Muletman

The headlamps have ground wires, maybe one is loose. I have an aftermarket harness, it should be the same though.

The rear of the interior is done, installed fold down rear seat, trap door, carpet, 3pt retractable seat belts, and sail panels. Next up, complete under dash wiring, install dash, steering wheel and reupholstered seats.

Raven R, I believe it is Dupont as far as the code goes I'm not sure.

RonF, check this link out. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/656949-70-mach-1-firewall-holes.html

I love wiring so much, the American Auto wire kit is very well put together. I'm trying to complete the inside of the car by Sunday, then it is time for the engine and transmission.

Looking good, good to see another Florida member, I'm just north of Orlando.

More progress. Installed passenger door glass, passenger door panel, new quarter window, window pillar moldings, top windshield molding, gas pedal, sun visors. I also installed the Vintage air switches to my factory controls , and lower dash vents to my lower dash. I painted the dash with dark charcoal metallic and installed all of the new switches and last but not least I put in a Kenwood stereo with all the bells and whistles.

Found it.[ATTACH]17095[/ATTACH]

Where do I drill the hole in the toe board for the brake cable to go through the torque box? My body shop failed to drill the hole.

I made progress, I aligned the driver door, installed wiring, installed 1970 door glass, and a freshly built door panel. Question: Do I have to use screws on the bottom of the door panel? I was thinking about using weather strip adhesive to secure the panel to the door.

test

Looking at my dash pad, it sure seems like something is missing...was there a grille over the defroster? I have never seen a 69 dash that had a grille.

We also need the support that fits between the trim and the hood. I'm on my third trim piece, it is just poorly designed by the current vendors. The quality of the entire grille surround is lacking from the remanufacturers. And the lack of detailed instructions for these parts does not make sense.

My Samsung camera phone and the flourescent light make it look blue... I am waiting on a pair of 6" Bazooka tubes, I think they will fit behind the fiberglass net to the seats.

Okay here we go, I have gathered most of the parts to install my interior. My plan is to work from the back of the car forward. Here is a rough outline of what I plan to do. Wiring harness - American Autowire Paint - Trap door, Arm rests, Quarter trim and Hocky sticks. Dynamat interior prewire stereo componants Install stealth powered subwoofers install rear plastic trim install Folddown rear seat Install Vintage Air A/C Install Dash This should keep me busy for a month or so. So far, the car has had the floorpan, torque boxes and a frame rail replaced and painted Gulfstream Aqua. We have added 4 wheel SSBC brakes, Steeroids power rack & pinion, tilt column, Global West Subframe connectors, OpenTracker roller perches, Moog upper and lower control arms, coils, 4 leaf mid eye springs, front sway bar and KYB shocks.

l would do suspension first, once dialed in and everything is level then sfc. I went with the tubular Global West from Opentracker. Open tracker also sells some nice suspension pieces, check out the Roller Spring Perches.

I've been quoted $300.00 to reupholster my front buckets, this is labor only. I have the TMI Sport Seat upholstery and new foam pads, does this sound reasonable? Is this a job best left to a pro or something I should attempt to do on my own? Are there any good tutorials on how to do this?

My bad, try this http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all#volts

Thanks, I'm rebuilding a car that I didn't take apart.

The tab on the back of the long metal door cup, does it go behind the door panel or do you fit the wood panels over it?

I am using the American Autowire 1969 harness with a Tach dash. I know of 2 places that can convert the factory tach to the modern air core movement www.rcinnovations.com and the www.Tachman.com both are arond $135. The benefit of the new movement are simple one wire hook-up of the factory tach and the tach is no longer inline in the ignition circuit.

These are American Racing VN701's, I think they look like a modern Magnum 500 and they are cheap compared to the AR500. [ATTACH]12654[/ATTACH]

70Vert All of the above mentioned work is already done, it's too late for the Dynacorn body. Paint and body is next and they have given me an estimate of 5-7K. Does this seem to be a fair price, I really don't like that they are giving me a range of what it will cost? This shop specializes in Mustangs, I've seen 3 Boss 302's and a few Shelby's that they have done, nice cars. Here is the car when I bought it. Mulet

Thanks guys, I'm feeling a little better about this. I still have paint and body to go, the rear quarters and tail light panel were replaced already, good rockers,cowl, fenders and hood. I'll should have a rolling shell in Gulfstream Aqua for about 20k. Ouch!

FRH......thanks for the reply, I know it's a tough question to answer.