SlimeGold 69

Your welcome and sorry I didn't get one of the pedal. It's just too far under the dash. I tried tho.

Your welcome and sorry I didn't get one of the pedal. It's just too far under the dash. I tried tho.

Your welcome and sorry I didn't get one of the pedal. It's just too far under the dash. I tried tho.

Here are a few pics of the cable coming thru the firewall with the support braket and one of how tight it gets with longtubes on the bottom. I tried to get pics of under the dash but there is just not enough room. It's tight under there and I had the front seats out for more room when I was working on the clutch pedal. The pedal mod included welding a simple extension on top of the pedal ( It's a 1" wide piece of thick bar stock only around 2" or so in length), and welding the pin or some kind of attatching point on to the extension for the cable. There is not much room under the dash so many mock-ups and lots of measuring was needed. The cable has a plastic bushing inside the metal hoop and the pin I found fit nice with no slack. What it came off of, I have no idea. It was only around 1 1/2" long and already had a small hole for a retaining key once the cable slid over it. Here is a link to e-pay with the 79 cable and good picture of the ends. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-FORD-MUSTANG-Clutch-Cable-ATP-Y144_W0QQitemZ160409777324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25592af4ac

Here are a few pics of the cable coming thru the firewall with the support braket and one of how tight it gets with longtubes on the bottom. I tried to get pics of under the dash but there is just not enough room. It's tight under there and I had the front seats out for more room when I was working on the clutch pedal. The pedal mod included welding a simple extension on top of the pedal ( It's a 1" wide piece of thick bar stock only around 2" or so in length), and welding the pin or some kind of attatching point on to the extension for the cable. There is not much room under the dash so many mock-ups and lots of measuring was needed. The cable has a plastic bushing inside the metal hoop and the pin I found fit nice with no slack. What it came off of, I have no idea. It was only around 1 1/2" long and already had a small hole for a retaining key once the cable slid over it. Here is a link to e-pay with the 79 cable and good picture of the ends. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-FORD-MUSTANG-Clutch-Cable-ATP-Y144_W0QQitemZ160409777324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25592af4ac

Here are a few pics of the cable coming thru the firewall with the support braket and one of how tight it gets with longtubes on the bottom. I tried to get pics of under the dash but there is just not enough room. It's tight under there and I had the front seats out for more room when I was working on the clutch pedal. The pedal mod included welding a simple extension on top of the pedal ( It's a 1" wide piece of thick bar stock only around 2" or so in length), and welding the pin or some kind of attatching point on to the extension for the cable. There is not much room under the dash so many mock-ups and lots of measuring was needed. The cable has a plastic bushing inside the metal hoop and the pin I found fit nice with no slack. What it came off of, I have no idea. It was only around 1 1/2" long and already had a small hole for a retaining key once the cable slid over it. Here is a link to e-pay with the 79 cable and good picture of the ends. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-FORD-MUSTANG-Clutch-Cable-ATP-Y144_W0QQitemZ160409777324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25592af4ac

It's called the poor crafty guy's clutch cable conversion and it has lasted at least 3000 (mostly hard) miles without the first problem. The pin is much smaller than that. About the size of a 3/8 bolt. It was just a pin that I had around the shop off something and it's welded to the extension. A kotter key is used with a flat washer to hold the end of the cable on. The 79 cable has a hoop and it hooks to the 79 pedal the same way..with a pin. I'll try to get a few pics up if you want to see them.

It's called the poor crafty guy's clutch cable conversion and it has lasted at least 3000 (mostly hard) miles without the first problem. The pin is much smaller than that. About the size of a 3/8 bolt. It was just a pin that I had around the shop off something and it's welded to the extension. A kotter key is used with a flat washer to hold the end of the cable on. The 79 cable has a hoop and it hooks to the 79 pedal the same way..with a pin. I'll try to get a few pics up if you want to see them.

It's called the poor crafty guy's clutch cable conversion and it has lasted at least 3000 (mostly hard) miles without the first problem. The pin is much smaller than that. About the size of a 3/8 bolt. It was just a pin that I had around the shop off something and it's welded to the extension. A kotter key is used with a flat washer to hold the end of the cable on. The 79 cable has a hoop and it hooks to the 79 pedal the same way..with a pin. I'll try to get a few pics up if you want to see them.

