Cruzzar

Thanks xplane, I had a great time, weather was great and I saw a lot of fantastic cars.

Amochoru, I believe that is the correct fastener. I had to weld my pass. side in because the metal was so distorted. My driver's side was still in good shape.

I just checked my '70s bumper (same as 69). I put a straight edge on the bumper from one side to the other, (from the area right before it curves to go around the quarter extension) and measured right in the middle and found that the bumper is about 1/2" further away. I other words, the bumper does curve across the back. It is curved out away from the car in the middle. This allows room for the license plate light to fit between the body and the bumper. I hops this is clear and helps. From the picture it appears that your bumper is curved in toward the body and not away. Standing on it's end would not bend it.

Hey, was that Corsair a stocker or did it have the 4360 in it?

Here's a link to a previous post regarding additional light for your car. I found a rearview/map light out of a fox body convert. If I remember correctly, the glue-on piece on the vert's windshield was the same shape as my '70. Here is the previous post and some pictures of the original and fox mirror. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=913&highlight=interior+lights Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Ford cars mostly have the correct pattern but not Ford trucks, some have 5 on 5" center line.

Most of the return spring pressure comes from the spring that is surrounding the adjustment rod that is underneath the car. If this spring is gone then the parking brake lever will not return. Look at the second response (the first response from BuckeyDemon) and it shows the spring that I am referring to. You might want to remove the cable that goes from the parking brake lever to the adjuster under the car and make sure it slides freely. If it is grungy it may be the source of the pakring brake lever not returning to its seated position.

This should help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7303&highlight=headliner+rods

This should help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7303&highlight=headliner+rods

1969 Mustang, My '70 FB was originally a six so I have no idea how much lower it is than stock but the air cleaner that I ended up using is a K&N 2 3/4" tall element (#KNN-E-3720 thru Summit). Again, it took a lot of work to get everything to fit under the stock hood. I had to go to a countersunk, flat head stainless bolt to hold the aircleaner lid down because a regular hex head would have hit the underside of the hood. I put a piece of wadded up tin foil on top of the aircleaner lid and closed the hood and it squished the foil down to about 3/16".

1969 Mustang, My '70 FB was originally a six so I have no idea how much lower it is than stock but the air cleaner that I ended up using is a K&N 2 3/4" tall element (#KNN-E-3720 thru Summit). Again, it took a lot of work to get everything to fit under the stock hood. I had to go to a countersunk, flat head stainless bolt to hold the aircleaner lid down because a regular hex head would have hit the underside of the hood. I put a piece of wadded up tin foil on top of the aircleaner lid and closed the hood and it squished the foil down to about 3/16".

1969 Mustang, My '70 FB was originally a six so I have no idea how much lower it is than stock but the air cleaner that I ended up using is a K&N 2 3/4" tall element (#KNN-E-3720 thru Summit). Again, it took a lot of work to get everything to fit under the stock hood. I had to go to a countersunk, flat head stainless bolt to hold the aircleaner lid down because a regular hex head would have hit the underside of the hood. I put a piece of wadded up tin foil on top of the aircleaner lid and closed the hood and it squished the foil down to about 3/16".

It can be made to fit with a lot of work but it will come really close to the hood. I made my own motor mounts and air cleaner using a dropped base on my 427 windsor, rpm air gap mainfold with Quick fuel tech. carb.

The ratio is a 3:70 with 31 spline. Back lash is at .010, runout on ring gear is about .002 both radially and side to side. The only think I can visually see is the bearing that is on the end of the pinion gear ( held in by the circlip) appears loose. This bearing has no inner race but the cage that holds the bearings in place appears to be very loose. I can take my finger and spin the race and bearings around without having to move the pinion gear. I know this is not a press fit onto the pinion but I would think that it should have very little clearance. I will take it back to the last guy that set it up and see what he thinks.

Ever since I put my '70 together I have had what I think is gear whine from the rear end. Makes noise while at a constant speed above 45 mph in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. This was a completely new rear end when I first installed it. New bearings, ring and pinion, traction lock. At about 100 miles I pulled it out and had a new ring and pinion put in by another person and it still makes the same noise. Measured axles and I have about 1/4" clearance between end and spider gear pinion. Axles have brand new bearings and spin smoothly. Drive shaft has about 3/4" freeplay into the trans when rearend of car is at ride height. Pinion angle is within a .5 degree of being parallel (trans down at 2 deg. rear up at 1.5 deg). Noise goes away when you ascend or decend a mountain grade. I can't believe the noise is comming from the trans (it was new TKO 500 when installed) but I'm open to anyones suggestions or experiences. I don't know what it could be in the trans that would make that noise, that is, what is common to all three gears (3rd, 4th, 5th)? If it was a bearing then it would make the noise all of the time. I suspect something was amiss when the rearend was first assembled and the second person didn't pick up on it when he set up the second set of gears. Both people are quit knowledgeable and completent mechanics and are baffled. This thing is draving me bananas! Any suggestions, ideas, recommendations of a transmission shop that is quite knowledgeable regarding TKOs, location of a large cliff that I can drive it off of will be appreciated.

Are you sure that the front brake line is plumbed into the front brake port on the master cyl. and not reversed? Just a wild guess.

Here is a link to a previous answers. If this is not adequate then put in "headlight knob" in the search box at the top of the page and you will get a number of answers. Hope this helps. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8028&highlight=headlight+knob

I know there are many people that like the '69 models with the 4 headlights but I've always wanted a '70 and finially found one. One thing that I noticed on a lot of the '70s is that the trim piece on the leading edge of the hood typically did not align with the trim pieces that surround the headlights. In looking at a number of '69s I noticed that the curvature of the hood next to the headlight extensions match up better than those on a 70. I don't know if when Ford made the headlight extensions for the 70 that they put too much curvature in the extension because a lot of hoods don't seem to match the curve of the 70's extensions while they do on the 69's. I did not want to do a lot of work on my car and when done have a misaligned hood trim and headlight extension so here is what I did to make them match. To get the hood's curve to match the headlight extensions I had to make a releif cut with a die grinder into the bottom of the hood's frame, pulled it together and rewelded it giving the hood more curvature. This made the hood's profile parallel to the extension and also allowed the trim pieces to line up. I also went to the extent of drilling out some of the spotwelds on the front of each fender and repositioned the fender to match the extensions' shape (some of my friends think I am a little eccentric). These were stock fenders and stock extensions and they originally did not fit at all. Sometimes you have to put in a lot of work to get sheetmetal on these older cars to fit like they should have when they were made. I have lost the pics of the relief cut on the bottom of the hood but here is some pics of the headlight bucket on the fender before painting and some pics of the finished hood/extensions. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This strip is called a "hood molding support strip" and it is intended to be mounted on the leading edge of the hood (between the molding and the hood) I checked with my Ford body assembly manual. 1970 mustangs came with them, '69's did not. Mustangs Unlimited description for the support also indicates its placement.http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=70HMS+01

Question, does this molding attach to the backside of the hood's front lip? I thought it attaches between the molding and the hood and acts as a support for the molding.

russia2g, I sent you a private message regarding seats if you are interested.

I used the power window kit from Electric Life. I spent time cleaning and lubericating the window guides and alignment of window glass to body. They work really well. I had heard that they lacked power but I have not found this to be true. I used their rocker switches (part #4980-21-007) and mounted them in the center counsel to reduce the number of wires going into the driver's door. I have installed door speakers where the manual lift mechanisms were originally. Here is Electric Life's web side and a couple of pics http://electric-life.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=22&cat=2+Window+Switch+Kits Uploaded with ImageShack.us