Bob & Sue
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Posts posted by Bob & Sue
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52 minutes ago, prayers1 said:Well I don't know what to say. I ordered the Booster, MC and brake pedal from Mustang Steve who has been selling this combo for years. Both booster and MC are rebuilt.
I know I have the correct booster & rod and the correct brake pedal.
I tested the check valve At the booster and it works fine.
Yes, 12" of vac is in PARK. I can rig a vacuum line w/ a gauge to see how it responses when driving. But shouldn't the vacuum drop anyway under power?
I'm sure you've seen this video goto the bottom of the page.
I have the Bendix on mine with 14 vacuum at idle, it will stop ya almost as well as new car brakes, something is amiss with you system I'd be leaning towards your booster. Even new or rebuilt boosters can be bad out of the box I've had it happen took a couple weeks to figure it out.
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Any of you follow the NHRA pro tour? I drove altered's, Super Stock, Funny Cars, Top Fuel dragsters for a career in my youth. I've been watching Indy all weekend Funny Cars running 3.79 et at 339 mph in a 1000' amazing. They're running faster in 330' than I did in a 1/4 mile. I sure miss the adrenaline rush & smell of nitro but honestly after seeing in person 10,000 hp plus cars I don't think I have the b_lls to get in one anymore. The last one I drove was a nostalgia funny car running 6.50 et 244 mph that was quite a while ago.
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Mine is a one family owned car the father bought it at the oldest Ford dealership in Cal he drove it till his son was in high school his son got tired of it and gave it back to him. The son moved up here in 2006 and the dad gifted it to his son who had it till I bought it. I have the original license plate, all paper work along with 2 boxes of receipts right now it has 63,000 miles on it. The engine was rebuilt 5000 miles ago in Palo Alto and FMX was changed to a C4. The son kept it garaged up here only drove and started it a couple times a month for the last 10 years he wasn't into cars his dad did all the work on it. I can't find any rust anywhere except for some surface rust in a couple places I've already taken care of. Engine bay is mostly chrome, Procar/Scat seats, engine build, etc wish it was a Mach 1 with all the history I have on it.
I'm just finishing the interior new door panels, some plastic pieces, new carpet, all new weatherstripping & building a carpeted trunk.
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Thanks for looking.
The 2 back holes are plugged, I'll pull the plate off later to check the crossover gasket want to pickup some gasket material before pulling it off. It was a California car built and bought in San Jose.
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On 8/31/2017 at 6:41 PM, 1969_Mach1 said:Wow, you have an old Holley Street Dominator intake manifold. I haven't one of those on a 351W since 1982. They are actually a very good single plane intake manifold for street use. For a single plane, they still provide good low and mid range power.
Could you take a look at this manifold on ebay the plate I described is between the upper bolt holes in the center the plate isn't on it in the picture.
What's it for?
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I used the Frost King on the inside of the doors cut in 12"x12" to fit in the holes you don't need full coverage it deadens most vibrations. I spoke to a couple restorers the recommended this because as it gets hot & cold the duct wrap is designed to expand & contract with any surface & the heat on the door will activate the glue. I was told not to put it anywhere you want to remove it it's like weatherstrip contact glue. It did cut down on road noise & deadens sound.
You can order the pre-cut sheet that goes between the door & door panel or even use shipping wrapping paper. I used the pre-cut from Cal-Mustangs even have all fastener holes in the right place fit perfect with a couple dabs of weatherstrip glue to hold it in place while putting the door panels on.
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Here's a pic last night before she went out to do her usual hunting luckily no more bats. Her specialty is Hummingbirds till we removed the flowers that attracted them. She's in amazing health for her age still thinks she can whop any cat that comes near her kingdom (yard).
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
What's the strangest critter cat has brought in your house?
Our cat is almost 14 yrs old both indoor & outdoor for the 4th time in 5 years she came strutting in with a fruit bat in her mouth about 11:00 pm 2 nights ago. Luckily she followed out the patio door I got her to drop it thinking it was dead just covered it with a flower pot. Yesterday I went to dispose of it it was alive got a dust pan & scooped it up inside the pot walked up to a field and let it go dam thing scared me when it flew away instantly.
Shes brought them in before & let go of them inside the house makes for a great time running around with a fish net trying to catch it. After that I had the garage door open and a sparrow flew in took me 15 minutes to get it out.
The fruit bat or micro-bat eats mostly insects at night very seldom do they have rabies she's due for a rabies shot soon.
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Let me know if you find it.
VMF seems to be more of lounge for BS with some good folks. All the boat forums seem to have the same divide between sites.
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After heating the engine up to 160* I took some readings on manifold most areas were 135*-140* one area was 160* where the manifold (Holley Dominator) has an oval cover with 2 bolts on RH side. All the cylinders measured 155*-160* on the headers that eliminates a bad plug.
Changed the fuel filter it appeared to have a small amount of water in pretty hard to tell with that amount.
Secondary float was a little high dropped it down to halfway below center of sight glass & top of threads.
