PaleRider

You dont have to change axles or yoke. You can buy a center section with gears and limited slip already done. If you look at the thread I posted there is a guy that sells threm thru ebay where a number of us had good luck with Or you can buy limited slip ang gears and have someone that can do it fort you locally I'm running an 8" with myu 347 - its about 400 hp/400 tq and no problems. I've heard of people throwing at lot more at them

He did mention he pulled them real tight and maybe even too tight. But he thought it was necessary to get the seams to line up with the edges.

Good thread on options http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10660

Did mine twice - did not take complete lower out but had to do as stated above to get room.

I did mine and it did not have a metal ring. I ended up making my own rings using some roof flashing I had laying around. I did not remove my window but actually tucked under rubber as already suggested. Only difference is I sprayed some adhesice on it prior to that.

I'll try that - thanks for the tip You'd think since I bought their foam it would fit better.

A little surprised also. He put new burlap, refoamed the rear seat, filled and wired brushed and painted springs and tracks. So did a little more than I expected. He said he didnot like it either and could have fit better better but would have had to cut the fabric and resew.

Got my seats back and defintely not too excited about the way they turned out. The guy that did them for me said once they stretch a little the wrinknles may come out - otherwise he said he could take them off and cut and resew. Since it is in the back won't be that noticeable but for the money expected better. Passenger seat a little better but similiar. I'm assuming it the materai and not the upholsterer but who knows. That the problem with this aftermarket stuff. Back seat came out nice.

thats it

thats it

I thought it was a little steep. Other quote I got was for about the same amount. I've got a 66 vert I'm retoring also. Doing most of the work myself - just a case of picking my battles.

I thought it was a little steep. Other quote I got was for about the same amount. I've got a 66 vert I'm retoring also. Doing most of the work myself - just a case of picking my battles.

Thats what I'm banking on - should get mine back this weekend. Was expensive though. Costing me $400 to have done.

Thats what I'm banking on - should get mine back this weekend. Was expensive though. Costing me $400 to have done.

Just easier to turn and would put less stress on ends.

Just easier to turn and would put less stress on ends.

Now I'm getting a little nervous - I bought the sports seats when on sale end of year. Upholstery guy picked them up Saturday. I'll give you my 2 cents and pictures as soon as I get them back.

Now I'm getting a little nervous - I bought the sports seats when on sale end of year. Upholstery guy picked them up Saturday. I'll give you my 2 cents and pictures as soon as I get them back.

Should be ok - just get the car rolling before you turn the wheels.

Should be ok - just get the car rolling before you turn the wheels.

You dont need both power steering control valve and kit. The kit is for you to rebuild the control valve. If you buy the power steering control valve it has already been rebuilt. I decided to rebuild it myself. I figured if I messed it up I can alway buy the rebuilt one for a couple hundred dollars. The shop manuals have a good breakdown of the rebuild process and it you buy thru stangersite kit it has very good instruction also. Took me about 2 hours to rebuild - I have never done one. If you have done a carb or can follow instructions pretty good I would try the kit first. The kit at Stangersite site is more complete than what you get from autozone - for one it has the hose seats which you should replace. http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1003_how_to_install_integral_power_steering_gear/viewall.html Good luck it's not that bad to do. I think you will surpise yourself. Also take your hoses with you when you pick them up at autozone. Might have been just my car but they were not the same as what I took off. The smaller hoses going to the power cylinder from contol valve fit fine but the hoses to and from the pump were different sizes. I ended up taking them to a place that did hydrualic hose repair and hads them put new hoses on orginal fittings. BTW - If you are doing all this you may want to consider Borgeson set up. I'm planning on doing that on my 66. It is actually a better design than OEM ford setup. Someone had a post a while ago about some issues they had on the swap but I've seen a lot other posts that had positive outcomes. Might be worth a little research

You dont need both power steering control valve and kit. The kit is for you to rebuild the control valve. If you buy the power steering control valve it has already been rebuilt. I decided to rebuild it myself. I figured if I messed it up I can alway buy the rebuilt one for a couple hundred dollars. The shop manuals have a good breakdown of the rebuild process and it you buy thru stangersite kit it has very good instruction also. Took me about 2 hours to rebuild - I have never done one. If you have done a carb or can follow instructions pretty good I would try the kit first. The kit at Stangersite site is more complete than what you get from autozone - for one it has the hose seats which you should replace. http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1003_how_to_install_integral_power_steering_gear/viewall.html Good luck it's not that bad to do. I think you will surpise yourself. Also take your hoses with you when you pick them up at autozone. Might have been just my car but they were not the same as what I took off. The smaller hoses going to the power cylinder from contol valve fit fine but the hoses to and from the pump were different sizes. I ended up taking them to a place that did hydrualic hose repair and hads them put new hoses on orginal fittings. BTW - If you are doing all this you may want to consider Borgeson set up. I'm planning on doing that on my 66. It is actually a better design than OEM ford setup. Someone had a post a while ago about some issues they had on the swap but I've seen a lot other posts that had positive outcomes. Might be worth a little research

I did my control valve - not too dificult. Power cylnder does not look to bad. I head the steering box is tought to do and better off sendoing out. The pump and hoses you can still buy thru Napa.

I did my control valve - not too dificult. Power cylnder does not look to bad. I head the steering box is tought to do and better off sendoing out. The pump and hoses you can still buy thru Napa.

for sound deadner I used a dynmat type product that went onside of door skins sticks well and gives a very solid feel to the doors. In any case sounds like a good overall plan