advice on purchasing out of state cars

[Wade 10]

Hi group,

I had been posting in regards to a mach 1 I was considering buying, thanks to the advice here I did not get it. But I have been having to look farther away to find 69 mach 1's.

 

How can I protect myself when buying a car unseen, in another state from craigslist?

 

I've most recently been looking at this one:

http://differentdrum.org/mustang/midwest-car/index.htm

He wants $9,000 for it. He says it is a daily driver, just passed state inspection, had new exhaust and a tune up done. But as the photos indicate there is a fair amount of rust. It is a M code car with factory AT, PS, PB.

 

He did not know what rearend is in it or how to tell what it is supposed to have factory. It is the best priced daily driver I've seen so far.

 

Is this a fair price and what are the steps if I want to buy it and have it shipped?

 

This one looks very nice, it is on a car lot on the east coast and they are not open until Tuesday. So I'll call tomorrow for more details:

http://differentdrum.org/mustang/eastcoast/index.htm

 

Thanks for all the input so far!

Wade

Edited December 15, 2009 by Wade

[S code 69 13]

I don't know about that second one, but the first one's rust would send me off screaming like my teeth were on fire. people from the rust belt import our cars we don't bring theirs here, be VERY careful.

 

Buying out of state is no big deal, just make sure it has a clear title or in the case of some states that the car checks out as a valid ownership. when I bought my 67 GTO from Alabama it had no title, AL had no titles on anything in those days, so I took a bill of sale to our DMV and with some paperwork got a clear Oregon title for it.

[Jayru 17]

Yes, do be careful!

 

I bought a "daily driver" that was supposedly all rebuilt and good to go. The pictures looked great and the owner seemed honest/knowledgeable. I flew 1500 miles to get it and drive it home. 30 min after purchase i was dead on the side of the road!

 

Almost 2 years later and many $$$ it's almost finished.

 

I would not buy a car sight unseen off the internet. If you do... shipping's the way to go, definitely don't try and drive a car you don't know home (i learned the hard way). If you find something you like, get a round trip airfare and fly there to see it in person. If it looks good, buy it and have it shipped to you.

 

The cost of a plane ticket far outweighs the potential thousands of dollars you could need to spend on unforeseen problems with an unknown car!

 

Don't make the same mistake i did!

[Wade 10]

LOL, "teeth on fire"!!

What a mental image.

 

Thanks for the advice, I can see bondo cracking away on that car. It is a good price and all the decent ones are out of my budget. I've been looking at ebays section on previously posted 1969 mustangs and most of them are not selling. Folks are asking too much on their reserve. And I here some folks say they are asking a certain amount based on what they see them on ebay for. What they don't see is that they are not selling at those ridiculously high prices.

 

The ideal purchase would be a daily driver that I can work on and fix up over time.

[S code 69 13]

You'll find what you're looking for, I've been where you are and sometimes it seems hopeless but it's a buyers market so hold out for what you want.

 

If you buy a wreck or a rust bucket you'll regret it , take my word for it. give serious thought to buying a little nicer car than you set out to even if you have to get a loan, you're going to buy parts or make payments, in the end it all nets out the same and you have a nicer car in the mean time.

[MAD IN NC 21]

First Don't be afraid to ask here for help.... If one of us is nearby we might even be able to look at it for you. Use the Member Mapper for locations.

 

Second if you buy sight unseen - buyer beware! Go find a Hemmings magazine or look on line for an inspection company. A Pre Purchase Inspection (PPI) is cheap insurance

 

http://www.jdpower.com/autos/articles/used-car-pre-purchase-inspection

[69RavenConv 286]

Like S-Code said, it's a buyers market, so keep looking. That first car is salvageable (I hope someone does) but the $9K price is gonna skyrocket when you start replacing sheet metal and repairing everything that's worn out .

 

In that price range, you might look for somebody that's given up on a restoration they've started. Chances are they've already repaired the sheet metal, or rebuilt the engine, or any number of high priced repairs already.

 

I know you're looking for a driver but you may come out ahead buying an already-started project and finishing it off.