Took it for a ride no miss showed up, the original miss was at idle, cruising and going up a hill more of a surge than a miss. I'll take it out for a spin tomorrow my neighbor will be home then with a trailer if I need it.
As far as plugs I prefer E3 Diamond Fire, NGK are an excellent plug also.
Isolator & rebuild kit is next on the list.
Thanks for the ideas
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Yep correct gear.
I have an Edelbrock heat insulator like the one in the link not phenolic.
Good idea on checking float height I'm going out to work on it in a couple hours or after the Hawks whoop Oakland hoping Marshawn gets less than 20 yards.
Not sure about the heat transfer block manifold was installed by PO.
The more I think about it tend to think it's the fuel, just added a can of Seafoam with 3 gallons of gas & changing the fuel filter.
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We've put about 500 miles on it since new dizzy & spark plugs after my stock Motorcraft with Pertronix I died. I put a Spectra Premium ( RichPorter ) distributor in it till I get a MSD to go with my 6AL-2 box. Plugs are new, wires have about 1000 miles on them. We've had 80-94* temps for the last 2 months I've noticed after a long ride the carb is boiling the fuel out, I was hoping to wait till this winter to put an isolating spacer on it & rebuild the carb Holley Street Avenger. I put 8 gallons of 92 oct in it yesterday from a small station.
Yesterday coming home it developed a hicup or it feels like it might stall but doesn't it kind of feels like when you set the low idle speed screw in to far it almost dies almost feels like water in the fuel. Hard to describe the symptom hope it made sense.
I'm not sure if it's in the electrical or carb, I'm going to start by putting the spacer on it today or tomorrow & pulling the primary bowl off to check for water bad fuel. If that doesn't fix it I'll change the plugs it has Autolite AP25 in it going to change them anyway to E3's.
Any thoughts I'm kind of stumped.
86* yesterday I was picking up a converted FoMoCo r12 to r134 compressor. Anyone have the stock mounts they want to sell?Bob
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We can't make that date wish we could.
Bracket Stars is holding there cruise into fall show in Enumclaw Wa Sept 9 if it's like last year there should be 200-300 cars there is already 120 registered.
We'll be there around 10:00 a.m. cars not ready to show yet will be there with the Mustang just not entering
If anyone can make it let me know I should be able to get you in the car display area, you won't need to walk 5 blocks & leave your car unattended.
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I replaced mine 3 months ago haven't had any problems fitment & function was perfect, bought it at WCCC they have a good video on how to also.
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On 8/17/2017 at 6:18 PM, sstry1969 said:Need to sell my 69 Mach 1 . Need opinions On price to sell it at.
M code , original ps , pb, ac candy apple red car.
408w d4 block afr185 heads, dougs tri Ys, air gap intake, quick fuel bd750dp carb, comp cams extreme energy XE284H cam, flow master exhaust, pan fill c4 with Broader performance manual reverse pattern valve body and 500hp kit, Edge Racing 3000 stall converter. 9in nodular 3.73 with True track, AAW harness, All new suspension parts ,interior and a bunch of new sheet metal..........
Also should I put the Mach 1 stripes on?
I've been watching this thread but have been to busy to reply.
Beautiful car I might put different wheels on it & sell the black ones or offer them with the sale of the car at an extra price.
If this were my car I wouldn't take less than $40,000 for it I'd start out at $48k you have a car that is well worth it. Besides ebay I'd put it on Autotrader Classics, Racingjunk.com.
You might want to run it on C/L Seattle it would sell at $40k without any trouble here or in the Bay area in my opinion. Don't even bother with a broker unless it's cash up front.
As far as numbers matching cars drawing more money look at some of the auction results over the last 5 years restomods are bring more than most body off restorations. I have an acquaintance who restores Mustangs & Cougars only his restomods are out selling restorations by 10's of 1000's in fact his last 2 body off concours cars sold at Barrett Jackson for less than his last restomod or the cost of the restoration.
I'll give you $25k for it right now & resell it.
Best of luck don't get in a hurry there's a lot of buyers out there.
look at the lowest ad price on these cars.
http://www.racingjunk.com/search?quickSearch=1&categoryId1=&searchString=1969+mach+1
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars-for-sale/1969-ford-mustang-for-sale?keyword=mach 1
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I have a 69 coupe with 9" rear end 10" x 2" drums on back & stock discs on front trunk has a custom made trunk liner that's flat from side to side & front to rear with the original spare tire mount , hold down rod & jack.
I need to buy a spare tire for it any ideas on what would fit preferably as small as I can get. I would like to have an idea before I hit a couple parts yards.
Would something like a modern mini fit the drums & discs or do I need something like a 14" rim? Right now I have a tire inflation kit that came with my Cad ATS V that I carry it either fills your flat with air or fix flat liquid.
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Did you find the glass?
This guy on C/L has a lot of parts from a 69 Mach 1 that he restored, I've bought several items from him, easy to deal with I paid by paypal and had him ship them to me parts were just as he described them.
