MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 4, 2010 (edited) Well guys, We ripped the whole quarter panel off of my 69 MAch 1 This past weekend, and are fabbing up a few pieces that were rusted out. We decided to shoot a video of the progress as we did the repair, but we did not start with step one. Instead we skipped some of the stuff we considered Simplistic of easy to do crap because we figured if you were man enough to tackle a project of this magnitude, you should know most of the tools you would need and how to use them, so we left these parts out LOL Anyhow here is a link on youtube to the First and second videos...dont have the 3rd, 4th and so on up there yet. Leme know what you think. Mike Edited January 21, 2010 by MikeStang Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Legion 10 Report post Posted January 5, 2010 Good stuff, pointing out the difficult spots is a plus for anyone who hasn't replaced a full quarter panel. What exactly did you use the multi-master tool for? Maybe I missed it in the video. I've used them to remove tile and cut door molding when laying tile, but never on a car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox 10 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 Talk about on time!!! I'm about to tackle this in the next 2 weeks. Good job. Keep them comming!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 7, 2010 Legion, I used the Multi tool to hack the quarter panel up into 4 pieces LOL. I used the little half moon metal cutting blade and it cut through it like butta lol. I dont know that you can get that panel off in one piece with all the places you have to bust it loose. Fox, before you order your quarter panel check to see if the wheel well is gone and the trunk drop off as well. Also dont forget there is a piece that welds to the tail panel that has a tendancy to rust out as well...its right under the end cap...mine has holes in 3 places, but it can be fixed and I dont want to remove it because I would end up destroying the tail panel getting it loose...I work fast but not cautiousley so I have a tendancy to tear panel up getting them off. LOL....I will shoot another video tomorrow and point out a few of the areas of concern again...We put the trunk drop off on the car tonight as well as rebuilt t he door hinges on one side, and drilled out some rust and did more rust prep. I ordered the rear valance and it should be here Friday, and friday night we will install the Quarter and weld it into place and close that chapter. I figure with one guy doing it, it should take about 2 good weekends if you have never done it...We have spent about 32 total hours on it so far and its still not on, but we also sanded the entire back side, and put POR 15 on it, and a bunch of other misc crap LOL. I will get you more info as it is avaliable. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fastwayfirebird400 14 Report post Posted January 11, 2010 Are you using the dynacorn quarters ? if so are the studs present for the round running horse emblem that goes on the quarter. What other metal will you be replacing at the back half of the car ? I have a quarter to install as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 12, 2010 dynacorn quarter don't have the studs for the emblem nor do they have the studs for the window trim. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 12, 2010 Fast, Demon is correct, the Dynacorn Quarters do not come with the studs made into the panel for the emblem on the side, nor do they come with the studs in the window channel for the moldings to clip on to. I need to call and see if there are replacement studs you can buy that either weld on or some type of stud that just screws into the panels. In the rear of the car on that side I also replaced the Trunk drop off pan, along with about 6 inches of the lower wheel house....I could have just bought a lower patch for the wheelhouse, but it was cheeper and easier for me to just fab one up out of some 16g sheet metal I use for patches. Well it ws definately cheeper to fab the part, but bending that 16G to the right shape is a Pain in the Potatoes for sure. Aside from those two panels, I had to weld in some other assorted rusted holes as well. I should have just replaced the whole rear tail light panel since it had 3 holes in it as well \, but that would have mandated I cut it loose from the other GOOD side quarter panel, and I didnt want to go through that headache. It seems like every time I remove a panel from another one that has rust in it, there is always a quanity of rust between the panels that you will NEVER be able to get all the way out unless you replace the panel, and this being said makes me wonder really when some one says they have a RUST FREE FULLY RESTORED CAR, how rust free and restored is it really, I mean after all, unless they remove EVERY WELDED PANEL, there is NO WAY that the car is rust free, and at some point in time the car will develope cancer.......with as far as my car is going down I am hoping to get about another 20 years out of it before i have visable rust...hopefully lol. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 12, 2010 mikestang, why do you use 16 gauge for patchwork when the original metal was 19/20 gauge? shaping and cutting 16 gauge sucks. you probably had an entire quarter panel as scrap 20 gauge steel :tongue_smilie: they sell the weldable studs used for the emblem and window trim. however it requires a special stud gun. i believe other people have alternate techniques. mikestang and fastwayfirebird, you should fill in your location. i've offered my stud gun for temporary use before to those who live in the area.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 19, 2010 I located and ordered some screw in type studs...I suppose I will see what they are and if they are worth a crap here in a day or so. They were 6 bucks for 10 and the shipping was 10 bucks, LOL so 16.00 total....I live in Louisiana By the way. If that stud gun is avaliable and I see I need it :P Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) Fast, It seems like every time I remove a panel from another one that has rust in it, there is always a quanity of rust between the panels that you will NEVER be able to get all the way out unless you replace the panel, and this being said makes me wonder really when some one says they have a RUST FREE FULLY RESTORED CAR, how rust free and restored is it really, I mean after all, unless they remove EVERY WELDED PANEL, there is NO WAY that the car is rust free, and at some point in time the car will develope cancer.......with as far as my car is going down I am hoping to get about another 20 years out of it before i have visable rust...hopefully lol. Mike Boy, are you on the mark with that paragraph. I bought my 70 a little over a year ago. I knew there was some rust. So I figured I'd just replace a few pieces and I'd be home free. Not! Good example was the radiator core support. I knew I was going to replace both the fender apron/shocktower assemblies with the Dynacorn pieces. My core support and it's cross member seemed ok. So I drilled out the spot welds and got the trusty air chisel out to separate the pieces. And voila! The core support crossmember started cracking apart with big rust