chillininnh

The driveshaft typically needs to be shortened.

6-7K for a manual swap? Maybe if you drop your car off at Keisler and you buy lunch. It can be done for much less than that if you do it yourself, if I can do it anyone can.

I had the same problem with my original setup before switching to the Lokar. I used a small zip tie to keep the barrel on the end of the cable in position, worked fine.

Are you sure you are installing them properly? My original is still going strong after 44 years. Besides, I can count how many times I've had to open it over the years on my 10 fingers. If you are continually having to replace the repros you are buying they are either really poorly made or the latch is somehow misaligned. Why don't you take Denny up on his offer for an original?

I occasionally read directions, not too often!

Disc brakes were standard equipment on GT equipped mustangs in 65, 66 and 67. Starting in 1968 they became a stand alone option and this continued into 1969.

Good point, when trimming down the throttle cable you actually slide the ferrule onto the cable out of the way, cut it, then position it at the end. I'd bet you're onto something with the heat being generated.

I recently upgraded to the Lokar throttle cable/bracket. I taped it and cut it with a hacksaw, it was tough stuff but it worked fine.

The consoles were all the same, it is the shift plate that is different. The shift plates are removable and interchangable, you just need to be sure you have the correct one for your application. If you buy the correct auto console it should fit right around your current shift bezel. It looks like this correct? This is a standard interior automatic shift plate: This is deluxe auto, the extra holes are for the woodgrain insert:

Be sure you buy one made for an automatic, the manual consoles had a different sized shift plate opening. It fastens to the tunnel only, it slides under the dash but doesn't attach to it.

No problem, hope you like the TKO as much as I do!

I believe the NPD T-5 harness will work also, perhaps even better because it has the plug on the other end that you need to plug into the factory harness. The studs on both the T-5 and the TKO look the same. Don't be alarmed by the separate wires for the transmission side, just push them onto the studs, it doesn't matter which one goes to which plug. I rewired mine with a Painless harness so I don't know what the factory plug looks like. Hope this helps. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/extension_wire_back_up_light_attaches_t_5_switch_terminals_to_existing_extension_wire_on_transmission_tunnel-169761-0.html

This is it no? http://www.cjponyparts.com/modern-driveline-backup-light-harness-t-5-and-tko-transmission/p/HW2388/

I feel like a broken record, pictures would help. With that said, seems like a good idea to ditch it. If the interior is as custom as you say it is, it will look completely out of place.

Did you need a 20" or a 24"? They make shrouds for both sizes. Are you sure you weren't mixing these parts?

The car looks great, it's a big milestone to get to that point. The link is a great resource for the dimensions on the hood black. http://photos.mustangsbymike.com/Mach-1-Hood

Please post the model # of the Griffin radiator that didn't work.

+1 Pretty much the entire reason I'm still running the leafs.

I thought I was being rather clever lol.

That looks beautiful! Where did you get the grilles? They have a fantastic factory look.

I am more than pleasantly surprised by the sound. After jamming to 2 6X9's in the back for a season it was clear that these 2 additional speakers in the front really fill the sound in wonderfully. The 4" speakers I had in the kick MP kick panels are no comparison to the additional sound I'm getting from these larger 6 3/4". They really made a big difference! Having these tucked away nicely really has me thinking about permanently mounting the 6x9's somewhere in the back.

Lucky you, I would kill for a fold down! I guess I haven't heard about any problems going that route. I wasn't aware the repop trap doors were so ill fitting. Does it vibrate? I am quite pleased with the sound as is and no extra holes. Like all my other mods, it's easily reversible.

I have 2 6X9's in speaker boxes sitting in the back seat, no one will ever sit back there. I would love to add a fold down and mount speakers in a repop trap door. It sounds twice as nice with the additional front speakers, huge difference.

Oh man that wasn't as easy as I thought it was going to be. The passenger side was gravy, no problemo. I completely forgot that one of the first things that went in when assembling the interior was the parking brake. It has to be "floated" to get the vent on the drivers side in and out. A 1 hour job turned into over 3 hours. It was worth it though, 4 speakers is just way better than 2.

Speakers arrived this morning, they are Rockford Fosgate P1675 6 3/4" and fit in the opening nicely. I had to clearance the back a bit to get them in the center. I used double sided tape and a few screws to hold them in place. I then sealed it all up with black silicone rubber. I used some 3M duct tape (sticks like a mother) to seal up the clearance hole and ran the speaker wire extension. Followed that up with some new foam on the back side to keep out the road debris. I have the speaker wire leads already there from my earlier kick panel speaker experiment so swapping them in should be a breeze. I'll snap some pics of the finished product. Work is slow today, time to do the other side!