amochoru

Specialfinds, I know it sounds dumb but go to http://www.classictube.com and search for "Floor to Muffler Hanger Plate" and "L&R hand Dual Exhaust Muffler Hanger". They make a complete kit to reinforce your floor pan and add the dual exhaust brackets as well as sell it all separately.

I might have a set I don't need anymore that I can sell you one from. I'll check in the garage tomorrow and send you a PM.

good to see another grabber green mustang show up on the board, don't see many of them. It'll be fun watching your build as you go through it.

Thanks guys. I had to repair some rust on the inner part of the rocker panel so after I cut away the old metal I was able to weld it in from the back of the rocker panel.

I am having a hard time understanding exactly how the nut that is used to hold the bottom of the fender to the rocker panel is supposed to be mounted to the rocker panel. When I bought the car both nuts were already gone and the bottom of the fenders were swinging free. I have two new nuts from AMK and I can see the rectangular hole in the rocker panel where the nut goes but I can't figure out how it is supposed to be mounted. I've included pictures of what the nut looks like. Does anyone have a picture of how it goes together?

I don't know if this will help satisify your curiosity but when I tore down my 70 Mach1 there was thermal switch mounted to the pillar right in front of the hole through the pillar that the wiring goes through for the drivers door. I'd have to take the dash cover off to prove it but I think the plug to this switch was the red one you're showing. I've included a pic the 69 I'm working on now which shows the small hole where the switch was in roughly the same spot as on my 70 which I assume most cars just have a rubber grommet plugging it up. My 70 came with as near as I can find a name for it, an Electronic Distributor Modulator system(blue box beside fuse box) which I've also included a pic of which seems to use the same type of connector. It appears the system controls vacuum advance on the distributor.

I don't know if this will help satisify your curiosity but when I tore down my 70 Mach1 there was thermal switch mounted to the pillar right in front of the hole through the pillar that the wiring goes through for the drivers door. I'd have to take the dash cover off to prove it but I think the plug to this switch was the red one you're showing. I've included a pic the 69 I'm working on now which shows the small hole where the switch was in roughly the same spot as on my 70 which I assume most cars just have a rubber grommet plugging it up. My 70 came with as near as I can find a name for it, an Electronic Distributor Modulator system(blue box beside fuse box) which I've also included a pic of which seems to use the same type of connector. It appears the system controls vacuum advance on the distributor.

Here are some pics of the battery cable routing on my 70 Mach. Starts off running behind the battery [ATTACH]9164[/ATTACH] Bolts up around the voltage regulator [ATTACH]9165[/ATTACH] Runs down to bolt onto the block [ATTACH]9166[/ATTACH] Couple of shots where it bolts to the voltage regulator [ATTACH]9167[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]9168[/ATTACH] Hope it helps

After months of tagging and bagging parts, vacuuming up pounds of dirt and rust chips every time a part came off and taking notes of what needs to be replaced, I finally have a starting point to do some actual restoration! My plan is to just start from the front and work back. I found holes in the steel fuel line where it went through the torque box but there was so much dirt and crud around it that there was no obvious leak. Lucky I didn't smoke when I was driving it. I'll keep posting pics of the work as it gets done since some of it will be a learning experience for me too. Half the fun of the hobby to me is pushing myself to do stuff I haven't done before.

I bought the car with a title and it is currently titled in Colorado. I have a marti report based off of the vin from the door and everything appears to match from what that vin says, including the paint color from places where I doubt they would have thought of to spray. I've ordered a marti report on the other vin to see if the color is the same as the vin in the fender as it seems to have the original blue around it. Here is a shot of the vin on the fender. Here is a shot of the fender from inside the engine compartment. Here is a shot of the vin plate from through the windshield. Here is the windshield plate from the inside. Here is the door one though I couldn't get a good enough shot of the vin number. Did the 428 Mustangs always have staggered rear shocks? This one doesn't.

I have a question concerning where you could find the different vin locations on a mustang. I know there is one on the drivers door and the tag that can be seen through the windows on the drivers side. The tag by the windshield has been cut off so up til now I have been going off ofmthe tag on the floor. I have heards that there was a serial number stamped on the drivers side engine compartment undrneath where the fender bolts on. I have found the number stamped here doesn't match the one riveted on the door. The engine compartment sheetmetal doesn't look replaced but one shows a 302 2v f code while the other vin in the compartment shows it as a 428 r code car. There is no buck tag bolted anywhere so I am wondering if there is another place where a vin could be located to settle which vin is right.

Thanks guys, I was thinking the same thing. It is mostly stripped down now, just the suspension is left. I found out today the cross member between the shock towers is welded to the car. I also found more rivets in the passenger floor pan right behind the seat pan but the floor seems solid. The underside of the floor is covered in undercoating so I don't exactly know the purpose of the rivets. What is the best way to remove rubberized undercoating?

I finally decided to start posting about my next restoration project, project elmo. My wife names the projects, makes her feel involved. Found out I need to have some neck surgery next week so I'll have some unplanned time to do some planning of where to start on this resto. I haven't taken on doing bodywork by myself before so I'll be asking some questions here on the forum about the best way to attack some of it. First question would be the best order in doing bodywork, should you media blast first then replace sheet metal or replace sheet metal then media blast the rest. Any pointers from previous experience will always be appreciated. I've included some pictures of where I'm starting from. Right now it is a 3024v, 4-spd with rust in the usual spots. This one is the standard shot of when it first rolled up the driveway and into the garage. These are a couple of shots showing some of the PO's previous "fixes", the patch panel was held in with two tack welds and a sheet metal screw on the left side plus a nice row of rivets at the bottom. This one makes me think he received a discount on buying pieces of patch metal. and finally the main reason why it wouldn't run. signature coming soon