PennStateStang

The books have been claimed.

Hey guys, Unfortunately I had to sell my car to a dealer because there were no other offers. I got $4000 for the car. I just posted about all my shop manuals that I am giving away, so if you want them look in the parts forum. Thanks for all the help. ~Brian

Hey All, I had to sell my '69 Coupe but the buyer didn't want my shop manuals and resto books. I will give you: Ford Shop Manuals (Five Volume Set) Chilton Mustang 1964-73 Manual 1969 Mustang Illustrated Facts and Specifications Manual (Jim Osborn Reproductions, 1999) Mustang How-to Vol. 1 (California Mustang Sales and Parts, Inc. 1989) Mustang Restoration Guide (Motorbooks Workshop, Tom Corcoran & earl Davis, 1998) Haynes Repair Manual Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 - 1973 Clymer Ford Mustang 1964-1973 Shop Manual All of the books are in great condition. The 5-volume shop manual set has some black marks from dirty fingers when I was paging through the manuals. If you are interested, send an email to me at bhleigh@gmail.com. I am willing to ship internationally or domestically, all I ask is that you be willing to cover the shipping. The books will fit inside a USPS Large Flat Rate Box ($14.95) for US addresses, and we can talk about international pricing. ~Brian

So does the roof skin go right on top of the original roof? I mean once I have removed all the rust and such from the old one.

If I replace my roof with a roof skin, will I need to add bracing? What are some things I should know about before trying to install/remove a roof? I'm not saying I will do it myself, but I want to know things to ask a body shop guy so I can tell they are legit and know what they are doing.

So, I assume Mustangs did not come with roof bracing. If I have this right, there are four posts hold the roof up. They come from the sides of the front window and the rear window. Just trying to learn a little more. To remove the trim, do I need any special tools? Will it just come off if pulled, carefully that is? I am preparing myself for the task of removing the vinyl if my car doesn't sell.

Newbie question, whats a roof skin? Second question, how should I go about removing a vinyl top? Rust has started to discolor mine and push up on the vinyl, so it has to come off eventually.

I fixed the rough running problem, well, the local mechanic did. I was walking in my neighborhood and noticed this auto mechanics shop with a 1970 Fastback GT all nice and pretty. I talked to the guy and for $50 he re-tuned my carb, trimmed the idle, adjusted and cleaned my distributor, and set the timing. Plus he pointed out a few things that would help me sell the car quicker and things that need to be done on the car just to make it a better ride. Wish I found him about two years ago... Anyways, the car runs great. Starts right up and sounds like a car should. I'll keep updates coming.

Thanks for the input. eBay currently has only Bosses and 351W for sale. Never thought to look up the NADA price, so thanks for grabbing that for me. I'll let you all know what happens.

Hey folks, I am trying to sell my 69 Coupe and don't know what to sell it for. I would like to sell it for $6,000 because thats what I owe on it. I've listed the details below and there are some pictures linked. The car runs a little rough and I no longer have the time/money to fix the problem. There is some discoloration on the vinyl, which I believe to be from rust poking through but I don't know. The car is rust free in the trunk, wheel wells, undercarriage, interior, and anywhere else but the one spot on the roof. Please give your input or if you need more description just ask. Thanks. :helpsmilie: 1969 Mustang 302 red with white vinyl hard top custom pinstripe and rims numbers match (engine, vin, doors) 302ci Holley 600cfm 4v carb Eidlebrock aluminum intak Petronix Flamethrower II electric ignition (newer wires) K&N air filter Red Top 6-cell battery Summit Racing headers Summit Racing 2 1/2" dual exhaust system LH Front gas slotted disc brake rotor new brake calipers braided steel brake lines to front brakes new master cylinder new gas tank and sending unit new weather stripping around doors interior was redone by previous owner, great shape Not installed parts: RH Front gas slotted disc brake (company sent the wrong part the first time) Sway bar with new bolts Rear drum-to-disc conversion kit all the shop manuals Pictures

thanks. i'll give it a go this weekend and post when I'm done.

i'll have to take off the center bushings because I am of the mind set "when one bolt goes, replace all the bolts". Totally forgot about the suspension loaded part. Can you still install the link bolts when the car is on the ground? I haven't tried, so I don't know.

whats the best way to install the sway bar link bolts? About 6 months ago, I was driving on the highway and the driver side nut fell off and the whole bolt, rubber bushings, etc. went along with it. I got a new set of bolts and all. I'm having trouble getting enough of the thread through place the nut on. thanks.

i installed 2.5" Summit Racing dual exhaust on my 302. everything fit well. Because the gas tank is slightly off center towards the drivers side, the exhaust on that side is slightly angled up wards at the tips. had to do some jerry rigging to get the hangers in right. i agree with not going above 2.5". Unless you are racing the car regularly, you'll kill your performance and 2.5" is a really tight fit as it is. my two bits...

By fan winding up, I mean that i turn the key and the enginedoesn't turn on but something goes "whhiirrrr", like a fan on your computer. I'll check this weekend about the starter engaging the flywheel, need to read the shop manual first though. I did notice another thing about starting the car: I turn the key and sometimes the engine starts to catch but as soon as I press a little gas, the engine shuts off. Isit the choke? Thanks for all the help. Tuning engines is not my forte..