Raven R code

That kit looks scary!

Breathing new life into this older thread! I'm in the process of replacing the door skins on my doors and I found this tool that may help out quite a bit. Check this out: Anyone use this tool yet? Haven't heard it mentioned in any other post. Hitting this subject hard right now..... Looking for the best skins available. Looking for crisp lines and straight edges. I don't want to have to weld rods to the door edges to fix gaps either. So cast your vote for the best panels and experiences. ***until I'm satisfied with parts, you may see me asking about this in another post! ;) Dave

I have an original ford brochure and dealer/ford option list specifically for 1969 Mustang. There is no mention of a supercharger. On the other hand, I know of two 1969 Mustangs that were sent out to get factory sunroofs at the same place that the Cougars had them installed. So anything is possible.

Well....had the rustfree doors down to the body shop today. Door skin replacement is the way to go. I will blast and seal the door shells before putting the new skins on. Any more feedback on door skins is appreciated as I need to purchase very soon. LaurelMountain Mustang offers door skins with "improved" tooling. I plan to call to see what these are about.

So....you are saying 15x7 is the max size rim for the front then? I plan to keep all 4 rims the same size so I can rotate them. I was also thinking of lowering the whole car 1".

Did you have to move the roof medallion pins? If so, how did you go about it? Thanks, Dave

Just curious what people are running on 15"x8" Magnum 500's? I am going with them on both front and rear.

guess I will go with the ford tooling dash pad.

You are lucky! I'm an IT guy that is taken a crash course on autobody on youtube. :death: I just picked up Eastwoods concourse paint gun with 3 tips and a dual action palm sander. :crying: going to give it a shot!

I'm looking for a fastback trunk lid. My current lid is clean except for the folded edge on the rear lip (just above the tail light panel). With this round of paint, I don't want to deal with surface rust or defects in that area). Dave PS: going to the body shop tomorrow early to get my hood (crunched in the nose), 2 rust free doors (leaning toward getting skins) and trunk lid looked at for repair and get ready for paint.

what exactly does this mean? I'm looking at a new dash pad. I see one listed as being made with ford tooling. Does that mean someone bought the old ford equipment or has someone simply used an original to make new molds? I've been looking at other "ford tooling " parts as well and wonder if that is the way to go? thx

great pics! On the subject, I just found a local guy that specializes in skinning doors. He has a roller crimper of some sort that is specific to making the folded edges look just like the factory. Keep the pictures rolling! Dave

thats it! thanks!

Does anyone know where to get one of those strut braces that locks into the door hinge area and door latch to keep the car supported and spaced when replacing inner and outer rockers? This would be for a 66 convert. thx

Good call! That would very helpful as I need to do the same.

Ok...good info from all. Not sure what the letters mean at the end of 4868 though. I just looked at one of the rustfree doors I bought and one happens to have original gulfstream aqua on it. Aqua all the way! :)

Does anyone know the correct dupont paint code for Gulfstream Aqua (F code)? Is it 4868LH, 4868D or 4868K? Also, paint guy asked if the original paint had metalflake and if it was ( I think) a single stage paint (originally). I'm pretty sure original had very small flake in it. My paint list currently consist of the following: Dupont Chromabase 4868K: $402/gallon; Grow 13704 reducer $24/gallon Dupont G27779S Clear: $195/gallon; hardener 7775S $66/qt. Epoxy Primer (with metal etch) & 2qt activator: $160 PS: are there any online places to get Dupont products on the cheap?

Trying not to be partial but....the 69 Mach 1 is probably one of the best looking muscle cars. The front and rear spoiler, side scoops,roof medallions, blacked out hood, rear window slats and shaker hood set it apart from anything else! The Mach 1 was designed to replicate the awesomeness of the P-51 Mustang and I believe that is where the Mustang name originated.....not from the horse. I picked mine up as a present to myself for the end of my army stint. good call on the mexically trash ;)

lol!!...There is nothing like a built FE....and nothing better than it being in a 69 Mach 1!! I've never seen the snake CJ covers before ....I think I need them!

Great info on this Jeff! Thanks, Dave

you have water mixing into the oil or moisture from sitting. Although, my car has been sitting outside for 15yrs and no milky issues. Car started right up after draining gas and oil. Pressure testing is the easiest thing to do. I would not run the motor until you know for sure.

Thanks everyone for your input! Thanks for for posting the pictures too. The pictures help out a lot. I'm getting more comfortable about replacing this part. I also have a rotobroach cutter coming to start this off. The part that sucks is the drivers quarter panel has to come off and the passenger side trunk floor needs to come out.....why couldn't this all happen to one side only ;)

Those plain, finned aluminum covers are what came on my 428. Does anyone know how the plain covers are to be finished? Are they polished or like a satin (bead blasted ) finish? thx

that's what I was afraid of. I assume the dynacorn factory quarters don't have the pins. Sounds like I'll have to graft the pins on from the old piece.