine it's not going to help you too much. But what the heck, here it is.

 

Working in that position for more than a few minutes is just horrendous. I hope you dropped the pedal or took out the front seat.

 

Tom

 

[ATTACH]6063[/ATTACH]

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First on all yes you do need the retaining clip they do not sell or make them separately at any parts store so you would have to order one off the inter net. As for the brake light switch it sounds like you have the wrong push rod for the master so I would say to measure your old and new one and compare mine was 1/4" off and the pedal was 2" higher then normal and could get the switch back on either so I would say just buy a whole new push rod and retaining clip

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First on all yes you do need the retaining clip they do not sell or make them separately at any parts store so you would have to order one off the inter net. As for the brake light switch it sounds like you have the wrong push rod for the master so I would say to measure your old and new one and compare mine was 1/4" off and the pedal was 2" higher then normal and could get the switch back on either so I would say just buy a whole new push rod and retaining clip

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Hello Tom,

Thanks for the picture. it sure is tight up there as you can tell.

 

I a,m attaching a picture of the pain clip.

 

I got one from a rebuilt master and I should be good.

 

Thanks fro all the help and picture - - Jim

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Hello Tom,

Thanks for the picture. it sure is tight up there as you can tell.

 

I a,m attaching a picture of the pain clip.

 

I got one from a rebuilt master and I should be good.

 

Thanks fro all the help and picture - - Jim

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