bryonbush

when i finished my engine swap this spring, i ended up having to cut my fan shroud in half for it to clear the fans. I installed a Champion 3 row, 24", passenger side radiator and with the stock shroud it would hit the fans. So i cut it in half, and was using the lower half but it looked trashy. Wanting to find a shroud that will work with the thicker radiator. Anyone have any suggestions?

I'm down

right now its just a machined, bare block. The heads are assembled with new valves and was planning on new springs.

okay this may be silly: but ive been looking at these engine rebuild kits online. Summit has one with Fed Mog parts. then i found one company called engine tech. ive read some ok reviews on the engine tech guys. what yall think of those?

sorry for the delay. been working 3rd shift w/ 15 hr days. Thanks for the info and glad some of the negativity god removed. i still may end up switching to different heads but im really trying to keep myself on a tight budget on this one. like i said, the rear gears will probably be in the high 3's and with it being a track car, it will probably be high revving. Mikestang: Thanks for the hook up and when you find the info, lets see what the pro's here have to say. maybe ill build what i can and decide on the heads later to top it off and keep my eye open for a good deal.

id like to get 500hp out of this with the heads... just kidding! i would like to get as much as possible and plan ahead for when i do get better heads. as for now, keeping it simple. the heads were squared and the block was leveled off as well so that will help with the compression i believe. i plan on using some type of headers which will help too.

That's great man thanks. Wouldn't I have to change some stuff to make rollers work?

I'm planning on putting this in a foxbody for a cheap track build. They usually have gears in the mid to high 3's. Down the road I'll probably change out heads but trying to keep it cheap right now

Got my 302 back from the shop. Going to keep the heads for now but looking for a better cam and intake.

still got the rears?

Sure can! I'll have to try to get a video for ya.

FINALLY got this figured out. There was a part on that was rubbing from the TPS sensor kit that was making it so the valves wouldnt close all the way making me have high idle and engine run on when shutting down. This also created the issues with the squirters not getting a full cycle when it came to dishing out the gas. got the idle set and during the test drive, got no hesitation and left some rubber on the road. For anyone on the FMV facebook page i posted a short video of the engine running up without any hesitation. Still going to hit up the timing though to see if i get any improvements.

got home yesterday night and got the timing numbers: 16 initial, 28ist total.

rsmach1: no offense needed.here's the problem: this is the first car that ive ever had with a carb and where i had to do any type of engine adjustment so im flying by online instructors. im out of town for the week but i will get those numbers on timing. I had to re set the timing from what it was originally set at from the shop. i had to change the dist so i set the initial at 16 (if i remember right) then drove it and upped the timing till i started to hear a ping, then backed it back down.

I forgot to get you the timing info. I installed a wideband system and surprisingly everything is where it should be except when I stab it and get the hesitation. That's when it shows me running very lean for that quick initial punch. When I did get it to burn out, I got the hesitation then solid RPMs. Other than going pedal to floor right away, it runs great without any other issues.

finally got around to getting the new discharge nozzles in. i went to a 32 but was surprised to find out that the factory one is a 31. The shop didnt have any of the cams so im stuck with the black one for now. put in the new nozzle and still have the same studdering issue when i punch the throttle. I watched and there was a very healthy squirt of fuel during the throttle opening, so maybe going to a 35 might be the next step.

Fluid was good. I ended up making my own fuse link to mount it to the solenoid. Works good now

was having issues with my top then the motor gave up the ghost. Just put in a new motor and it wont even lift the top. i gave it some assistance on getting it up and down to help work out some air bubbles but still not going on its own. Its like im not getting enough power to the motor. My fuseable link comes from the voltage regulator to the main line to the switch then the motor. the wire from the regulator is pretty small compared to the main wire. is there a way to get more power to the motor?

i bought a set of Koni Strt for the back of the car first. very happy with them compared to the monre blue shocks. I just ordered the set for the front. Not sure how they compare to Koni reds but for $200 for 4, its a good middle range investment.

i bought a set of Koni Strt for the back of the car first. very happy with them compared to the monre blue shocks. I just ordered the set for the front. Not sure how they compare to Koni reds but for $200 for 4, its a good middle range investment.

1969mach: you live in the Dallas area by chance? I'd probably mess something up trying to dial this thing in. I'll look into a new cam and some jets today as I'll probably need them. Here's where I saw the stall speed on a stock 4r trans.http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/54585-4r70w-torque-converter-stall-rpm.html#/forumsite/20799/topics/54585?page=1

ive read on here before about guys installing a wideband system. i got mine in the mail today and the instructions say i need a 12v source that will provide 3amp draw. anyone have any suggestions on a source? this is origanily was a non tach car. I also want to put in an aftermarket tach which also requires 12v source. would there be a way to run a heavy line from the solenoid, back down to the fuse box area with a fuse in there to hook up both tach and wideband and have plenty of power?

Well, today i went to the bank and the road was smoother than others. after a slow pull out of the bank, semi straightened the wheels and punched it. Got the tires to kick the car straight. Didnt change anything with the carb so maybe the road conditions were in my favor. It did rev.. hesitate, then took off though. to follow up on the torque converter: i read a post someone made showing a photo from the ford manual showing that the factory stall speed for 4r trans was in the mid to high 2K.

215/55r17 tires, limited slip unit

I put the tire size in but the conversion is a 26" tall by 8.4" wide