Bob & Sue
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Posts posted by Bob & Sue
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I was looking at a set of mini's at Oreilleys yesterday that are 3/4 that size for the column that could easily be modified.
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After closer inspection 4 & 7 seem to be the leanest 3 & 8 look good under a large magnifier. I've changed the fuel filter & put new plugs in, have the carb off will tear it apart today or tomorrow. Checked for vacuum leaks with water spray just before pulling carb off no leaks. Did re-torque manifold 3 bolts were about 15 ft/lbs torqued all to 20 ft/lbs, 2 of them were on the drivers side with block off plate in the center of the manifold. Added another can of Seafoam to the tank with 8 gallons of fresh non-ethanol gas.
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1 hour ago, 1969_Mach1 said:If you order another carburetor rebuild kit, you might want to pick up a couple of main jet kits, 1 and 2 sizes larger than original for that carb.
I'm just picking up a fuel bowl bowl gasket set just in case I mess one up. I also am going 2 sizes larger on the jets. Will check the whole carb out for leaks before I pull it off with water spray.
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1 hour ago, Mach1Rider said:Front 4 plugs must be good as you left them out. As I said before the use of a 1 inch four hole spacer would help.
It allows better fuel/air mixing before it hits the open spaced intake, the rear cylinders have too work at getting fuel to them.
Yep front four are perfect, I'm heading up to NAPA later to pickup a four hole spacer & fuel bowl gaskets. Never had a lean problem before the bad gas I may also have a piece of dirt in one of the primary circuits so I'll rip it apart & clean then add the 4 hole spacer & remove the heat isolator.
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Took the car out for a ride on a 80* day about 40 miles total of stop & go traffic. It seemed to have a surging miss like fuel starvation after about 15 miles.
Some history I put 10 gallons of bad gas in it 1 month ago when this started I added a full can of Sea Foam to the tank & drove it a couple miles to get it through the entire system. It seemed fine I've only had it out for short trips since.Holley Street Avenger 083570, Holley Dominator Single Plenum, Spectra Performance points dizzy. 351W Mild Cam.
Here's what I did.
1) Changed fuel filter twice (let about 1/2 qt of gas sit in a clear bottle over night it was about 1/4 water from separation)
2) Check timing timing 10* & Points 29.4* dwell
3) Changed plugs they all looked good
4) Rebuilt Holley carb kit # 37-934
5) Ran all the bad gas out before rebuild carb rebuild.
6) PCV 3 months oldI pulled & changed the plugs last night 3,4,7,8 are all lean.
Did I screw up the rebuild or does it sound like maybe I picked up some kind of blockage in the carb.
Bob
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Here's a pic with both setup.
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13 minutes ago, stangs-R-me said:I used a plastic Auto-Meter Gauge pod that I mounted to the left dash cluster using the factory lower cluster screw (zero modification) for my voltmeter and it blends in quite nicely at the base of the deluxe cluster ... could easily add a second one on the other side with the other lower screw.
However, this style gauge pod has been NLA from Auto-Meter for a while, but maybe you can find NOS or something similar from a different gauge mfr.
Doug
Thanks that's where mine are right now water temp on left oil pressure on right. It seems like either the column mounted tach, steering wheel or my knee blocks them, I have a habit of always watching gauges.
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7 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:I don't know what instrument panel you have. But most gauges are being reproduced. The only gauges not yet reproduced have the light bluish/grey face color found on the Mach 1 deluxe instrument panels. The black face and grey face gauges are being reproduced. Worse case is you need to replace a few gauges.
Instrument panel w/o tach, black face gauges. I probably have the only original 1969 Amp gauge that works on the planet.
I have all winter to get this done I'm thinking of replacing the amp to volts, oil pressure, water temp gauges, & new lenses for all. That will leave me with only needing to mount the A/F meter somewhere.
Thanks all any ideas welcome.
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9 hours ago, Rsanter said:Yup, and I have the FORD lettered one already so this one will go great next to it
He sent me an email last night it's sold.
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2 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:Thanks for the offer Bob and Sue. I'm sorry I'll have to pass on this manifold. It will need more than cleaning to be in good usable condition. It's typical of most of the original Buddy Bar/Ford aluminum intakes I have seen for sale.
No problem that's usually the case when good pics aren't shown.
I have seen one other one that sold for $200 not far from me I missed it by 1 hour it was pristine. I'm not interested just thought someone looking for a date correct one might want it.
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I have factory air.
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On 5/20/2017 at 1:27 PM, JayEstes said:I have a 69 coupe, restored 95% stock. The suspension is all original design, but new parts. I have new front springs, original leafs in back and KYB gas-adjust shocks all around. I went with 7in wide rims, 4.125in backspacing. I run 235 x 60 x R15 cragars (still love em). White letter tires were a must for me. I bought a set of the BF Goodrich Radial T/A's for my sons 71 coupe, and they look great, seem to have decent traction, but they are kinda expensive.
I settled on Cooper Tire's "cooper cobra" for my 69. I really like these tires so far, they seem to grip well in turns, work well enough in rain (tho I have limited experience with this car in the rain). I also feel they look as good as the Goodrich - maybe better, and can be as much as $50/tire less.
I was really worried about trying 235/60/15's up front, but with the stock suspension completely rebuilt, I have had literally zero issues.
