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grendi

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Posts posted by grendi

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I was wondering what your experience are with march performance, as my current experience is a complete nightmare:
    We bought an engine from ATK and ordered a belt kit from march with their online configuration.
    When the parts arrived in Switzerland, the brac ket for the alternator didn't fit  and the pulleys were way off, I tried to contact marchperformance and ask for advice....
    the first two mails were not answered so i tried the chat where they told me to resend the mail.
    I asked them for a different mail address to send my mail as it seemed the mails I sent from my yahoo.com account were blocked by a misconfigured mail server,  but the didn't provide me one.
    So I resent the e-mail from one of my brothers e-mail accounts and we finally received an answer from "derek" he seemed to believe I ordered the wrong kit from marchperformance and asked me about the waterpump type, so I sent him a picture. the next reply from "Derek" is just a confirmation, that the kit was made for my waterpump type.
    So again, I asked them what I should order to solve the fitting problems and after getting no answer for a week I resent the mail.
    ....

    update

    phone support does seem to work much better....... 

    20201222_151755.jpg

    20201222_151726.jpg

  3. Posted · Report reply

    On 1/24/2020 at 7:23 PM, latoracing said:

    It does exist https://www.jegs.com/i/M-H/676/ROD-29/10002/-1 in a drag radial. (which shouldn't be used for steering axle applications). Just attempting to convey an idea of bulge and relative side wall height from a visual standpoint. As a "normal" off the shelf, common size tire, I didn't go and see if it did exist.

    i guess you found the only tire available in that size, and yes, it is street legal (DOT Certified)!
    but unless your planing to convert your mustang to front wheel drive, i don't think putting those on your car is a good idea. :-D

  5. Posted · Report reply

    On 1/23/2020 at 4:06 PM, latoracing said:

    Your rear tire height is right at 28", quite tall. A 245 tire (depending on the manufacturer) would be 9.646" wide (245 / 25.4 = 9.6456"). Section width and sidewall height will help with the bulge of the side wall and overall height. I don't think it would look right with a 28" tall tire on the front, more like 26". A 245-55-15 would be 25.6106" tall (+/- per manufacturer) without much bulge, but might be similar to the rear on a 7" wide rim (I'm guessing here). The 1" difference in width (275 = 10.8268"  vs 245 = 9.6456") would need to be accounted for. 

    Me, I'd do a 10" rim out back with the 245's on an 8" rim on the front. 

    245-55-15 does not exist, but 235/60R15 does, and they are 26.1" in height, if that is the look you want and yes, the tire "bulges" will be bigger with 7" rims.
    while a backspacing of 4.5" (E~0) is correct for 8", you would need a backspacing of 4.0" to get ET~0 with 7" rims.

    i would like to mention this tool to find the right rim/tire size for your car.
    https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
    please be aware that you can try out tire sizes that simply do not exist (like the mentioned 245/55R15).

  6. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, JayEstes said:

    Here's my take - some of that may be reasonable and some of it definitely is not.  For instance, it's definitely not a good recommendation to put in performance suspension & handling for $5K.  That's NOT mandatory.  You can get new stock UCA's for lass than $50 per side (that's a lot cheaper than $350/side).

    Don't put in 620lb springs up front unless you want it to ride like a covered wagon.  I think stock springs are 300 lb/in.  Don't lower it, but instead:   The top 3 upgrades for front suspension improvement are:

    1. Redrill your shock towers to do the "Shelby/Arning drop" (if not already done) with new UCA's ($20 template + $100 for both UCA's)
    2. Put in a 1in" sway bar.  (best bang for the buck I think and makes the car safer to drive) $140
    3. New KYB Gas Adjust shocks (Maybe $100 for both)

    ........

    Make sure you don't buy cheap chinese UCA, I got the scott drake 4-rivet ones after one of my china crap UCAs locked up after 2 years and so far, they work.
    If I would buy today, I might also consider dynacorn #3631JL UCAs

    KMD88 reacted to this

  8. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    Never mind my post above, I looked at the picture you posted and thought you had a 70 coupe. On a side note, used quarter glass is kind of cheap, 

    if you live in Switzerland, nothing is cheap as you have to import everything from the US.
    .....but if you can get me both quarter windows with brackets and trim, in good quality for a reasonable price, let me know.
    A friend of me has shipping containers leaving from california to switzerland every few month.
     

