How is the roof skin secured along the drip rails?

[helrazr70 10]

I know the roof skin is attached in the windshield and back window channels with spotwelds, but...

 

...how is the skin attached alond the sides along the drip rails and 1/4 window? Is it spotwelded? crimped? continuous weld?

 

I have seen others say that they just used a grinder and ground the edges until they got rid of that layer.

 

My roof skin was shot and I trimmed the center away and will start soon on removing the edges so that I will be able to install a new roof skin.

 

(My car had a vinyl roof and the ENTIRE roof rusted out--but luckily my drip rails, support structure, and A pillars were spared)

 

http://my.picresize.com/GL8XIDUX39

 

Any ideas or pics?

[rusty428cj 14]

We replaced the roof skin on a 67 Camaro and spot welded the windshield and back glass area and than used panel adhesive in the drip rail area. 3m 8115 works good but you need a caulking gun made for it.

[rd49221 14]

FWIW, I worked at a Ford plant in the 70's, (not mustangs) but they were all spot welded in the drip rail and then a "caulk" was run down the drip rail on top of the spot welds.

[helrazr70 10]

FWIW, I worked at a Ford plant in the 70's, (not mustangs) but they were all spot welded in the drip rail and then a "caulk" was run down the drip rail on top of the spot welds.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

Once I remove the stainless drip moldings I will try to grind down and see if I can locate the spotwelds if they are there. I was assuming that there would be spotwelds in the drip channel, but have never seen any. (never looked) I will keep the thread updated with my findings.

[69RestoRod 10]

On the topside of the driprail is where you'll find the seam sealer. Just checked my coupe since I removed the sealer mine with a wire wheel and the stop welds are obvious and all over. Counted around 80 on the driver's side.

[helrazr70 10]

On the topside of the driprail is where you'll find the seam sealer. Just checked my coupe since I removed the sealer mine with a wire wheel and the stop welds are obvious and all over. Counted around 80 on the driver's side.

 

That explains why I read a couple of times that they ground off that layer! I really don't feel like drilling out 160+ spotwelds and then having to weld up 160 drill holes from the spotweld cutter. My old spotburr1000 is about shot and my roto-broaches require grinding anyway. I will probably just expose the welds and then grind through them with a cutoff wheel.

 

Upon reassembly I will plug weld the windshield and back glass channels and maybe a couple of spots along the driprails--AFTER laying down a healthy bead of panel bonding adhesive along the driprails. I would rather bond the edges than weld since rust has already been an issue and the glue will also seal the area. I need to avoid high heat and bare metal anywhere I can to prevent future rust issues.

[Fordrevhead 29]

this is why a used roof is so much better than a skin! I have a spare kicking around.

[helrazr70 10]

this is why a used roof is so much better than a skin! I have a spare kicking around.

 

The sad part is that I had a spare good roof also that I cut off a parts car years ago... Before my grandfather died he asked my cousin to haul off all the "junk" from the barns. My cousin thought everything was junk and I lost a 69 fastback roof, fenders, doors, and trunklid along with many other 69/70 Mustang parts including 2 sets of C9 351W heads and a freshly machined C9 351W block/crank.

 

The other sad thing is that I was just in NJ all last week for vacation. We went to Wildwood for a week.

 

How much are you looking to get out of the roof? (Are you willing to sell it?) I am supposed to go back to Tarrytown/White Plains again for work for 2 weeks in October.

[Fordrevhead 29]

well that's close to 400 miles away! I have NYS registration and matching vin and door tags so that makes it a little more valuable to me than "just a skin."

[helrazr70 10]

Wow! I didn't think NY was even 400 miles wide!

 

I have a VIN and buck tag from a M code Mach 1 that was Candy Apple Red that I may eventually use. I sold the remnants of that rusty body for scrap metlal in 1992. I still need to get a title for these tags though.

[Fordrevhead 29]

I google mapped it, it's actually 300 miles due NORTH. I was thinking 4 hours when I wrote 400 miles. Google maps says 4 hours 40 minutes as you spend almost an hour getting out of the city.

