Cruzzar

I painted both my dash and pass. side insert. My car was originally a 6 cyl. so I am basically restomodding it. I did exactly as MikeStang suggested reguarding the prep. I wanted the surfaces to look like they may be stock and to duplicate the plastic camera case finish I shot them with a rustoleum "hammer finish". Sanded them lightly to flatten out the sharp ridges and then shot with SEM satin black. Here's what the look like. They have not been installed yet, I am currently painting the rest of the car and hope to get it back together by the end of the summer. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I painted both my dash and pass. side insert. My car was originally a 6 cyl. so I am basically restomodding it. I did exactly as MikeStang suggested reguarding the prep. I wanted the surfaces to look like they may be stock and to duplicate the plastic camera case finish I shot them with a rustoleum "hammer finish". Sanded them lightly to flatten out the sharp ridges and then shot with SEM satin black. Here's what the look like. They have not been installed yet, I am currently painting the rest of the car and hope to get it back together by the end of the summer. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is not a hood badge but a sample of what could be done. I cut and fit the aluminum piece for the above glove box insert and had a friend CNC the '427 POWERED BY FORD'. Filled the lettering with paint, blocked sanded and polished it out. I will be running a 427 Windsor in my '70FB. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is not a hood badge but a sample of what could be done. I cut and fit the aluminum piece for the above glove box insert and had a friend CNC the '427 POWERED BY FORD'. Filled the lettering with paint, blocked sanded and polished it out. I will be running a 427 Windsor in my '70FB. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

There are a couple of possible problems. The switch itself has two nuts that hold it to the colume and it could have come loose. The switch itself has two slots that allow adjustment of the switch to insure that when the key is turned that the metal rod that is attached to the key switch pushes the contact points inside the switch far enough to make contact with the starter contact points. If the nuts come loose you will not be able to move the metal rod far enough. The two nuts can be reached by removing the lower plastic cover and (I think) you also have to remove the round cover that wraps around the column. If the nuts are still tight then the contact points inside the switch are probably bad and the switch will have to be replaced. Before doing any of the above steps I would verify that you are not getting any voltage out of the switch when you turn the key all of the way. You can check it at the starter selenoid (easiest) or at the wire connector under the dash (pita). If the switch is bad, finding an original '70 is going to be difficult. I don't think they are being reproduced, but a switch for a '71 or '72 is the same physical switch. The only difference is that some of the wires are a different color. You can just cut your old connector off of your old switch and splice it onto the new switch. Just make sure the position of each wire is the same after your are done. These switch are about $80. Mustangsplus use to stock them but I don't see a listing for them. You might check other suppliers. I hope this helps.

There are a couple of possible problems. The switch itself has two nuts that hold it to the colume and it could have come loose. The switch itself has two slots that allow adjustment of the switch to insure that when the key is turned that the metal rod that is attached to the key switch pushes the contact points inside the switch far enough to make contact with the starter contact points. If the nuts come loose you will not be able to move the metal rod far enough. The two nuts can be reached by removing the lower plastic cover and (I think) you also have to remove the round cover that wraps around the column. If the nuts are still tight then the contact points inside the switch are probably bad and the switch will have to be replaced. Before doing any of the above steps I would verify that you are not getting any voltage out of the switch when you turn the key all of the way. You can check it at the starter selenoid (easiest) or at the wire connector under the dash (pita). If the switch is bad, finding an original '70 is going to be difficult. I don't think they are being reproduced, but a switch for a '71 or '72 is the same physical switch. The only difference is that some of the wires are a different color. You can just cut your old connector off of your old switch and splice it onto the new switch. Just make sure the position of each wire is the same after your are done. These switch are about $80. Mustangsplus use to stock them but I don't see a listing for them. You might check other suppliers. I hope this helps.

Here's a couple.

Here's a couple.

How about this.

Here's some pics of what you need. The lines don't look real straight but part of that is the different angles of the firewall. The vertical dimensions are taken from the top of the steering column hole and horizontal dimensions are from the center of the master cylinder hole. I have filled all the holes in my firewall so in order to mount the gas pedal I have welded 1/4" bolts to the inside. The dimensions I have are to the centers of these two bolts. I believe these to be pretty accurate.

I made all of the linkeages (bellcranks) and brackets. I am lucky to have a mill and lathe and realize that this fix is not for everyone but thought I would share and provide an option for hooking up the cables. It really resolves a lot of problems with attachment to the brake lever. I will use all stock emergency brake parts. I am useing Lokar cables and will cut them to length and use these cable ends that I made to hook the cables together. It should look almost stock from underneath the car.

This is in response to several people asking what to do about hooking up the center pull emergency brake cables. Some people have been able to route them up the center tunnel and use a hand brake lever. I wished to retain my foot operated safety brake and felt the only way to get the cables going in the stock direction was to modify (cut up ((gulp))!!!!) my caliper brackets. The brakes are the Baer 13" Track rear disks that position the cable going directly toward the opposite side of the car. In order to get them going toward the front I had to make a bellcrank to change the direction 90 degrees. This entailed cutting and welding up new support brackets. This is not a change that is easy to do but the results put the cable right back in the stock position. I will be running air rides and therefore only have a locating bar instead of a leaf spring. The caliper brackets allow you clock the calipers in several different angles if you were to run stock leaf springs allowing this mod to work. Here's some pics. Stock brake setup. Stock backet on right, modified bracket on left. Bellcranks and brackets. Finished bracket. Side view of finished installation. Top view.