 

And like Mad said, ask here if you see one, chances are somebody is close enough to go check it out in person for you.

[Wade 10]

Thanks for the advice, I think I could go up to 16 or 17k for a nice driver. I prefer a mach 1 351 m code or big block car with factory disc brakes, ps and ac. I'll take a look at the member mapper section, anyone near Richmond, Virginia?.

I'd do likewise for someone else. Of course I'm not as knowledgeable yet but I can photograph a car in detail and get videos.

Someone told me to wait until April and check out the Portland car show, I would have assumed that prices are higher at a car show?

[S code 69 13]

You mean the April swap meet? I go to it every year, don't count of finding much there.

 

In that price range you'll have plenty to chose from. watch cars you like on ebay and when they don't sell contact the seller and tell him you're interesterd at the right price. that's how most cars on ebay get sold, then you have time to go take a look if you can agree on a price range worth your time to look.

[Wade 10]

Yes the April swap meet, I've never been. One of the things I liked about ebay motors is they say there is a buyers protection program with each purchase.

I'll consider my options when the time comes to buy one. It might be worth a round trip flight out and then have it shipped.

there are a few nice ones on ebay right now. I like the green s-code but it does not have the fold down rear seat. I thought all the mach 1's had a fold down rear seat?

[S code 69 13]

No , most of them I've seen don't have the fold down but you can add it if you want to spend some money.

 

Watch autabuy and collectorcartraderonline too if you aren't already.

[69cobraman 10]

Hey there Wade, I know the abouts of that east coast car you were looking at. The place that has it also sells parts and has a junkyard in back. Parts are higher than anywhere else that I have found. Have seen several of there cars for sale at shows and they might have driven there but???????. I myself don't really know if I would buy one there. Probably have to take completly apart and go through it. I have two 69's, one is a 428 Cobra Jet that came from Oregon by the way of Ebay and the other is a Boss 302. Talk to them tomarrow and see what they have to say, then post it. Good Luck

[coz 108]

FYI - the engine in the 1st one is not original. It looks to be a Cleveland 351 4V. An M code just not the right year/engine. I would run not walk away from the 1st one. The second one has promise.

 

If you find a car in the area (MD/DE/VA/PA) I'd be willing to take a ride to look at it for you. Not much going on around here once winter sets in. I have a mustang travel kit (code info, magnet, scrapers, etc....) that I used to find mine.

 

I agree with what most are telling you - it's a waiting game and don't settle. It took me two years to find my car and I looked every day. Even settled on a 68 GT FB but it was sold out from under me. One day I found my car and to my surprise it was 20 miles away. It was listed on a Wed and I bought it on a Friday (after driving and going over it).

Edited December 15, 2009 by coz

[Fordrevhead 29]

I see a ton of Mustangs in Oregon on ebay! For $9k you can get a lot more car than that first one, Mach or not. As far as "daily driver" goes, if the underneath looks anything like the quarters and rockers and such I wouldnt want to drive it much anyway. Best of luck and patience will pay off in the long run on such a buy.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

I have to agree with the keep looking posts here.

After looking at MANY cars over a 3 year period,

I found a really good deal on my 70 Mach1.

90% orig sheetmetal and 0 rust Calif car so it was well worth the wait.

[Wade 10]

Thanks for the advice, the car in Richmond is at a "Mustang/Camaro" lot called Old Dominion. I usually ignore any being sold by a dealer and it seems I should in this case too. It doesn't surprise me. Any auto dealer is out to make a quick buck and they cover up a lot of problems.

 

Unfortunately there are no 1969 mustangs for sale in Oregon on Ebay. I'll keep checking. I have found craigslook.com and hankshelper.com very useful!

Edited December 16, 2009 by Wade

[Wade 10]

What would a car like this be worth:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-428-CJ-1969-FORD-428-J-CJ-ENGINE-RAM-AIR-MUSTANG-ORG-OWNER_W0QQitemZ330387471036QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item4ceca0babc

 

Anyone have any idea as to when good time to buy would be? Someone told me to wait until end of Jan or early Feb. because prices seem to be better during that time?