cracks and holes. So I ended up replacing all that. Same story with my floor supports on the front of the pan. They looked ok untill I went to separate them from the front frame rails. They then just started disintegrating. January 2009 My next steel work is going to be both my rear quarters. I'm going to do full quarters as the car was in an accident sometime in it's past and I can see holes from a dent puller and bondo on the inside up high on one of the quarters. Along with this will be a new 1 piece trunk floor/transition pan and new wheel houses. I know my rear frame rails are ok (I had to section the rear half of both of them where they always rust out) and my taillight panel is new. So by the time I'm done with this car every thing will be new steel except for the roof, cowl and door frame areas. Thanks for the info on the quarter replacement. That's in my near future. I really look forward to sweeping up the piles of rust, dirt, and bondo off the garage floor again! Edited January 24, 2010 by maxum96 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 19, 2010 Yeah I know the feeling...I had same problem with the core support....I cut the front lower cross member off and my core support was rusty in one corner, and POP it came loose from the inner apron on the battery side, which I was replacing next, so I replaced the apron, then fabbed up a piece where the core support had fallen apart and welded it up....I have also noticed rusted holes in my Front window channel, up high at the top which im now in the process of replacing. There was alot of bondo on my roof, but no visable dents or holes on the inside.....But once I removed the bondo I can se how wavy the roof is....I have considered replacing it just to get the rust out of the A Pillars and be sure there is nothing in there. My solution was to spray POR 15 down in the pillars till it ran out the bottom.....I love that stuff.....I had the car blasted underneath and under the hood and in the trunk, then applied POR 15 to everything....only problem is now I have to rough up the surface to put the Lizard Skin under the car and apply another coat of POR 15 under the hood. And you wana talk about a PITA, that stuff is damn near bullet proof....I pounded on some wavy metal on one of my aprons to straighten it out and i could not beat the stuff off the metal..I LOVE IT. Anyhow i plan on painting under the hood with it again to get the orange peel and trash out I had on the first go around....Im going for the SHINY black under the hood, not the flat you guys seem to love LOL Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 21, 2010 Ok I am putting up a few more videos. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 21, 2010 Ok I got 9 Videos up on youtube now, and the quarter is not back on yet LOL we are doing it this weekend, but you can see some of the other stuff. Click on my profile that is associated with the links and you can see all nine of them. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LynnBob Mustang 10 Report post Posted January 24, 2010 What kind of respirator is being used to clean off the lead? I'm doing a '65 coupe so I will use your videos as a semi guide to do so. Lynn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted January 24, 2010 What kind of respirator is being used to clean off the lead? I'm doing a '65 coupe so I will use your videos as a semi guide to do so. Lynn I wondered that when I watched the first video... the camera guy talking is obviously not wearing any! You should have a dust filter and a lead filter. 3m makes one called a P100 that is asbestos, cadmium and lead I believe. However, carbon monoxide can also be given off when melting lead so if I HAVE to do it, I do it outside. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 24, 2010 i didn't wear a respirator. i really didn't see much smoke if any at all. i work in the electronics industry where we have bowls of tin/lead mix melting at all times with technicians performing a lot of hand assembly with the stuff. i do condone safety but very limited exposure isn't going to take years off your life. living in a city, sitting in traffic or smoking habitually does much more damage than the 10 minutes it takes to melt the lead off. just my opinion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 24, 2010 I'm with Buckeye, we did not use respirators, but considered it. We then came to the conclusion that with the limited exposure it wouldn't be an issue. Not to mention as state above, there was little to no smoke. When I was a kid, we melted lead all the time to make weights and I'm still here. (But my wife says there is something wrong with me, so....) Do as I should and not as I do. Oh yeah, by the way, I got Chip Foose's signature today on my quarter panel that I removed. Ha Ha! Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox 10 Report post Posted January 29, 2010 Where did you find the screw in studs?? Looking for some myself. Did they work ok?? Good vids too!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 29, 2010 The studs that I recieved were not studs at all. They are freking little pop rivets. I need to call MU and ask how the hell they think these things will work, You would have to drill the hole and install the rivet but not push it in all the way and then rivet it and hope you had it right. I think its crap, probably going to return them. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox 10 Report post Posted January 31, 2010 I recon these would do it http://shop.stevescamaroparts.com/67-69-Camaro-window-molding-clip-repair-studs-each-210861.htm but the buggars want the world to post me some to Australia!! Only want a dozen same as these?? http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/4_24_X_3_8_Stainless_Steel_Special_Phillips_Flat_p/a9877.htm Do not know why the diff in price?? but I would have the cheap ones thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 1, 2010 Well fox, I called Mustangs Unlimited, and they said ohh were sorry we sent u the wrong stuff LOL, they posted a credit to my account and sent me the right studs and clips, which I should see in a day or so, when they get here I will post up pics for ya,,,,,I could take the extras I will have and send them to you, shouldnt cost that much just to send them via US postal svc snail mail....leme get them in and see how many I need ...think I only need like 5 of them up the quarter, but need to be sure, they are supposed to be screw in. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox 10 Report post Posted February 1, 2010 Cheers, No rush, see how you go. I can do paypal if you want Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 2, 2010 no problem Fox, Ill let ya know, and paypal is fine. I will let you know when I have them and if they work LOL Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 2, 2010 no problem Fox, Ill let ya know, and paypal is fine. I will let you know when I have them and if they work LOL Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1952 10 Report post Posted April 13, 2010 You are doing a Great Job of Detailing the replacement I am planing on putting fastback quarters on a coupe and your videos are very helpful Thank you 1952 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
