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Protowrxs

Protowrxs Coupe - Update

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Picked up some welding gas and spent most of the long weekend on the car. Floor pans are in, seam sealed on the top side and primed. This part seemed to be nagging at me for a long time. It's good to see it basically done.

 

P0003966%20%28Large%29_small.JPG

First time I've sat in the car like this for ages... Test locating the drivers seat pan.

 

P0003976%20%28Large%29_small.JPG

Both floor and seat pans finalized. I used B-Quite on the bottom of the seat pan and on the floor pan under the seat pan as well.

 

P0003978%20%28Large%29%20%282%29_small.JPG

Primer and ready for some paint more B-Quite.

 

I have to get more seam sealer and work the bottom side now.

 

More pics here.. progress finally!...

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Picked up some welding gas and spent most of the long weekend on the car. Floor pans are in, seam sealed on the top side and primed. This part seemed to be nagging at me for a long time. It's good to see it basically done.

 

P0003966%20%28Large%29_small.JPG

First time I've sat in the car like this for ages... Test locating the drivers seat pan.

 

P0003976%20%28Large%29_small.JPG

Both floor and seat pans finalized. I used B-Quite on the bottom of the seat pan and on the floor pan under the seat pan as well.

 

P0003978%20%28Large%29%20%282%29_small.JPG

Primer and ready for some paint more B-Quite.

 

I have to get more seam sealer and work the bottom side now.

 

More pics here.. progress finally!...

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No big news, just a couple parts but this wraps up everything I needed for the 347 rotating assembly so I should be able to get it off to a shop for balancing now. A SFI billet flywheel and an SFI balancer with new ARP bolts to hold it together. This stuff still isn't cheap though. :huh:

 

IMG_0211Medium.jpg

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Finished up most of the BQuite install the last couple weeks. Still have to pull the dash back out to finish up front. I had to mock in the dash in order to hold the column so I could make sure the rack and pinion worked and fit around the headers.

 

P0003980Medium.jpg

 

I used some quality foil tape to seam seal between the BQuite runs to keep the black stuff from making a mess. Looks better as well.. can you say "Shiiny"

P0003987Medium.jpg

 

 

I also picked up a complete 5.0 motor minus the upper intake and throttle body (of which I have extras) for $300. What I liked is this one has all the front accessories and all the little things I still need for the Stang 347 EFI like certain connectors, wiring, etc. The core block will get a check up and likely go into an '87 F150 I have sitting that needs a new long block. If fact you can see it in the background.

IMG_0298Medium.jpg

 

I also built a wood trunk divider since it will house a couple sub woofers hidden behind the rear seat. I am still thinking of attaching a thin sheet of steel on the back side.

IMG_0301Medium.jpg

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bet it feels good to be making progress again huh?

 

Yeah, I can almost see it all going back together in my head now. There are LOTs of details left as well though.

 

The stroker kit goes off to the machine shop for balancing and clearancing the block this week. I hope to get the cam, lifters, timing chain and oil pump soon so I can blueprint and put the short block together.

 

I'm trying to allocate funds to the items that cannot easily be upgraded later on.

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Yeah, I can almost see it all going back together in my head now. There are LOTs of details left as well though.

 

The stroker kit goes off to the machine shop for balancing and clearancing the block this week. I hope to get the cam, lifters, timing chain and oil pump soon so I can blueprint and put the short block together.

 

I'm trying to allocate funds to the items that cannot easily be upgraded later on.

 

 

i understand that, i do things like that as well. that's why i have a garage full of parts for a cougar i don't even officially own yet......:huh:

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Nothing big to update, just finished the B-Quite on the firewall and worked on a wiring harness.

 

I purchased a "needs a few splices" under dash hardness off ebay to cut up for aftermarket in dash tach, speedometer, and gauges. It did need a few splices for sure.. actually I had to replace one main power wire for the Backup light circuit that was apparently fried before. Looks like it shorted between the firewall and the trans at some point and the fuse was bypassed.

 

Here I have the instrument cluster connector cut off which was fine since the connector had been totally hacked back together. Everthing is labeled and waiting for a different set of connectors.

IMG_0311Medium.jpg

 

I also plan on using an after market fuse box so I have separated the firewall connector and the fuse box.

IMG_0316Medium.jpg

 

Also finished up the B-Quite install for the most part under the dash and firewall area.

P0003989Medium.jpg

 

Has anyone else used an after market fusebox such as a Painless unit yet?

 

They are not cheap but I always hated the old fuse types and want to insure I have enough circuits for other electrical circuits.

 

-Stephen

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Hey, what did the B-Quiet stuff run you for the car? I'm sure it works better than my budget solution but it sure doesn't look much different so I'm curious.

 

Sorry Pak, somehow I missed this completely.

 

It was $150 via ebay back then. It has been pretty straight forward to install. The only additional thing I've done is to use some aluminum tape to seal up the seams to keep from getting sticky black junk on everything.