One of his adds for contact info.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/ford-mustang-driver-side/6246564848.html
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5 hours ago, RPM said:Ya, I'm going to put the glue in the ice box per Barnett, we shall see. Good thing is we've got a cooling trend going, so it's a brisk 98° here. I was able to find a piece of the original plastic spacer which snaps into the front and rear of the glass channel to center the glass. It measured .065" thick on each side.
That's the same as mine .065
I used the 3m took more time to setup than I wanted in 70* weather.
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That's right
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I'm referring to the advance curve cams inside the distributor they very by Ford engines 5L, 8L, 15L etc depending on how much total mechanical advance the dizzy puts out, you double the number 2 revolutions = mechanical advance a 5L would give you 10* mechanical advance. The photo shows a 10L & 15L the 15L is the one controlling the curve it's positioned on the stop, you can rotate it to the 10L for 20* mechanical advance. The springs control at what rpm the mechanical will come in lighter springs means less rpm's heavier more rpm's.
Example light springs total mechanical advance 1800 rpm
---------------heavier springs total mechanical advance 3500 rpm
Hope this helps, that's why you'll need to know what curve your engines cam needs to set up an MSD box it's controlled by electronics not parts in the dizzy.
The dizzy in the pic has a light & heavy spring if I remember right it had total advance at 2800 rpm.
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48 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:If I understand the idea billet aluminum pulley, I think the clutch hub will destroy the front face of the aluminum pulley in a short amount if time when it engages. I think I would seriously consider your other thought of buying a kit. Install it and have your neighbor evacuate and charge it.
Make certain it is evacuated the system for 30 minutes (minimum 20 minutes) prior to charging it. During the evacuation, the gauges should read close to 30" of vacuum, usually about 29.5" or so. This will remove any moisture that got into the system while it was opened. Some A/C people want to skip that step to save some time. If it is not evacuated it will not cool quite as well. Plus even though there is a desiccant bag inside the accumulator to absorb moisture, it can still cause some corrosion internally.
FYI: From college physics, 30" of vacuum is an ideal vacuum, absolutely no air molecules exist, and has never been achieved in real life. So any vacuum gauge the reads 30" or higher vacuum is simply not correct.
48 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:I messed up
yep I'm going with the Sanden kit trying to save a few bucks always bites ya later.
Interesting about vacuum, I worked on an experimental enclave large enough to hold the carbon fiber wing structure section of the B2 bomber at the Boeing Dev Center. I don't recall what the requirements were for Vacuum but I do remember it had to held at +/- .200" through the whole process.
Found some pics online of it I worked on it in 1988 programming the CNC tape layer. The 1st one was to large to fit inside the building it sat right on Marginal Way by the Flight Museum it took several years to get a clearance deviation from security to have it in public view, they could only load & unload at night with everything tarped to hide it from cameras.
Thanks for your detailed posts
Bob
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31 minutes ago, martiy1971 said:Right now the car has decent plug wires and plugs however it looks like it has remanufactured distributor and coil. I am just trying to get my head wrapped around where the timing is currently Set before I change out the coil and distributor and plugs to a full set of MSD components.
Your going to need the cam specs or set it by ear even with an MSD setup you need to know what advance curve to set it to.
It sounds like you have 15L curve cams in it that is 15+15 = 30* mechanical curve
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Welcome,
Without more info on the cam specs I can't say what the initial timing should be, it sounds like it should have a healthy cam in it.
With your initial set to 0* 3000 rpm 30* BTC total timing.
Somethings not right if you set it 10* before TDC timing shows 20* BTC at 3000 rpm.
It should be 10* + 30* = 40* BTC at 3000 rpm total advance are you sure you didn't set your initial at 10* ATC that would = 20* BTC
Your mechanical advance is 30* + initial setting = Total Advance at 3000 RPM
Your initial should be somewhere around 10* if that engine is built like you said. You'll need to get it set close, then advance your initial by ear till it runs the strongest at idle, then check your initial timing & total timing it shouldn't be over around 36*-40* BTC if it sounds & runs good take it for a ride listening for any pinging if it pings back it off 2* at a time till it doesn't ping that is as close as you can get without knowing the cam specs.
You'll need the vacuum gauge to set your low idle speed mixture on the carb not the idle speed adjustment for rpm's at idle go to Edelbrocks site for info on that.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf
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Thanks for the replies, the unit is new from a Ford dealer they had ordered it for a warranty replacement it includes compressor, condenser, evaporator, tubes/lines and hardware with instructions. My neighbor owns a large HVAC company he'd be making the hoses & charging the system if I buy it. I'd machine a billet pulley and make the adapter plate.
The more I think about I'd rather just buy an aftermarket kit. I can't make up my mind.
How do you test Power Brake Booster
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Watch that video in my previous post.
Pump the brake pedal 5-6 times engine off keep foot on pedal start car pedal should move slightly with vacuum boost assist.