SlimeGold 69

Hey, Mopar guys are cool in my book. Most Ford people don't brag or try to preach there "Ford propaganda". You must have been hanging around a Chevy forum because that sounds more like them. I'm just kidding:tongue_smilie:. I think you will find this is more of a 69 Mustang site with people who love old cars in general, not just all Ford. Welcome and good luck.

Think how many people where killed before cars had seat belts. You could go back years and blame all car makers for flaws. I have family members that lost there lives back in the 50's in a bad wreck and no body blamed the car ( it was a early 50's Chevy with a floor shifter that impaled one of them). However the drop in fuel tank was never a good idea and they should have been some kind of steel devider behind the seat from the factory. The Mustang was not the only one to have this. Falcons, Comets, the early Chevy II's and 73 up full size Chevy trucks with the tank outside of the frame on the side. That was a big deal some years back also if you remember.

Glad to hear you have oil pressure! Maybe the "diesel" sound you heard was just the lifters not having time to completly pump up. I would have freaked out too if the guage was flat and it was ticking. Could be some assembly lube in the oil making it look milky. I have never seen fuel cause oil to look milky but it's possible I guess. You could let it set for a while and loosen the drain plug in the pan. If there is antifreeze in the pan it will trickle out first before the oil. If you have used different heads, intake and block did you end up with the same timing cover? That's about all that's left that would leak coolant into the oil.

I have run into this problem before a couple of times and I hate to say it but the new oil pump was the problem both times. One locked up only a few seconds of running and twisted the pump drive shaft in two (also high volume pumps are good for twisting shafts and eating up dizzy gears). The other one the check valve was stuck in the pump. I make it a practice now to tear down new oil pumps and check them out. Make sure the check valve moves free in the bore (just about everyone I have tore down sticks to some degree), and check the rotors for binding and rubbing on the top cover when put back together. Also while it's apart prime it good with some thick motor oil. I may be wrong but if you had pressure by cranking and then none after it fired (check with a mechanical guage and drill to make sure) I would say something screwed up in the pump or you blew out one of oil gallery plugs in the block somewhere. I have also seen the check-valve get stuck the other way and the pump builds so much pressure that the oil filter exploded. So that could also cause one of the plugs to blow out first. Screw in plugs are always a good idea, but checking your new pump first is the best idea.

That may be true about Detroit, and if so then the unit numbers and production dates compared to the other 2 plants would get farther apart as the year went by.

I think each plant started with it's own numbers and I'm sure some plants produced more cars at times during the 69 production year than others.. But each plant built more than just Mustangs and the unit numbers where just that, unit count of all 69 vehicles produced per location, be it a Cougar at 155316 then the next a Mustang at 155317. So the chances of the numbers and dates from one plant to another being the same or very close are slim. That's the way I understand it worked but I may be wrong and I may have just confused you more.

That's cool Tom. Congrats! Definitly a car worth investing some money into and one of the few GT's left...and being a GT coupe makes it even more rare. Nice find!

Yea, buy a new fuel pump but get a new or clean out the gas tank and also check or replace the pickup tube/fuel guage sending unit in the tank ( the part that will come out of the top of the tank when you get it off). It's held on by a large ring you need to knock around to remove. They will usualy stop up and cause you all kinds of problems. It has a little filter on the end where it sucks the gas out of the tank and it will probably be filthy or rotten and the line could be gummed up in the unit. No use putting a new pump on just to suck a bunch of junk into it. But I'm sure you plan on all that. If you run into any problems, just ask. I'm sure most of us have been there/done that when fooling with old cars. I know I have.

Input shaft length is longer on 94 up T5's. If you plan on using a vintage toploader bell housing with the adapter you need the shorter 83-93 Mustang V8 T5 or you can change to a shorter input shaft if you have the 94-95 trans. You can use the 83-93 T5 trans with a 86-93 bellhousing if you want to buy or fab a cable system. Should be a tag under one of the tailshaft bolts with the ID numbers. Find it and search the net for easy to find ID charts. Make sure you have a V8 trans and not a 4 banger box!

Box that ties the frame rails to the rockers.

My fault. I was thinking the PO told you it was a Cleveland.

That's a Windsor and not a Cleveland. You did say it had a 351C didn't you? Looks pretty good under there.