 

Update wise I have my 347 stroker kit back in hand a couple weeks ago after having it balanced and had the machinist check the 5.0 block and clearance it for the stroker kit. He said it required very little with this kit.

 

I have decided to skip the after market A/C purchase for now since I picked up a 1988 TurboCoupe ( http://www.StephenNolen.com/TurboCoupe ) which has burned up that money. Going back with a standard heater box now and get the interior back together.

 

I also converted the existing fuse block to blade fuses for about $30 - will post pics soon.

 

Next is shortblock assembly!

 

-Stephen

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Just a little update - nothing much has been done the past year - everything else is eating up time and money. I have checked bearing, rod, and crank clearances and all is good. Setting ring end gaps now. I am still alive and kicking, just moving slowly.

 

This is just the mock for bearing checks. I still have to final pressure wash the block, install the oil galley plugs and paint but after that the final assembly begins.

 

I have been seriously considering dropping the EFI quest and using the Torker and 780 carb (after rebuild) that I have to get the car on the road though and then addressing EFI after everything else is sorted out.

 

IMG_1959_small.jpg

 

IMG_1956_small.jpg

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using the torker and 780 will probably work fine to be able to drive the car until you're ready for the EFI, but a smaller carb would probably help driveability until you're ready for the EFI. something like a 650 vac secondary would be a better choice if you plan on driving the car for a while before you do the EFI.

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Could be - I ran this old carb with a C4 and 306 (12.5:1 / port 289hipo heads) to to around 7k rpm and low 8's in the 1/8 mile back in the day and things worked well. With the 5 speed a double pumper might actually perform better but unless I leave it carbed I don't think I'll spend more on another carb. Actually I think I still have my old F4b intake that would be more 'classic' in nature and should work for this hydraulic cam 347/5spd combo.

 

Thanks!

 

using the torker and 780 will probably work fine to be able to drive the car until you're ready for the EFI, but a smaller carb would probably help driveability until you're ready for the EFI. something like a 650 vac secondary would be a better choice if you plan on driving the car for a while before you do the EFI.

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the F4B would be a cool addition, especially if you added the "LeMans" bowls to the carb, along with a Hi-Po air cleaner and your cobra valve covers. it would be a cool retro thing to do, i think. in fact i've even been thinking about ditching my plans for using a holley pro-jection system on my original C90X aluminum intake for using a 650 holley with the ford bowls and crossover line, just like it would have been done back in the day, i've also been thinking about using a stock 600 holley from a 390 GT with the stock motor until i get my long rod motor built. of course i'm also seriously considering an ultra-rare 1.19 venturi autolite 4100, though it's about twice what i can get 390 GT holley for.

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Picked up a McLeod scatter shield today - saved $170... and two feet if a clutch lets loose. Guy had it still NIB which was nice.

ScatterShield.jpg

 

Getting down to just a few major parts: roller cam, lifters, water pump, pulleys, exhaust, wheels, tires... ok, not just a FEW but better than the beginning - lol

 

-Stephen

1txzx-c9ad588eafb41449702be846bb49d4ff.49ade1c8.jpg

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All right, I'll ask, WTF is that?!??!?!?!?:blink:

 

the original Gear Vendors style overdrive unit, made back in the late 60's and all through the 70's. they were quite popular with guys who had 4.11, 4.30, 4.56 and even 3.55, 3.70, 3.89 gears. the one i have attaches to the 9" rear diff at the pinion support. they were also an option on the Baldwin-Motion cars too. check it out here;

 

 

http://www.stangerssite.com/honeodrive.html

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Well in case you didn't know those folks at AllFordMustangs are scared to death of any links in your sig that 'drive traffic to other websites' - kind of funny to me but I received a 'warning' for link back to here in my sig. Seems a little insecure to me. Doubt I will be going back there.

 

-Stephen

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Cam and Lifters are ordered - Trick Flow Stage One, more than enough for what I'm doing, especially with the 1.7 rockers that came with the heads, and should match the Twisted Wedge heads better. It's always so easy to over cam a build, should not be the case for me this time.

 

I hope to have the short block together before the end of the month since I will have everything before then.

 

In the mean time I will be putting the narrower 50" heavy duty housing in and welding up the mounts and working on EFI fuel pump mounting and line runs and final prep/paint underneath the floor pans.

 

Someone should poke me if I don't get anything done this month :-)

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Well nobody ever poked me... And nothing has gotten done.

 

I HAVE bought / rebuilt a 1985 Mustsng SVO, purchased a 91 Mustang 5.0 GT with my son and helped him update a few things on it and bought a $400 4x4 Ranger and put it back on the road but its going to take lot more than another $400 to make a reliable winter driver.

 

BUT nothing on the 69. Even our son is wondering about the project now as he is already driving and the joke was I "only" had 16 years to get it back on the road after he was born.

 

Looking at dusting off the old project and putting some winter time garage work in. Can't even get to it now as the other projects and junk have covered it up.

 

Time marches on... And on... And on....

Stephen

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