Jump to content

AnneBok94

Members
  • Content Count

    0
  • Joined

  • Last visited


Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    AnneBok94 reacted to fvike in Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread   
    So, your worst nightmare just happened to me.

     
    Here's how:
    I was at the local racetrack, going out for my first session of the weekend. Started slow, planning on a warm-up lap. So in the 3rd corner I just spin out ca 100 degrees and hit the armco. The car is then recoiled out and according to the driver behind me a 1/2 to 1 meter in the air. I then did a 360 degree spin in the sandtrap and a 180 on the tarmac before I rolled to a halt on the other side of the road.
     

     

     
    Both doors didn't open. So I roll down the window and crawls out. A guy comes up to me and tells me he blew a oil pressure coupling and left oil on the track. Boy, did I give him the evil eye. :cursing: Here I got my car ruined because of him not having his shit together when he got out on the track. I was very frustrated. I was later told that he had been wrenchin' the whole day, and had a loud knocking in his engine in the pits. Which he ignored. I also heard he blew the oil hose in the second corner but didn't stop, he ignored it and drove on, oiling the track. A guy (who's an driving instructor) in an M3 told me he only got saved by the ESP system in his car. I was frustrated that the actions of one guy who didn't consider the safety of others on the racetrack cost me my car. On the other hand I was glad that I didn't have fault in it. The guy in the car behind me said there was no way I could have saved the car in that spinout. He actually destroyed all his tires when he was breaking to stop for me.
     

    Crashsite as seen from ontop the salvage truck. There was a lot for oil on the track all the way down the hill and I spun out where the two people is standing.
     

    Back In the garage
     

    The shocktower bracing did a good job stopping the impact. I also believe the subframe connectors helped resist body twist. I also have the TCP X brace under the car between the subframe connectors.
     

     
     

    It's only metal.
     
    So begins the rebuild. Luckily, I was covered by insurance, but I'll probably invest some extra money in the car anyway - I already have thanks to Ebay - you know how these projects go!
    Luckily I didn't have a scratch on me. I did get a minor swelling from the shoulder belt (using the originals), but it was very minor. Just like 3 zips in row on my collar bone. Luckily I didn't carry much speed when I spun out, because it was only the warm-up lap.
  2. Like
    AnneBok94 reacted to Caseyrhe in Shelby Transformation   
    https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
    Shelby 500 transformation
  3. Like
    AnneBok94 reacted to demon69 in Lowered Suspension   
    Hi
    I have a 69 Mach1 that was lowered before I bought it.  It is fairly low, I would estimate at least 2" may be more so the travel is reduced particularly at the front.  It only has 1/2" travel to the bump stop on the left hand side and 1" travel on the RHS.  The suspension is stock other than the lowered springs (not sure what brand) and Koni Classic shocks.
     
    I would appreciate advice on how I can increase the travel other than raising the vehicle.  I was thinking of reducing the size of the bump stops but that is a crude option particularly as the bump stops are designed to be progressive.  Another option mentioned was to cut a section out of the inner shock tower support and weld it back together, the original bump stop can then be retained.  But there is quite a bit of work in order to do this.
     
    I expect other members will have experienced this problem and come up with a good solution.
     
    Thanks
    Peter
  4. Like
    AnneBok94 reacted to rchappelear in TCP front suspension issue   
    I purchased the Total Control Product front coil over suspension kit.  I've watch the 2 youtube videos a couple times each and have gone over the instructions with a fine tooth comb. 
    The issue i have is the strut rod they supplied is pushing my lower control arm too far back toward the rear.  Ive tried pulling my camber all the way forward and maxed out the strut rod to the minimum length and still does not line up the lower control arm.  I cannot even get the verishock to go inside the aluminum mount.
    Ive measured everything out, check and double checked part numbers and everything seems to be correct.
    TCP right now is kind of shrugging their shoulders as they don't have an answer for me.
     
    All the metal on this car is factory original








  5. Like
    AnneBok94 reacted to overtonefour in Wanted: 69 vinyl top molding   
    I'm restoring my 69 grande. It originally had a vinyl top but was removed at some point prior to me owning it. I have the four trim pieces for the rear window, but need the pieces that run from the quarter window horizontally along the base of the vinyl top and quarter panel shoulder to the rear window for both sides. If you have these, please contact me with cost and shipping to 26101. THANKS!!!
  6. Like
    AnneBok94 reacted to Vicfreg in '70 Mustang Kick Panel Speakers   
    Thought I would post one of my side-projects for my 1970 Convertible.  I want to put speakers in the front kick panels.  The pictures below show my steps.  My rationale was that I have a Convertible and it is an A/C car, and the 1970s have the flow through ventilation grills in the door sill.  So.....I will have plenty of fresh air, but need some tunes.    I will be running a Boss power amp, rear speakers and subwoofers off of my Boss DIN 1 flatscreen head unit.  I installed Kicker 5-1/4", 40CS54 Speakers.   The "CS" series are low profile, and fit nicely.
     
    First step was to get an extra set of kick panels.....just in case I want to return to original. Next, was to get some MDF from Lowes, and make a template the same shape as the vent box, and also, the hole for the speakers. Cut the MDF shape and speaker hole, and painted it black Cut the cable going to the vent door, and secured the door with a sheet metal screw Sprayed undercoating on the outside of the vent door, and the area where it seals to the air box Added dynamat on the inside and outside of the vent box Put the BoomMat speaker baffles inside the vent box.  Routed the speaker wires through the BoomMat and through a hole in the airbox, sealed with RTV Mounted the speakers to the MDF, and the MDF to the airbox Took new kickpanels and used an X-Acto knife to carefully trim the vent louvers out of the kickpanel Looked forever on EBay and Amazon to find speaker grills that I liked and were the right diameter, and could be mounted.  They have an inside "ring" that gets screwed to the MDF, and the grill is press fit on that ring Pictures below.  Not sure how it will sound, but will be fun to find out!
×
×
  • Create New...