Best of luck with selecting tires and wheels - only thing that affects overall perception of the car more, is paint.
Jay
I know this is an older thread been searching everywhere didn't want to start a new thread on wheels. I'm old school I guess love the look of the Cragar SS, want to keep it looking like it was still 1969. It has some vintage American Racing chrome drag wheels with spinners that I can't stand on it now.
I am picking up a set of these wheels today or Wednesday for the front 15x7 backspace 4.125 offset 6 , it appears they fit fine.
My question is I understand the 4.125 backspacing but how does the offset of 6mm calculate for some reason it's not computing in my feeble old brain. I've looked at charts with - / + offset & understand that, are my calculations how you figure it out.
Example
+ 6mm offset =.236 backspace 4.125 + .236 = 4.361 total clearance distance
- 6mm offset =.236 backspace 4.125 - .236 = 3.889 total clearance distance
Is this correct?
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I'm not wanting to spend 1k on a new dash pod I would if this car was worth the investment. Will be going with the 3 gauge pod that eliminates the dash speaker that's not there anyway from Mustang Depot or NPD. The only downside to this is you must use electrical gauges not enough clearance for mechanical gauges. Guess I'll use an electrical gauge for oil pressure I don't really like plastic tubing for oil pressure inside the car anyway.
Thanks for the ideas.Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
He sent some pics of the water passages & underside of the manifold. Looks like it needs some work to me.
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If you want I can have him take some more pics of the passages. He's about 50 miles from me if it looks good to you I could buy it & ship to you. I usually don't trust someone who doesn't take pics of the whole part.
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Right now I have a mechanical oil pressure & water temp gauge mounted under the dash kind of a pain to see. Tried the Shelby ash tray mount doesn't fit with factory air without butchering it up so I returned it. I would like to use the stock dash mounting locations with mechanical oil pressure, water temp and volt gauge. My fuel gauge & amp meter (surprisingly works) I would change the fuel gauge to match. It appears to me with the way it's made the only solution would be to purchase an aftermarket unit but I can't justify the cost.
1) Has anyone modified their original gauge cluster? If so any pics or ideas would sure be appreciated.
2) My other idea is to build a fiberglass A pillar 3 or 4 gauge pod. I have enough experience with fiberglass to easily build one. If I did this the 4th gauge would be an Air/Fuel meter.
Midlife have you made a harness or modification for this?
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Thanks for taking the time to post it, I just bought a complete set of pulleys idler & tensioner with mounting brackets.
FYI a 73 tensioner bracket pulley V doesn't line up with a 69
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I would research what the difference between a Thermal Clutch Fan is compared to a centrifugal clutch fan vs trying to adapt an electric fan.
1) Thermal Clutch Fan only locks the clutch when temperature exceeds a certain temp if under that temp it spins freely not using any horse power.
2) Centrifugal clutch fan locks under whatever rpm it's designed for meaning it will lock at lower rpms using horse power and spin at about 60% of the rated clutch.
I would only go the electric route if it were my last resort. How does it mount, will it fit your radiator, do you have the equipment to fabricate mounts, etc are several questions to consider.
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Could you post some pics & price.
Thanks
Bob
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I'll add one more thing I would go with the THERMAL Factory Clutch, Correct Factory Fan, Correct Factory Shroud & Correct SPACER this setup will cool any combination with a 24" 3 row copper radiator with auto trans & a/c.
I wouldn't buy an aluminum rad unless it was a last resort then I'd go aluminum rad with dual fans.
Just my opinion I've had a GT500 428 that never ran hot running 100 mph for over an hour in Nevada on a 90* day took it up to 150 mph for several minutes then back down to 100 mph. This was between Reno & Vegas we were in a hurry to get back home.
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Looking to buy any fittings, hoses (in good condition only), drier and condenser maybe some mounting brackets or idlers in good condition not needing new bearings. To fit a 69 factory air 351W. I have a new compressor & clutch and 2 40 lb bottles of R12 so I shouldn't run out.
I was going to swap everything out for an r134 system I bought NOS 1994 Mustang, I need to machine too many parts to make it work so I'll do it in the future when I change over to an all serpentine system with billet aluminum brackets. I'll be doing all the machine work if someone wants new billet brackets I'll have them for sale in 6-12 months depending on how much machine time I get.
PM me or post anything you have laying around. -
Nice looking truck.
I stopped touring in the mid 70's we either match raced or ran NHRA & IHRA races never did much bracket racing or brake out times just not in my blood to let up it's full throttle to the end. That was before they had all the electronics I still cringe when they leave the line full throttle then the electronics kick in, heads start looking at their opponent and worry about breaking out. I guess it's what you grow up with several tracks I started racing at still had a flagmen.
If you do get a Funny Car the g force from 180-190 to 250 kicks in the ride is amazing it's like the difference of 50-100 x 10.
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3,4,7,8 Running Lean
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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This is s subject you can debate all day long, after boating for over 40 yrs I know a lot about water in fuel & ethanol separation. Iso-heet & heet are both just methanol or a blend of methanol & isopropanol good for frozen fuel lines, stabilizes water in fuel but does nothing for fuel separation. Valvtect is what I put in it with the Seafoam, Valvtect encapsulates the water so it can be burned through the engine & the Seafoam lubes all engine components & removes any built up varnish particles.