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Juice It

fuel gauge issue?

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So I bought those little LED lights to brighten up my dash a bit, put them all in, put the whole dash in and back together and of coarse now my fuel gauge doesn't work. It worked fine before I messed with it and I took it all back out and don't see any cracks in the printed circuit and I sanded the contacts a bit thinking the connections weren't good and clean but still get nothing. ANy ideas I could try would be great. Thats what you get when you get bored and surf ebay for stuff you don't need!

 

Thanks!

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Ha, reminds me when I first bought mine the gas tank float (which is two pieces of brass soldered together) had sprung a leak and wouldn't float. I carried a notepad and wrote down the mileage every time I got gas so I could refuel before ~300 miles. I still ran out of gas more times than I care to remember and finally fixed the d@~^ thing!

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Hey Jeff, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. Considering how flimsy/brittle the printed circuit ribbon is and how easy it is to mutilate one of the connections to the main connector, I'd suspect some inadvertent damage when you pulled the connector out originally to replace the bulbs assuming you removed the entire dash cluster (as I did).

 

A simple test would be to locate the area on the printed circuit that goes to the fuel gauge and put 12V across it. You should see it go to full if the gauge is working and the printed circuit is undamaged. If not, then you may have damaged the printed circuit.

 

If so, then your problem is probably just a poor connection to the printed circuit. Inspect both sides, make sure the connector is "pushed out" to make good contact with the printed circuit ribbon.

 

It's highly unlikely that your sending unit would take this time to fail, but stranger things have happened.

 

Hope this helps.

Tom

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I tried everything but can't get it to work. I assume I messed up the printed circuit somehow but don't see a crack anywhere in the short runs from where the fuel gauge is. I don't know how to test it to see if it is working. I guess I will order a new circuit. Anyone have an opinion on where to get it? Are their different aftermarket ones or are they all the same?

 

Thanks,

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Hey Jeff, sounds like you're ready to make the buy. I get most of my stuff at VA Mustang, but I'm sure they all get them from the same source. I was suggesting that you rule out other problems by testing with 12V on the printed circuit to get the gas gauge to come up off E. If you don't have a 12V source, you can put a meter across the connector that goes to the printed circuit (you'll need to know which wire, of course) and see if you get some voltage with the key on ACC.

 

I guess I'd feel better knowing what's wrong before buying stuff, but $50 might put your mind at ease with a new printed circuit.

 

Good luck!

Tom

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Problem solved! Thanks for the sugestions. I actually googled the 1969 mustang printed circuit and in the responses there were a few forum posts with the same issue. The problem was when I put the 4 nuts on the fuel gauge I did not make sure the bolts were perfectly straight and not touching the metal on the housing. Sure enough I had it touching and it was grounded out. Thats what thos little paper things are supposed to prevent but mine are a bit stretched. Anyway, thanks a bunch!

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Well - I have to say thanks for this post and thread Juice it....

 

Today I've got the blinkers, LED dash light (kept bulbs for the turn signals) and cluster working EXCEPT for the gas gauge. It won't move off "E"... so tomorrow, 1st thing I'm taking the cluster out and checking to see if its open!..... Temp work, Oil is good - just the damn gas.

 

From the other posts I also picked up from jerry69 that if it pegs then:

 

"While you have the wire off the sending unit take a volt-ohm meter and put one probe on the connector where the wire was and the other probe to the round part of the sending unit where it attaches to the tank... The sending unit should measure 8-12 ohms full and 70-73 ohms empty. So a short to ground would show over full, just like "SellersRodshop" stated.

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Well I spoke to soon - looks like it's time for a new PCB. Tried to fix the gas gauge and now only one blinker works (bulbs good), no Temp or Oil where they worked yesterday.

 

Sensitive 40 yr. old things they are... Mustang Unlimited - thank you!

 

Another week delay..... Well time to get a beer - It is after 12:00 now

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so another weekend - more parts and guess what! SUCCESS!

 

LED bulbs in and working, Gauges in and ALL working (Except for alt. due to single wire).

 

Solution - New dash PCB from Mustangs Unlimited and Voltage regulator...... Coz - your console is in with real guages for volt/ oil! Dash pad back in! Hood installed!

 

Last major item before heading off to the alignment and muffler shop is mounting of the shaker on the Holley 750 (I'm sure more threads will be researched:whistling:)...... Getting there!

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There are vendors that sell a pod where you loose the front ashtray in the stock console but can put in 2 - 2.125" guages. Cost of the pod was ~$25 I think from Mustangs Unlimited. Copies the idea of the Shelby Console offering for the 69 where there was no ashtray.....

 

Since it is a new engine - I went for a mechanical oil guage and since I converted to a 140A single wire alternator and I lost the dash alt stock guage (ammeter) I used the second spot for a voltmeter which shows anothing over ~1.5k is pushing 14V and everything is fine..... So in the old ashtray I now have real time - detailed status in a stock console!

 

 

Stock temp still works and tracks well with the electric fan.....

 

Give me a week - I'll post pics if you want...

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