I looks to me that the 'button' is the switch that operates the light when you open the glove box door. There should be a hole for it to plug into somewhere behind the glove box door. Make sure that the outside of this button switch makes a good ground when you plug it into the hole otherwise it wont work. The sliding switch is used when you want to operate the light without opening the glove box door. I do not have this feature on my '70 but I believe this is correct just by looking at the wireing.

Three should do it without doing the dash pad.

Here's a link with discussion regarding this set up. The 302 is physcially about 1" shorter in overall height than a 351W. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7361&highlight=airgap

Shock tower supports are always good but require the engine to be out to have them welded in. Some people apply additional welds to the where the shock towers meet the inner panels (again if you have the engine out).

Did this cover fit before you took it off? If it was not on there to begin with, is it possible that it is for a '70? I believe they are slightly different than a '69.

The bezel is retained by a threaded cylinder that has a slot in it. I have used a snap ring pliers to unscrew this cylinder. The pliers will straddle the center shaft and allow you to engage the slots and unscrew them. Here is a previous post that I have included that shows a pic of a headlight switch. The stock switch is the same as the intermittent switch that I showed. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7987&highlight=wiper+switch

All the motors (I believe) are two speed motors from '67 to '73. I suspect the intermittent part of the system is done electronically by a box and not by the wiper motor. I don't have any actual experience with the stock intermittent system on the '69 or '70's though, sorry. I do have experience with the intermittent switches that can be found in '77-88 Ford F150 and Broncos. Not all of these vehicles came with the intermittent option, usually they did if they had the custom cab option. If you find a vehicle that you think has an intermittent switch it is easy to verify. The switch (from the off postion) will rotate clockwise to 2 postions the first for low speed and the second to high just like your stock mustang does. If it has the intermittent system you will be able to rotate the switch (from the off postion) counterclockwise. The more you rotate it the longer the delay between wipes. From the donor vehicle you will need to pull the switch and the govenor box which is wired together with a few wires that is about 8" away (some models have longer wires). You must get the switch you can not use your stock switch in this set up. The new switch will accept your stock bezel and knob. Here's a pic of what you need in the form of a switch and govenor box and also the stock parts to install (in my case it is for my '70FB). I am rewireing my entire mustang and therefor will simple splice the new switch's wires to my two speed wiper motor. The new switch has 6 wires comming from the intermittent switches's/govenor pigtale. The black w green is the 12v power in. The black w white stripe is the power out to your windshield wiper's fluid motor. It is activated by simply pushing in on the wiper knob. The blue w orange attaches to the blue wire from the motor. The red wire attaches to the red wire from the motor. The white wire attaches to the yellow wire from the motor. The black w purple (sometimes black w red) attaches to the black wire from the motor. The black wire that is attached to the switch inself is a ground wire. These switches at my local 'pic a part' usually go for about $20. While this would not hold up for judged competition it is a simple mod that can be done very cheaply and is probably a lot easier to locate than a stock setup. I hope this helps.

If it is a sealed bearing then you don't lube it at all. Sealed for life.

To help clearify the adjustment of the hood. After you loosen the hinges you will need to have someone open the hood all the way up and with a little pressure, push the hood up even higher so that the hinges rotate in the same direction that the hood is going and then tighten the bolts on the hinges. If you don't open the hood enough to rotate the hinges this system will not do anything for lowering the ends of the hood. I hope this will work and be careful of the paint.

Remove the windshield wiper arms. Open the hood and you will see small (about 8-10, 1/4" head I think) bolts that hold the cowl (the piece of metal just in front of the windshield) to the body. There may be several other screws but you shoulld be able to find them. Once the cowl is removed you will see the wiper motor. To remove the motor you have to remove the arm at the end of the motor, it is held on with a clip. The motor is attached to a bracket and the bracket is attached with three bolts. Undo the three bolts and the motor can be removed after you unplug the wires (and rubber grommet) that go thru the firewall. This should get the motor out of the car. This should be a two speed motor (67-73 mustangs are all the same). A rebuilt one will cost about $80. There are a lot of applications that Ford put these motors in (besides mustangs) and can be found in a junk yard or pick a part. I hope I haven't left out something. Good luck

For the 2 motor plates that bolt directly onto the engine block and have the slot for front to back adjustment I used 5/16". For the 4 tower brackets and the 2 rectangular back up plates that mount on top of the adjuster slot on the motor plates, I use 3/16". All of the other pieces, I used 1/4". I believe that these are the same thicknesses that the RM mounts use. All bolts are grade 8 4-3/8 x 3 1/2 NC 4-3/8 x 1 1/4 NC 2-1/2 x 3 1/2 NC Here are two pics of the finished project. If I were to make these again, I would not make the slot in the motor bracket that long. You could probably make it half that length. I should have checked this distance when I mocked up my motor in my '70 but didn't and therefor made it similiar to the length of RM's.

I also looked at the RM mounts and decided that there wasn't anything that I could add to an already great design. I didn't post my results because I felt that I didn't have anything to add to his work. I actually felt funny just copying his design but I have a mill, lathe, tig welder and all the raw materials already in my shop except the bushing which I purchased at a 4 wheel drive shop for about $18.

I did the same thing that you are doing. One suggestion that I would make is to not cut out the hole for the motor mount bolt in the tower brackets. Wait until you get the other brackets done, installed and engine mounted in the car and then you can postion the motor as low as possible (without interferring with steering linkage, etc.) Then you can transfer punch where the bolt hole should go and then finish cutting the metal to center the radius around this hole. You may or may not find that the hole is any different than stock but lowering the motor can help if your putting a TKO trans in, adjusting for header clearance, running an Edelbrock AipGap manifold as well as lowering the CG for better handeling. Here's a pic of one of mine, its since been power coated.