Rsmach1
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Posts posted by Rsmach1
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Well it's been a while since I shopped for a dist (almost had to take a nitro pill when I saw the prices lol). No doubt MSD is the best, stay away from pro comp and proform, I have no experience with pertronix distributors. When I put my car back together I'll probably just use a Duraspark and a MSD box (yes old school).
Might be a good time to start a new thread to see what everyone is running and get some opinions.
Edit; Depending on how long you've had your's you might try calling Summit to see if they will take it back and give you credit towards an MSD. Tell them what happened, Never hurts to try.
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Good point Ray.
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Interesting, if the gear does indeed simply slide off after the roll pin is removed that means the pin is carrying 100% of the load. Normally as stated by 1969_Mach1 they are pressed on, which helps carry at least some of the load. If you are using a HV oil pump, I'd probably go with a different distributor to help avoid this issue. In fact I'd probably avoid this dist all together.
Nice to see you back 1969_Mach1.
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I would also recommend you turn the engine over (2x) by hand and check the cam gear real good.
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Wow Brian, you could eat off that intake, it's cleaner than my dishes lol. I miss my old FE cars :-/
I would still use a primer and a drill, this will better simulate the pump at speed.
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So stock 69 351w 2v (very nice car and story btw), what octane fuel did you use?
Disregard the compression/cam questions.
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Ty Ray, off to check it out.
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OK, getting back to the matter at hand TinMan, because you stated you had hardened seats installed I'm guessing the engine has been rebuilt. Do you know if it was done stock? Any idea what compression? Stock or performance cam?
You will need a timing light, and if you can't see the the marks, the balancer tape. With the above info and the tools we can get started tuning (much more to come after this). As usual not my thumb. -
Could be the oil pump, or something got by the p/u screen and lodged in the pump. If you have an oil pump primer I would definitely hook it up to a drill and see how it spins, if not I would get one.
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And here is a brief excerpt from that article.
"The preferred vacuum source is the timed source. This way there is no effect on the initial timing setting. "
I would +1 but it might seem self serving as it came from a link in my post lol.
barnett468 reacted to this -
Here's a write up https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/
As for your balancer if you can see The TDC mark, you can always buy a tape with the marks and attach it to the balancer.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163594?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KEQjwte27BRCM6vjIidHvnKQBEiQAC4MzrUs9fhlzGjFt1BrJQZNSGGJ9VsegavzRwg5qtHENCiYaAm2g8P8HAQnot my thumb -
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You want all the fuel to burn, it's all about efficiency, retarding the ignition timing will cause an engine to work harder, working harder causes heat. Too much advance will cause detonation, this will cause heat as well, having as much advance as you can, without detonation, is where an engine will run most efficient.
As for your balancer, it will have timing marks engraved, you simply need to clean it off to find the marks.
Edit, a bad tune will cause an engine to run hot, be it timing, poor spark, fuel mixture.
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Oh, there will always be new surprises :) It's looking nice, congrats on the fix and progress!
Ain't that the truth lol. You'll get there, and it is looking good.
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+1 running rich and rebuild the carb.
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Nice looking car Alvin. I like the taillight mod.
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+3, and/or red Scotch Brite pads
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#1. Get working gauges, personally I NEVER run an engine without a temp and oil pressure gauge.
#2. Invest in a timing light (you can get a cheap one for like $30 bucks), if you want to adjust timing you NEED TO HAVE ONE! Retarding an engine will make it run HOTTER. You want as much advance as possible without the engine pinging (detonation).
A 180° thermostat is perfect.
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+1, For performance use .060 over is pushing it with any stock sbf block. Ideally .030 is max, the most I would go is .040 and only if it all checks good. This is not to say it hasn't been done, you just have to know going in with higher hp/torque levels, really bad things can happen...
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Hey Kaspar, just wanted to make sure you're aware, the lunatti cam you listed is a hydraulic roller, while the rest are hydraulic flat tappet. The Voodoo FT would be part #10350701,
Specs Advertised 256/262
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/219
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .483/.499
LSA/ICL: 112/108
RPM Range: 1000-5500
Next step up would be #10350702
Specs Advertised (Int/Exh): 262/268
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .499/.522
LSA/ICL: 112/108
RPM Range: 1400-5800
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+1 with Ray. I'd also get in the habit of starting the car and bringing it up to temp bi-weekly or at least monthly when being stored. Dried up carb gaskets/seals might also be causing issues.
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1st think I'd try is to run the tank low and get a fresh tank of fuel. Also check for vacuum leaks all around the carb and check fuel pressure(do you have a vacuum/pressure gauge?) When you say almost brand new, how long has the carb been on the car?
Edit also check your choke setting and operation.
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Pedal to the metal, now car stumbles and turns off
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Well, worth a try lol. So just be sure to check the pump, preferably with a primer, or if you're getting a new dist your old one (less the gear) and a drill.