Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Pakrat

It looks like I'll need a new rearend

Recommended Posts

When my car has been on the lift it sits as level as can be but on the ground it's tipping so I fear the rear end was compromised in the accident.

 

I REALLY did not want to blow part of my budget on a new rearend right now but I may not have a choice, It seemed very driveable beofre the tear down but it just looks like butt this way.

 

The smart choice I guess would be to go 9" now but I'd like to go as cost efficient as I can, use my exisiting gears even maybe until I can afford a swap to a 5spd as well. I realy don't think i want to go bone picking for an unknown as I'd like to just bolt it in and maybe paint at best.

 

So what are some options you can offer me? My body guy suggest I buy a moser because he has an account with them and can cut me a deal. Any thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How much power does the car have, and how rough on it are you?

 

Right now it's in the 280HP range, hoping for a max of 325HP one day.

 

I'd call it more a cruiser than a bruiser, I'll get a little spiritied from time to time but it is a vert so I'm not doing any straight runs with it or corner carving.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, an 8 inch will stand up to 300 easily if your not racing every weekend, so I think an original 9 inch should stand up to whatever you can give it unless you have a 500 hp beast that you only drive a quarter mile at a time. Even with a discount, the moser should cost a considerable amount more than an original.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have you measured the ground clearance to the rear axle tubes to ensure the axle is bent? Are you reusing your leaf springs or are they new?

 

No, brand new leafs, shackles, what not, the new shocks are not on the car yet though, it's shockless. I have not measured the clearance yet but it seems noticable when looking. I will do that tomorrow though and take a pic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pak, the 8" will be fine even for a 325hp 302. personally i would just get a good used one and have it blasted and painted. maybe even change to a 3.25 gear or so while you're at it. don't waste your money on a moser or currie rear, way way way way overkill for your car. worst case scenario just have yours straightened, it can be done. currie can do it if need be and it doesn't cost a lot. basically they'll insert a big ass piece of solid round stock the size of the inner diameter of the axle tube and put the rear into a hydraulic press and press it until it's straight. you can do the same with a 2 ton hydraulic press and no big bar though it probably won't be as arrow straight as currie's way but still workable. even from the factory our cars didn't have perfectly straight rearends.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pak, the 8" will be fine even for a 325hp 302. personally i would just get a good used one and have it blasted and painted. maybe even change to a 3.25 gear or so while you're at it. don't waste your money on a moser or currie rear, way way way way overkill for your car. worst case scenario just have yours straightened, it can be done. currie can do it if need be and it doesn't cost a lot. basically they'll insert a big ass piece of solid round stock the size of the inner diameter of the axle tube and put the rear into a hydraulic press and press it until it's straight. you can do the same with a 2 ton hydraulic press and no big bar though it probably won't be as arrow straight as currie's way but still workable. even from the factory our cars didn't have perfectly straight rearends.

 

Yeah see, I like that idea as I'd like to keep the original rearend, it has all the tags on it and everything. I wouldn't know how to begin to find a local used rear end and know that it's good too. Shipping to currie would be pricey though wouldn't it? I wonder how I could find a local place? Yellow pages wouldn't be much help. Could I just search for Mustang 8" rearend straightening online ya think? I don't want a bunch of porn sites sneeking into my system. Ya think 3:25 gears would be steep enough? Everyone where I look seems 3:50 is the most popular. I don't want to loose my highway rpm's too much until I can afford a 5spd.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just look in the yellow pages for a driveline shop, if they can't do it their i'm sure they will know where to send it. as for the gear ratio, that' pretty much up to you but with the 3.25 you'll still get good mileage on the highway and not turn a lot of rpm but still accelerate better in town. 3.50 would be about the lowest gear i would go on the street w/o an overdrive and even then i'd still be looking for that 5th gear. the 3.25 would be a good compromise with or without overdrive. i also wouldn't go any higher than 3.25 if you do the overdrive because it will just put the RPM too low on the highway in 5th gear. the best gear ratio's IMO for OD would be 3.25-3.70 for a cruiser with the 3.50 falling right in the middle. 3.25 like i said is good for a cruiser with or without overdrive. i've got the 3.25 9" in my car and i'll be keeping a 3.25 gear when i get the cougar even when i swap in the AOD.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
just look in the yellow pages for a driveline shop, if they can't do it their i'm sure they will know where to send it. as for the gear ratio, that' pretty much up to you but with the 3.25 you'll still get good mileage on the highway and not turn a lot of rpm but still accelerate better in town. 3.50 would be about the lowest gear i would go on the street w/o an overdrive and even then i'd still be looking for that 5th gear. the 3.25 would be a good compromise with or without overdrive. i also wouldn't go any higher than 3.25 if you do the overdrive because it will just put the RPM too low on the highway in 5th gear. the best gear ratio's IMO for OD would be 3.25-3.70 for a cruiser with the 3.50 falling right in the middle. 3.25 like i said is good for a cruiser with or without overdrive. i've got the 3.25 9" in my car and i'll be keeping a 3.25 gear when i get the cougar even when i swap in the AOD.

 

That's good enough for me. Curious though, what was common in the 5.0 crowd, the 3:50? I'll start hunting for a driveline shop tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Everyone is likely right.. an 8" is fine. I've just seen too many 8" pumpkins in pieces from overpowering so I'm not so sure. If the car never has a sticky tire on it I'd guess it would be fine.

 

I've never thought about straighting a housing. Might make sure the axles are ok as well if it's really bent though.