It's on my 69. I welded a short extension onto the 69 clutch pedal to pull the cable. I used a 79 Mustang clutch cable that has a metal hoop on the pedal end, connected it to the pedal extension with a steel pin, figured out where it needed to go thru the firewall, drilled a hole and made a steel support bracket to brace the firewall on the outside because over time the cable will bend and crack the firewall from pulling against it. I used a BBK firewall cable adjuster (a 79-93 5.0 Mustang aftermarket part) and the 79 cable also has an adjustable end at the fork. So adjustment is simple and plentiful.

It's on my 69. I welded a short extension onto the 69 clutch pedal to pull the cable. I used a 79 Mustang clutch cable that has a metal hoop on the pedal end, connected it to the pedal extension with a steel pin, figured out where it needed to go thru the firewall, drilled a hole and made a steel support bracket to brace the firewall on the outside because over time the cable will bend and crack the firewall from pulling against it. I used a BBK firewall cable adjuster (a 79-93 5.0 Mustang aftermarket part) and the 79 cable also has an adjustable end at the fork. So adjustment is simple and plentiful.

It's on my 69. I welded a short extension onto the 69 clutch pedal to pull the cable. I used a 79 Mustang clutch cable that has a metal hoop on the pedal end, connected it to the pedal extension with a steel pin, figured out where it needed to go thru the firewall, drilled a hole and made a steel support bracket to brace the firewall on the outside because over time the cable will bend and crack the firewall from pulling against it. I used a BBK firewall cable adjuster (a 79-93 5.0 Mustang aftermarket part) and the 79 cable also has an adjustable end at the fork. So adjustment is simple and plentiful.

I'm going to take a wild guess that SB is for small block..lol.. and I know you have talked before about a 289 and wanting a T5. I done it and it worked with a 302, unknown brand of longtubes and a clutch cable with the stock 89 5.0 bellhousing and T5. The bellhousing fits no problem once you get the correct flywheel. The clutch cable is the problem as it must snake thru the header tubes (assuming you want to use a cable). I can tell you that tri-y's won't work with a cable and not all long tubes will. It's kinda hit and miss and depends how the tubes run. Heat will kill the cable in short order.. Ceramic coated headers help controll heat, and I wraped my cable in header wrap. It has worked for 3+ years and hundreds of miles. The best bet is a hydraulic clutch setup but that's more money. The cable is easy if your crafty.

I'm going to take a wild guess that SB is for small block..lol.. and I know you have talked before about a 289 and wanting a T5. I done it and it worked with a 302, unknown brand of longtubes and a clutch cable with the stock 89 5.0 bellhousing and T5. The bellhousing fits no problem once you get the correct flywheel. The clutch cable is the problem as it must snake thru the header tubes (assuming you want to use a cable). I can tell you that tri-y's won't work with a cable and not all long tubes will. It's kinda hit and miss and depends how the tubes run. Heat will kill the cable in short order.. Ceramic coated headers help controll heat, and I wraped my cable in header wrap. It has worked for 3+ years and hundreds of miles. The best bet is a hydraulic clutch setup but that's more money. The cable is easy if your crafty.

I'm going to take a wild guess that SB is for small block..lol.. and I know you have talked before about a 289 and wanting a T5. I done it and it worked with a 302, unknown brand of longtubes and a clutch cable with the stock 89 5.0 bellhousing and T5. The bellhousing fits no problem once you get the correct flywheel. The clutch cable is the problem as it must snake thru the header tubes (assuming you want to use a cable). I can tell you that tri-y's won't work with a cable and not all long tubes will. It's kinda hit and miss and depends how the tubes run. Heat will kill the cable in short order.. Ceramic coated headers help controll heat, and I wraped my cable in header wrap. It has worked for 3+ years and hundreds of miles. The best bet is a hydraulic clutch setup but that's more money. The cable is easy if your crafty.