 

My house to Jamestown (south of Buffalo) pretty much a diagonal across the state... that's 500 miles.

Edited September 1, 2009 by Fordrevhead

[PennStateStang 11]

I know the roof skin is attached in the windshield and back window channels with spotwelds, but...

 

Newbie question, whats a roof skin? Second question, how should I go about removing a vinyl top? Rust has started to discolor mine and push up on the vinyl, so it has to come off eventually.

[69RestoRod 10]

Newbie question, whats a roof skin? Second question, how should I go about removing a vinyl top? Rust has started to discolor mine and push up on the vinyl, so it has to come off eventually.

 

Roof skin in just the outer sheet metal shell of the roof. No inner bracing or anything.

 

Remove the trim on you vinyl top and just start pulling it back. Large blade putty knives can help. If you're lucky you can patch the problem areas, if not you may be in the market for a roof skin.

[JTG 10]

Here's a pic.

[PennStateStang 11]

Roof skin in just the outer sheet metal shell of the roof. No inner bracing or anything.

 

Remove the trim on you vinyl top and just start pulling it back. Large blade putty knives can help. If you're lucky you can patch the problem areas, if not you may be in the market for a roof skin.

 

So, I assume Mustangs did not come with roof bracing. If I have this right, there are four posts hold the roof up. They come from the sides of the front window and the rear window. Just trying to learn a little more.

 

To remove the trim, do I need any special tools? Will it just come off if pulled, carefully that is? I am preparing myself for the task of removing the vinyl if my car doesn't sell.

[69RestoRod 10]

Mustangs have roof bracing, it's just the replacement skins don't come with the bracing. They are separate parts. You'll need a trim removal tool you can buy and most auto stores. Do a search on classic car trim removal to get an idea of how to use the tool. It's easier to see than to explain. Go slow as I'm sure the trim won't be cheap or easy to replace if damaged.

[NJ_Bob 10]

The other sad thing is that I was just in NJ all last week for vacation. We went to Wildwood for a week.

 

Next time you "have" to go to Wildwood for a week, let me know & I'll gladly take your place.

[PennStateStang 11]

Mustangs have roof bracing, it's just the replacement skins don't come with the bracing. They are separate parts.

 

If I replace my roof with a roof skin, will I need to add bracing? What are some things I should know about before trying to install/remove a roof? I'm not saying I will do it myself, but I want to know things to ask a body shop guy so I can tell they are legit and know what they are doing.

[69RestoRod 10]

If I replace my roof with a roof skin, will I need to add bracing? What are some things I should know about before trying to install/remove a roof? I'm not saying I will do it myself, but I want to know things to ask a body shop guy so I can tell they are legit and know what they are doing.

 

Most likely not. Depends on how severe the rust. Only way to tell is to pull the interior headliner at look at it.

[PennStateStang 11]

So does the roof skin go right on top of the original roof? I mean once I have removed all the rust and such from the old one.

[helrazr70 10]

I just got my shipment of parts from CJ Pony Parts this week! Both my doors were damaged and have to be returned, but the roof skin and full rear 1/4s are OK and will be mounted soon.

 

I have spent probably 20 hours over the past 2 days grinding and drilling spot welds for the roof skin and rear 1/4s along the rear window. (time includes removing the rear 1/4 windows, weatherstipping, weatherstrip channels, front windshield, and back glass) What a pain in the butt that was!

 

I can't wait to see this car with a roof again! Even better will be seeing it with a roof and upper rear 1/4s that you can't see through! That vinyl roof really wrecked the upper 1/4s and roof!

 

I will post pics when I get finished. I am only attaching the roof and rear 1/4s with sheetmetal screws for now. I am moving soon and will disassemble later and patch some rust on the 1/4 support structure and sand/paint all the underbracing--which I don't have time for right now.

 

The car will be hauled to PA from TN and who knows how long it will be before I can get started on it again. I just want it to be whole again and I don't want to have to haul the parts. (the boxes are HUGE!)

 

Stay tuned for pics!