New mustang owner looking for advice...

[Stigg 10]

Hey gang,

 

Just got a '69 mustang coupe, a car I've been wanting for about a decade, but just recently got the money and a place to work on one. It's my first musclecar, and I get a warm, fuzzy feeling every time I look at her, but she needs a lot of work, and I'm looking for some advice on where to start.

 

First off, no collision damage that I can see, but the driver side floorpan is really rusty, as is the trunk. The paint is cracking on the driver's rear quater, where it looks like someone slapped on a bunch of bondo. Paint is also blistering on the lower rear corners of both doors. Are there any other common rust areas I need to check on for this car?

 

She's got a 351C 2v and a C6 that a previous owner has given a rebuild and a mild upgrade. Edelbrock carb and intake, MSD distributor, coil, and 6AL ignition box. I've not heard a stock 351C to compare it to, but I believe it's also got a mild cam in it too.

 

She's a manual steering and brake car, and from what I could see, was a low-option model. No factory air, etc. The interior is complete except for the headliner, but in rough shape.

 

So, I'm assumeing the best place to start working on her is the body work. I can TIG weld fairly well, but I've never re-skinned a car before, and I don't have my own equipment to do the work. Do you think I should take it to a shop to have it done, or just drive it as is untill I can afford to get the welder and parts to do it myself?

 

Also, on the interior, it really needs the whole thing to be redone, and I was thinking that since I am gonna be gutting and refitting it anyways, that I'd do a higher trim level on her insides. If I wanted to do a Boss style interior, like the one here(( http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/9307089+w750+st0/0708_mufp_06_z+1969_mustang_boss302+interior.jpg )) is there anything special I would need to order, as far as interior parts go?

 

Finally, anything in particular about the drivetrain in this car I should be aware of? I'm eventually wanting to make it a good daily driver that can take some dragstrip blasts on the weekends. I've heard a lot of folks say that making them into a 408 really makes the motor come alive. I'm wanting something that is torquey and fun for around town more than anything else.

 

Anyways, any help would be appreciated, and I'll try and get some pix of her up soon.

Edited December 27, 2009 by Stigg

[02Lightning 10]

Well for one 69's did not come with Cleveland’s, they came with Winsor’s only. 70's came with either motor. And I think I would do the body my self, just do your homework.

[S code 69 13]

I would pull the motor and strip the car to a rolling shell, then strip it to bare metal this has to be done anyway so just get it over and then you'll know excatly where you're at.

[foothilltom 33]

Welcome Stigg. Photos are always a great idea when seeking advice like this. When I was doing my first coupe (my boy's that he drives every dang day now!) I was panic-stricken when I saw a rusty floor pan. I posted a picture to this forum and was talked off the ledge quite quickly when I realized how mild my problem was compared to others.

 

That said, I'd be most concerned about rusty frame rails as I'm guessing your coupe sat outside for a good portion of its life.

 

You'll find the guys here know their crap. Stripping the coupe down to a rolling shell is excellent advice as you'll know where you stand with the rust.

 

I agree the deluxe interior is good stuff. I put that in my boy's coupe. If you don't have it, get yourself the Ford shop manuals in print or CD. Take a lot of pictures and label the stuff you remove. Separate your little parts into labeled containers (baggies, tupperware, whatever). You'll save a lot of heartache when you go to reassemble.

 

If you're like me, you'll post 90% questions and 10% answers for others, but thank god for the other guys on this forum. Good luck.

 

Tom

[ccobra70 10]

I would really consider 2 things first as far as where you want your car to be, first is do you want a daily driver that looks good but not over the top, or do you want a really nice sunday driver that sees shows on the weekend and some dragstrip, or just a full out drag car, after that see what your budget is, I would say you could learn to do most of the work on your own and save. but if I would quess it would cost about 10 to15k to have a nice daily driver, going back mostly stock doing it yourself, if you want to get most of it done for you and go most stock it would prob. cost 30k if you want a really nice car show or sunday car you could spend prob 30k stock doing it yourself and 50-70k if you really want to start modifiying everthing and have it done, so think of what your goal is and budget and go for it, post pics when you can I love to see these car being done congrats on your new project!!