 

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

-Stephen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Everyone is likely right.. an 8" is fine. I've just seen too many 8" pumpkins in pieces from overpowering so I'm not so sure. If the car never has a sticky tire on it I'd guess it would be fine.

 

I've never thought about straighting a housing. Might make sure the axles are ok as well if it's really bent though.

 

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

-Stephen

 

well even with the 325hp he is planning he could run slicks and still be fine with the 8" pretty easily. but you're right if the axle on that side is bent it will need to be replaced but the housing can be straightened if not's bent too badly which it doesn't sound like it's bent bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That's good enough for me. Curious though, what was common in the 5.0 crowd, the 3:50? I'll start hunting for a driveline shop tomorrow.

 

Either 350 or 373.

 

I'm running 350's and I wouldn't go any lower without OD. If you car is more cruiser than racer then 325's is what I would pick. My car revs around 3000 at 60 mph.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
well even with the 325hp he is planning he could run slicks and still be fine with the 8" pretty easily. but you're right if the axle on that side is bent it will need to be replaced but the housing can be straightened if not's bent too badly which it doesn't sound like it's bent bad.

 

Well, we'll see, I'm going to to take some measurements and pics this morning. I do know that there was always a little issue with it because the PO had air shocks to balance it and it did have 3 leafs on one side and 4 on the other. I've seen a lot of stangs with a little tilt to them over the years. Hopefully it isn't bent too bad as I'd like this fixed once and cost efficiently. As a reminder though, it did get hit square on the tire. :pinch:

 

100_0071.sized.jpg

 

100_0067.sized.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ugh.. I hate seeing that picture again.. :(

 

Have you measured the wheelbase on both sides to start as a comparison?

And inside the backing plates front and back and top to bottom.

 

I would guess that without the housing out of the car it will be hard to make sure what's up... or bent up that is.

 

Back then I always thought 8's could handle more power but I watched a 65 289 with a 3.50 gear and shorty slicks puke a pumpkin and a 302 that was pretty stock blow out spiders so I'm shy of them. He's not going to be hammering that hard likely though.

 

I actually have a 78 Mustang II 8", four speed and front end parts that I'm keeping for some future unknown, maybe a street rod driver project though. I keep thinking a 2.3L turbo four in a 32 coupe or roadster would be cool... sorry, off topic.

 

-Stephen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ugh.. I hate seeing that picture again.. :( -Stephen

 

Not as much as I do brother. Try having that side of the car facing the door to your kitchen from the garage and seeing it every single time you throw out the trash from October until the spring thaw!!!:thumbdown:

 

I had some things to do around the house this morning but I'm headed to the garage after to lunch to take some pics and measurments. The car was yard driving OK suprisingly at the time so it can't be too bad I hope. I do want a 9" someday or if I wait long enough maybe even a full IRS with a rack up front but not now if I can help it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can only imagine how you feel, and I do not want to imagine that anyhow.. :)

 

Have you tried jacking it up and turning each wheel (non-posi I assume)?

If the axle is bent surely there would be binding somewhere.

 

Good luck and have a good day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have you measured the ground clearance to the rear axle tubes to ensure the axle is bent? Are you reusing your leaf springs or are they new?

 

I got around to measuring this by the way today and it may be fine after all. Measuring each side of the axle near the pumpkin right before it curves is 11" to the ground and also at the end before each leaf spring is 11" too so the probelm must be elsewhere I guess. Although I did notice today that it does seem to look more level but maybe my garage floor tilts the other way, who knows.

 

Would/could the springs settle a little different at first? It was very level on the lift so if there is a problem then where is the next most logical spot?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have to stock type shackles or aftermarket ones? I have a pair on my fastback that have two holes in the side plates, so you can adjust the ride height. It is possible to have one leaf higher/lower than the other if different holes were used. Just something to check out, because normally in my case i overlook the easy/obvious stuff.

 

Did you try measuring other areas of the car in reference to the ground? Try measuring the same spot on each frame rail and see if they match up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Do you have to stock type shackles or aftermarket ones? I have a pair on my fastback that have two holes in the side plates, so you can adjust the ride height. It is possible to have one leaf higher/lower than the other if different holes were used. Just something to check out, because normally in my case i overlook the easy/obvious stuff.

 

Did you try measuring other areas of the car in reference to the ground? Try measuring the same spot on each frame rail and see if they match up.

 

Thye were stock 4 leaf replacements, nothing special.

 

Yeah I will start measuring a variety of reference points for sure, thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could also level by adding shims between the spring and axle. But this would only work for minor adjustments. I managed to level mine when I moved my battery to the truck on the high side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's posible that the suspension is preloaded on one side and not the other. try loosening all of the leaf spring attaching bolts, front eye and rear shackle, and then cycle the suspension through some motion, pushing on all corners of the car, and see if it doesn't level out some.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it's posible that the suspension is preloaded on one side and not the other. try loosening all of the leaf spring attaching bolts, front eye and rear shackle, and then cycle the suspension through some motion, pushing on all corners of the car, and see if it doesn't level out some.

 

 

OK, thanks for the idea. Right now it is tucked into the corner of my garage so when we pull it out to paint the engine bay and undercarriage (hopefully in a week or two) I'll do just that, thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know this might sound crazy..... and i'm not sure that i'd do it..... but the guys who were talking about this same problem when I looked into doing mine said to loosen all the bolts and drive around the block. Don't go far, and don't loosen them too much, but just enough. Bring it around the block, come back and snug them up. It makes sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...