Kiwi John

It's been a long time since I've been on this site, now retired I have more time to talk Mustangs. Question, I have a 69stang.com email address that I haven't used in quite a while, now that I'm looking at using it again I cannot find where to find the emails? Anyone know where to look?

Check out my car in this new music video by Hoszia Hinds. A great sound and a great car! Hoszia is on tour in Canada, I hooked up with him to do a shoot in my car, it's short but it's there. He is from Barbados and this is his second video, he has a lot of songs on cd's as well. He will be touring the US next. http://youtu.be/-7nKoiWdJ6E John

WoW that was a fast pass.....congrats

Hey RPM What rear calipers will you be using and why did you pick the 01 V6 MC? Will it fit the stock 69 booster? Are you by-passing / leaving out the stock rear proportioning valve and / or will you be adding an aftermarket proportioning valve to balance the front and rear systems? if so, on the front or rear system. John

http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c388/428CobraJet/Cheap%20Chinese%20car/?action=view&current=CheapcarfromChinac.mp4 Enjoy

I think the door cups (where you put your hand in) are different lengths. Metal ones are available so don't buy plastic ones.

look at the ends of the rear axles, if you see 2 drilled holes opposite each other the axles are 31 spline (cj) if there is a large cast indentation they are reg 28 spline axles. There are no hub caps on it so it should be right there in the wheel hole.

It was all manual transmission cars that had staggered shocks, auto's did not, even scj auto's did not. cj's came stock with 3:50 gears, correct me if I'm wrong, if you ordered 3:91 or 4:30 then you got the scj (drag pac) Traction loc was standard with these gears with the Detroit Locker optional. Ford thought if you were ordering these gears you were going drag racing so they beefed up the bottom end for reliability. Not more hp just stronger.

Make sure the heads have 4 bolt holes for the exhaust manifolds, CJ heads and manifolds always had 4 any other heads had 2 each port. CJ's also had a steel protective bracket that went around the heater motor to protect it from the close proximity of the manifolds. The rear end looks good, there should be a big "N" cast into the middle square area of the carrier just above the bumper bkt. N (high nodular iron) case carriers are rare and worth a lot.

Hey Ash I hope all goes well with your daughter. You are doing an amazing (I sound like Jessica Watson):) job of restoring your car, it is a lot of work I know, but enjoyable. I had to do a lot of the work you are doing too and it seems never ending, but hang in there, it does come to the end and is very rewarding then. I did everything on mine myself, and when you do, like you, there is great satisfaction when it is finished. Mine took years to finish as I was busy with other things also (stock car racing, motorcycles etc), in the end, you look at what you created and wow what a feeling. Look at my gallery to see what I started with. Keep up the good work! and you are right, family comes first.... John

dsc2 I have always done my own alignments. I use a caster camber gauge (bubble levels, from Speedway Motors), it comes with a magnetic adapter that snaps right onto your rotor after you remove the grease cap. Check out Speedway Motors, they have great stuff at reasonable prices. For the toe in I use toe bars but you can use any two straight pieces of wood, have someone help you hold the wood on the opposite side while you shoot the tape measure across in front of and behind the wheels, measure about 6" up. The toe in will be the difference between the back and front measurements, probably should be 1/8"-3/16" Each time you measure after adjusting roll the car back 6 feet or so then roll it forward again to set the wheels. Do this on a flat floor. For the Camber, the gauge reads directly in degrees, if you don't have castor camber gauge a straight edge and level gauge that reads in degrees will do. I make my wheels pretty straight up so you could even use a regular bubble level holding it vertically on the tires. For the castor, it is best to have a CC gauge, again, if you don,t, you can manually measure the angle the top and bottom ball joints are on, the top should be leaning back. A couple of pieces of sheet metal under each wheel will help them revolve under load if using the CC gauge. I spent a few years setting up my own oval track race cars, same stuff. I hope this helps

Are your rear brake shoes adjusted up snug so that the drums just drag when turned? To me, this seams to be a possibility.

Are your rear brake shoes adjusted up snug so that the drums just drag when turned? To me, this seams to be a possibility.

I did go in the showroom in 1969 and pick out the color of my Mach1, as I walked in, I saw a Shelby gt500 convertable in Gulfstream aqua and knew then and there that was the color I wanted so I went over to the salesman and ordered my Mach1. Geez, I did not know what those Shelby cars were anyway, all I wanted was the Mach. Also in the showroom were Bosses, a little 302 and a 429.....one had too little a engine and the other would be a pig on gas!!! so I got the 351 4v 4 speed ??? Duh. The car I have now is a different one, I restored this one and painted it.....you guessed it....GSA and added front and rear spoilers.

This is how I did mine... I restored the rear fender aprons and welded in new front aprons, before I welded them in I had to straighten the collapsed shock towers back to the original position. I bought a new one piece shock tower Export brace, these are very rigid and the holes are very precise and spaced apart correctly, it makes a perfect template, does not cost much and is a great improvement over the original flimsy braces. I bent the towers back by using a piece of 4x4 wood and a bottle jack, the wood is seated down low where the engine mount attaches and angles up and across to the top of the tower on the opposite side, the jack on top and in line with the wood. Install the lower frame cross brace, the one that goes under the engine pan when together. Jack each side out a little at a time and take cross measurements from the top down to the opposite engine mount area criss cross style until both measurements are the same and the Shelby brace lines up with the holes in the top of both towers. This worked great and was easy to do. I do not know what the measurement across the towers is or was but the Shelby brace will only fit when it is right on. I hope this helps..... John