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foothilltom

Instrument Cluster Lights - help needed

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Hi folks,

 

Just replaced my stock instrument bulbs with those cool LEDs I saw mentioned in a post here. They are most definitely brighter (when I run power to them myself).

 

Alas, my instrument lights will not illuminate when everything is connected. Using my voltmeter, I've determined that I'm not getting 12v to the spots on the main connector (to the instrument cluster) that *should* light the lights.

 

Not having any wiring diagram for that big connector, I basically ran 12V manually across the various terminals until I saw lights come on, so I can pretty much say the bulbs work and the circuit board is good (though old).

 

So my FIRST STUPID QUESTION is:

 

* Does anybody know where I can find documentation for what each of the terminals on that main instrument connector means? Trial and error seems like a bad way to go.

 

When I pull the light switch to the first position, I get two lights: the shifter light and the ignition switch courtesy light, so my gut tells me the switch may not be bad. Which leads me to my next (and final) stupid question:

 

* If any of the lights work, can the light/dimmer switch still be bad?

 

In summary, no instrument lights work and I don't appear to get 12V to the terminal positions that connect to the circuit board. The circuit board seems OK to me as I can apply 12v myself and get them to light up. I have NO IDEA which terminal does what and my Chilton manual doesn't cover it.

 

Thanks VERY MUCH for you wisdom, folks.

 

Tom

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Oh, and if I may...assuming it's worth it to replace the light/dimmer switch given my problem description, is the switch a 2-part thing that connects to an existing connector? A casual glance at it shows a bunch of wires coming out of it, so I'd hate to think I have to cut and re-splice all of those.

 

Thanks!

Tom

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Awesome. I need to get these printed on the biggest paper possible. Thanks for the diagrams.

 

I'm still really curious to get opinions on the Light/Dimmer switch bad-or-not question given some lights work, dash lights do not. Thanks in advance.

Tom

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If no power at the connector, trace the wire on the diagrams back to the switch. If no power is coming out of the headlight switch for the dash lights, then the switch is bad. The headlight switch has a spring tab that rides across a resistor coil inbedded in the ceramic part of the switch. This dims the dash lights when the knob is rotated. The tab could possibly have worn or broke so it no longer makes contact or there may be a break in the resistance coil. All other lights may still function normally if nothing else is wrong.

Edited by RacerX

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Thanks, RacerX. Not only was Speed Racer one of my favorite cartoons as a kid in the 60's and early 70's, but your hometown is also my last name. Kizmit.

 

Tom

 

Tom, you may be interested then in this Speed Racer desktop theme I designed about 8 years or so ago for your PC, basically it turns your computer into the Mach 5 with sounds from the show and animated cursors and icons. http://udel.edu/~mm/anime/speed/articles/srTheme.html

 

The original wallpaper in that file is a little dated but I made this nicer one a few years later that you can change manaually.

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Yeah me too, I also have the full set of Resaurus action figures and 1 of only 100 official video tape copies of all 52 episodes of the original series (set #002). Unlike the CD's offered these days these actually start off with the famous "Trans Lux presents" opening credits just as it did on air originally. I actually know Jim Rocknowski and was Pres of the fan club for two years at the dawn of the internet. I still have a Forum fansite out there actually but I never visit it anymore. Traffic was way slow for years and now it's just filled with geeks that think the new movie was the bomb. I can't believe I dreamed and waited my whole life for that POS!

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I have been thinking about using these led's as well. I read though that to keep it the closest to the original color you should get the blue ones but mine sure look more green than blue. Has anyone used these and what color did you get?

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

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Juice,

 

The original lenses in the instrument cluster are blue. The lights give off a greenish glow probably due to being made of cheap plastic.

 

Pak,

 

I almost forgot, I have a 3D model of the Mach5 in solidworks that I downloaded from the net.

Edited by RacerX

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Not to hijack the hijack ;-) but does anybody know if these are made, or something like it, for the '69-70? What I'm looking for is:

 

http://www.classicinstruments.com/index.aspx?documentID=mustanginformation

 

1. Original green glow, but brighter (I want the interior to look stock with very subtle improvements

 

2. Tach somewhere in the two main round instrument clusters

 

3. Other gauges (oil press, ammeter) could be on that little Shelby-style front-of-console pod, that would still look period-correct.

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Not to hijack the thread, but does anybody know if those twin front buzz saws were ever available on our 69 Mustangs? Or did they only come on the Mach 5?

 

What kind of a stupid fricken question is that? Of course they were, at least according to my Marti Report which I have no intention of questioning (listed as option Mach 1.5). Most were removed by 1970 due to new safety regulations but fortunately my car still retains them. I'm sure there are several other 69's that have added the aftermarket ones over the years but you can spot them easily because they turn at a slower RPM (wouldn't even shred a toothpick) and they work with the wrong steering wheel button "B" (I assume for buzz saws) instead of the correct "C" button for cutter blades.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=3584&d=1221156887

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While we are on the off topic still, I just dug thru the old Pakrat archive files and found this pic of my old 99' stang I had the year I lived in Texas that I sold in 2002 after moving back to New England.

 

109505_13_full.jpg

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Not to hijack the hijack ;-) but does anybody know if these are made, or something like it, for the '69-70? What I'm looking for is:

 

http://www.classicinstruments.com/index.aspx?documentID=mustanginformation

 

1. Original green glow, but brighter (I want the interior to look stock with very subtle improvements

 

2. Tach somewhere in the two main round instrument clusters

 

3. Other gauges (oil press, ammeter) could be on that little Shelby-style front-of-console pod, that would still look period-correct.

 

 

haneline.com has something similar that uses classic instruments gauges.

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What kind of a stupid fricken question is that? ... I'm sure there are several other 69's that have added the aftermarket ones over the years but you can spot them easily because they turn at a slower RPM (wouldn't even shred a toothpick) and they work with the wrong steering wheel button "B" (I assume for buzz saws) instead of the correct "C" button for cutter blades.

 

I feel so stupid not knowing that :blink:

Love it, Pak, you had me laughing out loud. Only a true Speed-Racer fan would know what they were really called and which button ya pushed ....

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I feel so stupid not knowing that :blink:

Love it, Pak, you had me laughing out loud. Only a true Speed-Racer fan would know what they were really called and which button ya pushed ....

 

Lol, I aims to please.:clown:

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rofl spitting-out-my-milk. I didn't have the James Bond style buzzsaw spinners on my wheels as a factory option (it wasn't part of the 76B deluxe convertible option kit) so I had to obtain them from Coy's Wheel. Ask them for the C-67, but you have to call for the telescoping buzzsaw extensions, and tell 'em I sent you. They'll tear up the guy nex to you like this: :taz:

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I had instrument cluster light issues - replaced the dimmer switch but that didn't solve the problem. For me, it turned out to be grounding issues with the printed circuit board (plastic). I solved it by using electrical tape to block any inadvertant grounding between the individual bulbs and the board. It brightened up my my cluster panel considerably.

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