  9. Posted · Report reply

    you guys are great!
    @mustangstofear good idea, however I checked the parts and I don't see them fit, as the window shape of the 69 and the 70 windows are different. 
    @aslanefe thanks for the tip with the video. it was very helpful for fixing my driver side window problem. in fact, i don't think i could have done it without.@
    @Johns Summer of 69 wow, I thought that shop was just for cougars (a friend of me gets his cougar parts there),  but they have a nice stock of parts that are not available as repros and a lot of knowledge.

    some info on the progress:
    I dropped the idea of using this kit https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-glass-conversion-kit-bolt-in-coupe-convertible-1969-1970/p/DGK1-V/ for the moment, as there are way too many parts missing and not available as repros at he moment. ...... unfortunately, I ordered that kit 3 month before WCCC released there instruction video on youtube. :-(
    So i did what I should have done a long time ago and removed the door panel of the driver door to take a look at the problem.
    It turned out that the main problem was not the glued window (but yes, I should fix in the near future too) the main problem were the window guides.
    the rear window guide was slightly out of shape and misaligned, the font window guide was lying in the door, together with the mounting screws and also slightly out of shape.
    Turns out one of the previous owners had used the wrong screws (to long in the back, to short in the front) to attach the window bracket to the window guide, resulting in two stripped threads on the front guide.
    Fix: I cut two new "M7" threads in the window guide, and shortened two "M7" screws to the right length, and replaced the back screws with the right type and length.
    I heated the rear bracket with a small torch and used a vice to get the parts back into the right shape.
    I used a combination of two original and two repro gliders on both guides to get them sliding free from play.
    So far everything looks good (y)

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I'm trying to do a 1970 windows swap on my 1969 mustang hardtop.
    Unfortunately, I recently found out, that if I change the door windows, I have to replace the quarter windows as well.
    Now I'm trying to get the chrome trim with weatherstrip that is glued to the quarter panel window. (see attached picture)
    Does anyone know where to get them?
    If someone could send me a picture of the 1970 quarter panel window assembly guide page it would also help greatly.

    1970 side view.jpg

  15. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, LiLMike said:

    I think you have to buy the entire mirror. Don't think they make just the internals. One thing I did that you may like is the convex mirror on the passenger side.

    https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/glass_assy_outside_racing_mirror_convex-183515-1.html

    i did this on both my cars i can recommend it, even if you have to replace the brand new mirror glass of a new racing style mirror.

    LiLMike reacted to this

  16. Posted · Report reply

    basically it looks just like on your third picture, but the small barrel has a screw from the side that fixes the cable.
    Unfortunatly, when i had the engine done, my mechanic must have had a problem with his ears when i asked him to contact me before modding any original part of my car.
    he tried to use the lokar clevis and used a dremel to make the hole bigger.
    i had to fix that as you can see on my picture, i bent a washer disk to fit the original rounding and glued it to the pedal with 2K epoxy for metal.

    pedal.png
    get a cable stop that has the hole as close to the center as possible and is at least 1/2" wide without screw. 

    pedal2.JPG

  18. Posted · Report reply

    before we give any suggestions, we should first know some basics, like:

    • what is the current size of your rims
    • what is the current size of your tires
    • how accurate is the speedometer with the current tire size
    • are you planing to use the current rims or go with another size
    • how is this car going to be driven (street, track, weather ...)
    RPM reacted to this

  25. Posted · Report reply

    same here, not a lot of new stuff to post, unless your interested in 68 el caminos, or info on how to change diapers on a baby. :biggrin:

     

    i do however stack a bunch of boxes with mustang parts in my basement.

    a lot of stuff that will be installed withing the next 2-4 years.

    -70' side windows and rails

    -front and rear frame and torque boxes

    -new rear wheelhouses

    -quarter panel skins

    -dynamats

    -dashboard

    -remote trunk opener

    -led's for the instrument cluster

    ....

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