Yea, that's what I did a few years back. I just cut the automatic brake metal foot pad with it still in the car and just added the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal uses it's own pivot shaft in a power brake car so it's pretty simple to add even with everything still bolted in under the dash. ( a manual brake car with a clutch pedal share the same pivot shaft that's made onto the clutch pedal). I used a clutch pedal out of a 70 manual brake car and it fit with no problems. There where soft metal bushings already in the pedal support from the factory for the clutch pedal and it slid right in. The PB pedal pivots higher in the support on it's own shaft so just leave it alone. What you need is the clutch pedal, 2 plastic bushings for the pivot shaft, retaining clip, cut-off wheel, template for the brake pedal pad and the proper manual rubber pedal pads. If you plan on using the original style rod linkage there are more parts to find like the return spring and bracket. Looks original when done and you have a power brake clutch pedal set-up for alot less beans than buying a complete PB unit for $500+ bucks off ebay.

Looks like a smokin deal from here. Do you have pics of under the hood?

LOL..Congrats! Looks like you found a very late production coupe.... or your not kidding about smoking crack:tongue_smilie:.

M engine code for 69 indicates 351W 4 barrel, starting in 70 it would be Cleveland. No Clevelands in 69. If it has a Cleveland it has been installed in the car by a PO which is a common swap to come across.

Could be a GT but if not it still sounds like a interesting coupe. From the info you posted it was originaly a 351W 4 barrel with a 4 speed, 3.25 gear and Black Jade. Nice options. Just as always check for rust and body damage. If the guy is serious about selling he will let you get it out in the daylight so you can look it over. I don't think there are many people left these days who have classic mustangs for sale that "don't know what they have" so just check it out good. Make your decision to buy on the condition of the body, top and bottom, rather than if it will start. Engine work is nothing compared to a car that's rusty in bad places.

I think this is some kind of internal code at Ford at the time. My 999 report from Ford ONLY says my transmission was a "XP type" when in fact it was a plain old C4 automatic. It has the body code 02 listed as 2 door Fastback Ford Mustang Luxury. I don't know where the luxury came from. It's well known the 02 body code is for every Sportsroof from a 6cyl car to a Boss 429. There are some odd option descriptions on the 999 report compared to most of the decoding info you see everywhere (IE Marti Report) etc.

I think where the difference comes in between body styles may be the frame mounts/brackets. The brackets on a vert might be mounted higher or a different design that would take a shorter motor mount to make the engine set at the same level as a coupe/fastback. Why??? I'm not sure, maybe a heavy duty design to help with body flex, but alot of Ford vert cars, even up to the 90's with fox body Stangs have vert only motor mounts. From the pics it does look like the engine is setting high to me.

I run a 600 Holley DP, not a proform but same cfm and basics. I have 68's in the primary and 72 seconds. Original 302 with .030 over (around 10:1 cr), Crane Energizer Cam 484 lift. 216@050. 110 LSA, E-Brock RPM intake, ported 69 302 heads 1.94 and 1.60 valves, roller rockers, long headers, 5 speed with 3.50 gears. Jetting is close if not perfect as far as I can tell. No AF guage just plug reading. I'm way higher in altitude than you tho.

Wish I could make it. There is no Ford/Mustang shows close to me now. I used to go to every Fun Ford Weekend at Bristol Dragway (about 1hr drive for me) but that is no more. It was mostly late model stuff but It was a all Ford event with a car show, swap meet and tons of vendors. Myrtle Beach is about a 6 hour drive. I did find a upcoming event (NMRA Ford Nationals) at Lowe's Speedway NC in Aug. I was thinking about making the 190mi trip if it's worth it. Anyone ever been??? Sorry to hijack!

I worry about this alot now that I'm about ready to tag my wife's 65 coupe and more so because of my 6 yo daughter riding with her. I think of the older Stangs (more 65-67) as death traps because of the solid steering column shaft, no headrest, the old exploding gas tank fear and single master brakes. But all of that stuff can/will be upgraded. I already installed a dual master cylinder, seat belts in front and back and a steel trunk wall behind the seat. With my little girl wanting to ride with us all the time I will try to make it as safe as possible. Disk brakes are next.

If you end up with it, take some pics and post them. Sounds like a good fixer-upper and drive-her.

Lucky dog. With only 45,000 miles, sounds like it would be good deal if you could get it cheap enough. Is it a 5 speed?

Might just be a vacume leak somewhere. Yes..a valve stuck open ( I have never seen that unless it's bent) would cause a major leak but I would look elsewhere first, like around the intake, carb, fittings, etc.