[S code 69 13]

Can you say rebody? a complete color change, an interior color change, a transmission change and a big block to small block change, all possible but very unlikely. I'd have to see what's stamped under those fenders before I'd buy it.

 

If it's an R code probably more than you have said you wanted to spend, if it's a rebody I'd guess less than 10k, and if the rust is worse than the pictures show quite a bit less.

 

I've never seen any time that's better than the other, the time to buy is when the seller needs the money and wants to sell what you're looking for.

[Wade 10]

Well I just checked the guys feedback. I wouldn't buy from him unless I was local and could inspect the car. You're right I would guess might be worth $7k max just for an original 428 CJ car. But I just checked on period correct 428 engines and that alone will put this car way over budget considering additional costs of potentially rusted out floor pans etc...

My wife is getting a bit nervous when I look at cars that need a lot of work. She prefers I get a running driving car that could be driven and restored in stages. And she said "no donor cars". So I'll keep looking :)

Edited December 16, 2009 by Wade

[Wade 10]

Oh yeah the other criteria my wife had was to get something that could be sold easily for at least what I paid for it. Doesn't want to have a loss if we need to sell it.

 

I was thinking about the idea someone mentioned previously of getting a loan. The concept of paying on a loan instead of buying parts. If I did that it opens up a lot of options. One of which is this big block car here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Mustang-Mach1-S-Code-390-4v-V8_W0QQitemZ300377785965QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item45efe9466d

It is a 390 but states it is a matching numbers car. One problem is that it is not original paint color and there are spots of paint bubbling. Is that car worth the 22k he's asking? I would also have to consider the total cost of purchase, another $1k for shipping, and the cost of paying someone to inspect it before I buy it.

What would a good paint job cost? Assuming minimal body work required.

Thanks! Wade

[JTG 10]

I'd pass on this car. With the additional money you need to spend I'd expect it to be in better condition with the original color. The bottom of the front seats don't look correct either. I would think for $22 grand the interior would be in better shape.

 

Also, what's up with the flywheel. Should it be that low and uncovered?

[coz 108]

I don't know - maybe it's worth 22k. I bet it sells.... The good thing is this is a "workable" car meaning you could drive it and restore it at the same time. Yes, the seats look wrong and the interior needs replacing and there is some rust but for a 40 year old mildly restored car, it's in good shape. Some things I would question are 2k exhaust price and the period correct engine statement. There's no way there is 2k in the exhaust - hell it still has manifolds. I have FPA ceramic coated headers and a Magnaflow Stainless Steel 2.5" X pipe exhaust and all told it cost less that $1,200.

 

But to answer your other question - a loan is an good alternative to buying a wreck and rebuilding if you can afford it. It's a bit like pay me now or pay me later - either way you will be spending the money. I went the loan way simply because I wanted an immediate driver that required little to make it continue to run as I collected parts to make it a Pro-tour type vehicle. Plus I took out a home equity loan so I'm writing off my interest. 3 payments left - yea!!!!!

 

I'd say a rough guess to make it near perfect it would cost you another 20k in parts and paint. But haven't you been seeing 69 S codes going for high 30's? So maybe that is a good price.....

Edited December 16, 2009 by coz

[S code 69 13]

The seats have the wrong covering for sure, but they look like the right seats, steering wheel of course , engine bay needs detailed with correct valve covers, put the coil where it belongs and that sort of thing. the hood pins are in the wrong place, that's strange why anyone would do that, but it can be fixed when it's painted.

 

Decent car and I bet it could be bought for less, it would be hard to pass in the 18-19 range if it's no worse than the pictures show. isn't that color black jade? I think the bright sunlight makes it look more green.

[JTG 10]

I didn't even notice the hood pins, weird. Seems like a lot of work to put them in the wrong spot like that.

[69RavenConv 286]

For $22K, you might take a look at wantahertzdonut's car. He just re-listed it this month on Cleveland Craig's list, and he's a member here. (I don't know the guy, nor have I ever seen his car; but it looks superior to the 390 you linked)

 

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1498388962.html

 

Here's the original listing here on 69stang.com:

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=6246&highlight=mach