[428scj 10]

Regardless of which way you are going.If its got rust you are going to find a lot more which is hidden.I always regardless of condition rip it down to a shell to see whats been done on a 40 year old car.Ive had to undo some unsafe restoration work in the past that people had done so they could get it on the road fast.Take your time and document the teardown with photos and label and ziplock all parts.Inspect them and see if they ar reusable.If not put it on a replace list so at the time you putting it all back together your not searching for parts and holding your project up.This site and the 428 forums are full of info and great people willing to help with problems.Enjoy

[RogerC 136]

She's got a 351C 2v and a C6 that a previous owner has given a rebuild and a mild upgrade. Edelbrock carb and intake, MSD distributor, coil, and 6AL ignition box. I've not heard a stock 351C to compare it to, but I believe it's also got a mild cam in it too.

 

Like Lightning said, they didn't come with 351Cs. That's not to say it doesn't have one now. My 69 had a 351W in it when I bought it. It was the 3rd motor that I knew of. The previous motor was the 351C 2V from my Gran Torino Sport that I sold to a previous owner. Anyhow, those not in the know don't always know the differences between the 2 and assume all 351s are clevelands much the same way they think all 302s are Boss 302s. There are differences and they may affect the parts you may need. Just make sure you know what you actually have. If it is a 351C, just remember that for engine parts that interface with the car, buy for a 70 mustang.

[Stigg 10]

It's a 351C 2v engine out of another car, yea. As for what I'm looking to do with it, mostly I am looking for a daily driver. I've got nothing against trailer queens, but half the fun of having a musclecar is driving it!

 

The main reason I was looking at the 408 stroker kit is the potential for gobs of power at a more 'streetable' rev range. Idle to 5500 or something similar. Folks have told me that the Cleveland is more of a top end motor, but I also hear that high revs is more the realm of the 4v motor. If any Cleveland experts want to lend me their advice on a good street build, I'm eager to listen.

 

When it comes to taking the car down to a shell and having it redone, is there any steps I can take to make it go smoother? I.E. can I unbolt the front subframe, and wheel the front clip sans bodywork away, leaving it as an assembled engine/suspension unit? Or are there things that will prevent that?

 

Again, any advice you can give is great. This is my first real project, and I'm hopeing to avoid any major pitfalls.

[RogerC 136]

You'll find some good info here:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/

 

A solid mild build will do fine on a driver. The 351C is no slouch in the low end despite public perception of some non-351C enthusiasts and the chevy crowd. Also an ongoing rift between Windsor fans and Cleveland fans. Though its no slouch in the low end, it really performs in the top end due to the heads hence the reputation as a top end motor. My 351C 4V has a 750 vac secondary holley on an offy 360 intake, a NAPA version of a factory high performance cam (290 duration & .509 lift) and hooker long tubes. It has a slight lopey idle. The power band starts about 2500 and, IIRC, goes to 6500 or so. Its plenty powerful for street use.

[Max Power 74]

My blunt advice? Save the drive train to build into one you want, and find yourself a nice clean body shell from the desert. Doing rust right and paint right, you could easily have 20k into the body alone. Then you get started on the interior and suspension.

 

Since this car doesn't really have any sentimental value, you will spend 5 times what it is worth to make it right, and there is no reason to do that.

 

Find yourself a rust free grande shell with a decent interior. That way you get deluxe interior bits, usually power steering and brakes, and the 69 coupes are not very expensive even in decent shape.

 

I love the 69 coupes, but not many do, and the resale on them is pretty low. You could go out and get a real nice car for 10 grand and not lose a ton of money on it.

 

Probably not what you want to hear, but that is the market on these things.

[stangme428 33]

my 2C - just remember ... its all in what you want - if you want to take what you have and rebuild it yourself -- go for it. if you want to pay someone to do it.. cool. just know that if you are building it to sell to someone, stay on your budget and market value limits.

 

if you are building it for you and never intend on getting all of your money back out of it - build what you want - do what you want with it... i dont plan on getting the money i put in my car back out of it ... i dont plan on selling it. if it happens one day for whatever reason .. someone will get a great deal, unless the market for modified coupes goes nutts... :tongue_smilie:

 

i plan on driving mine as much as possible and to be just a little bit different when and where i can afford it...:biggrin:

 

i already have a 4 link picked out for my next mod and i have not driven my new suspension yet... :scared:

 

its a great hobby!!!

[flight96 14]

+1 on what stangme428 said !!:thumbup1: