Burn

The engine and transmission are in! I had to modify one of the header tubes on the drivers side to get the z bar to work properly. I hope it doesn't hurt the performance too much. It's about half the original diameter. I'll be working on installing the dash and steering column today.

I got a pre-bent 4 point Competition Engineering setup from Advanced Auto Parts for under $80. The main loop part number is C3039 and the two formed rear struts # C3185. I picked it up in their store so no shipping fee! http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/CategoryDisplay.asp?CatCode=11006

Sweet Z-bar setup. Did you make most the parts or did you get them at the hardware store?

The progress is picking back up. Let’s see, I’m almost finished reassembling the dash and steering column. I took it all apart; media blasted and repainted it all. New bearings and grease should make the steering real nice. This week I’ll have the transmission pressure plate bolts delivered. I had to order these special since no one in town had them. They have to be "shoulder" bolts to keep alignment of the plate correct and true. (edit: Mr. Gasket #911) After I have the clutch installed I'm going to bolt up the 4-speed and the motor will be ready to stab in. I've also been spending my income tax refund on new harnesses for the whole car. I decide to have Midlife Harness Restorations restore my under dash harness since I couldn’t afford a brand new one. The other harnesses (engine, taillight, head light, hood scoop turn signal, and door speaker) are all brand new purchased from CJ Pony and John’s Mustang. The new harnesses look original and have stock plugs. I debated on getting the Painless Kit, but I really wanted a painless experience and a stock look. I ended up paying a little over $100 more than if I went with the Painless kit. Next is to start buying some interior stuff. I think I’ll go with the ACC carpet and TMI seat covers. Does anyone have any good or bad experience with either of these brands?

Thanks for the part number. I'll get those ordered. Its nice to know if don't have to mess with the offset dowels. Thanks! Jim

I'd be interested in the timing cover and distributor. pm me what you want for them. Thanks. Jim

I went with the Centerforce dual friction 11" clutch and pressure plate combo and had the flywheel resurfaced. I now have a couple of questions. I read through the Centerforce papers and they're telling me to get the special pressure plate bolts. Where the heck can I get these at? I've check about 5-6 bolt/hardware stores and no one has them. I've also check two separate Ford dealerships and they cant find a part number for them. I think they're supposed to be 7/16 -18, shoulder bolt, 1" total length, grade 8. I have found the bolts, but none of them are shouldered and Centerforce specifically says to use "Shoulder" bolts or expect misalignment/chatter/... Second question: Is it necessary to check the bellhousing alignment on a stock Ford bellhousing? I only see this (online) being done on aftermarket bellhousings. If I need to check it whats the easiest way and where the heck would the offset dowel pins go. I have two studs protruding from the back of the block that help line up the bellhousing to the block. Are these called alignment dowels? This 4 speed install is a pain in my :asshole: so far.

Okay, my rear tires are 27.1" so I'll get the 19 tooth. The gear on the transmission is on the passenger side so would that be a right drive?

I have a toploader 4 speed with a (Black) 7 tooth gear drive and was wondering which speedometer gear to buy. What makes this difficult is that my tires are staggered. 26.1" dia. in the front and 27.1" dia. in the rear...running 3.70 axle ratio. The calculator on this site TCI says 19.99 (20 tooth ?) for the 26.1" and then 19.25 (19 tooth ?) for the 27.1" tires. Maybe I'm analyzing this too much, but do i round up or down, do I take an average between the two numbers and then choose...or should I not round the numbers and since both are 19.??, it would be a 19 tooth? :helpsmilie: Thanks.

Remove the cowl and you'll see it on the drivers side. Its easy to remove. No need to remove the dash pad.

Jsams, how do like the dual friction Centerforce? How's the pedal pressure feel? Is everyone still using the assisted spring on the clutch pedal or is it no longer needed with the diaphragm type pressure plates?

Nice progress. Seems like you're getting close to getting her on the road. Got any pictures?

Thats good news to hear. Now all I need to do is see if my pressure plate will work with a 11" clutch. I'll chat with Zoom about that. Thanks.

Cool! Post some pictures if you can. Any rubbing issues?

This weekend I was working on my car and remembered this post. These pictures show no upper control arm rubbing issues running 235/60 15 BFG's with 15x7 Mag 500's with 4" BS. There's about a 1/2" clearance. I'll have the fenders back on in a few weeks. They're rolled like the Boss 302's, so I doubt I'll have rubbing issues. Brianrupp78, what did you end up going with?

I came across this Craigslist ad for a '69 Vert for $12k OBO today. It looks to be a heck of a deal for a Vert lover. Its located near Austin, TX. http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1669981286.html I would be all over this if I had the money and a place to keep it.

I recently bought a 164-tooth C5AE-6380-E flywheel for my 351W. Does anyone know the largest clutch I can run? Mustangtek says 10" or 10.5", but other sites say 11". I already have a new 10", but if I can run 11" I will. Thanks! Jim

That was Awesome!!! Burn baby Burn!

1969 motors should be Ford Corporate Blue (Dark Ford Blue). Here's a nice article on Mustang Monthly's website called "How to Paint Your Engine and Choose the Correct Color" http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0308_paints_engines/index2.html

I just recieved my parts from John's Mustang and everything is in perfect condition. One day delivery is awesome! I'll buy from them again!

I placed a phone order with them today and had no issues. 3 hrs after I placed the order I received an e-mail that included the tracking number and a sales receipt. I live in Dallas so I hope to get the part tomorrow or the next day. I'll let you know how it goes. So far I'm really happy with the service.

Thanks for all the great info. It seems that I cant go wrong with either mechanical or vac secondaries, but I'll probably go with the Summit racing 750 mechanical sec w/ annual boosters. I like the fact that it's a Holley design, it's similar to the one piece Autolite 4100. It's also in my price range, brand new and comes with a tuning DVD. My rookie butt will need that video. Thanks again for all the info. Jim "Burn"

Thanks for all the great info. It seems that I cant go wrong with either mechanical or vac secondaries, but I'll probably go with the Summit racing 750 mechanical sec w/ annual boosters. I like the fact that it's a Holley design, it's similar to the one piece Autolite 4100. It's also in my price range, brand new and comes with a tuning DVD. My rookie butt will need that video. Thanks again for all the info. Jim "Burn"

Thanks for the comments, guys. There's a Barry Grant Demon 750 on eBay right now going for $310. I'll see how much it ends up going for. The Summit racing carb looks like you get a lot for your money. I wonder how good the reviews are. Summit website says they carry both vac secondaries and mechanical secondaries models and only the mech. sec has annular boosters. Would the summit mechanical be a good carb or should I stick with a Holley or BG? Decisions...Decisions....

Thanks for the comments, guys. There's a Barry Grant Demon 750 on eBay right now going for $310. I'll see how much it ends up going for. The Summit racing carb looks like you get a lot for your money. I wonder how good the reviews are. Summit website says they carry both vac secondaries and mechanical secondaries models and only the mech. sec has annular boosters. Would the summit mechanical be a good carb or should I stick with a Holley or BG? Decisions...Decisions....