larryc94

http://www.moderntiredealer.com/news/394893/coker-group-purchases-wheel-vintiques So in 2011 Coker buys Wheel Vintique and in 2014 opens a facility to manufacture and distribute wheels and tires. Maybe there is a separate manufacturing facility at that building that produces Wheel Vintique wheels

In that link there a banner for Wheel Vintique, I guess there just advertising for them. Maybe there just renting space in Cokers building PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA SINCE 1986. MADE IN AMERICA Since 1986, Wheel Vintiques has been manufacturing steel wheels for restored classics, muscle cars and hot rods. All manufacturing processes are handled in house, at our facility in City of Industry, California. TRUE O.E. FITMENT Wheel Vintiques manufactures wheels for many applications, and offers authentic O.E. fitment for high quality restorations. Precise sizing and single bolt patterns make our O.E. wheels the best on the market. CUSTOM SIZING Along with direct O.E. fitment, Wheel Vintiques offers custom sizing in many of our wheels. Larger diameters and wider overall widths are available, and custom backspacing is available on most wheels.

Well it seems that Wheel Vintique, Specialty wheel and Coker tire in City of Industry CA all have the same address 14955 Don Julian Rd City of Industry, Ca 91746 https://www.cokertire.com/blog/grand-opening-coker-tire-city-of-industry-california/

There all made in the same factory just put in different boxes since Coker bought Specialty, and Wheel Vintique. At one time they were made by separate factories and had different qualities.

I still have my original column untouched and waited till I found a column on CL for $75 to start the project. Figured if It didn't work out could always go back my original back..options..options

What year do you have?

I have the Equinox with the Bruno box, manual and no a/c. It's clocked about 3:30-4:00. I had to remove the dash brace that connects to the right booster stud and has a sheet metal screw to the lower dash. It's like above the gas pedal. I don't think it does much because the lower dash is strengthened by the column. Be honest didn't think it would fit there but it does. It's the only place I had I think on a '69 you may have more options because the column to dash bracket I think is a little smaller. Right now I'm lookin at '80 to maybe '91 Bronco/F-150 tilt columns w/floor shift that I think I could mod to fit the EPS. Our car's are not very ergonomic and and I did the TMI first version of sport seats. I lessened the distance from steering wheel to seat. It has a very slight larger bolsters, If I didn't tell someone they look stock. TMI came out with Sort seats II because the version I have is just a slight difference from stock May sound stupid but I can't get into the mustang like most new cars. If I do my right leg gets jammed between seat and steering wheel. So I sit sideways in the seat with my both legs outside the car and the swing my legs in. Getting out I put my left hand on the sill plate and pivot out

Yes to EPS

Those are some calculations, I know it just works. BTW what happens when the gas is in a vapor state! I know the fuel in the CC has had to been boiling at some point. It get hot under hood, no a/c and can feel the heat inside cabin but has never affected anything

Drilled and tapped the hole. Line is black but did check it one time after car was shut for 10 min and popped gas cap and see fuel spitting out into the filler neck The "P" trap thing was perpetrated elsewhere and yes fuel will be in the line, but you have pressure or vacuum acting on it. In your house the P trap doesn't impede flow because of the pressure pushing it, same here but you can have vacuum too. The CC vent is not an atmospheric vent. If it was then the P trap scenario would affect it The problem somebody had was they tried to repurpose a vent line back to the tank that had a built in restrictor. And every time he got stuck he blow the line through pushing fuel pass the restrictor, and it worked till the line filled again. Some of the GM cars do have a line you can use but you have check it for restriction. If you can blow thru it free it's good to use, if not you'll end up with the problems he had One thing he posted his problems on many forums so hence the wide spread problem

I have the O2 right after the bend where the H pipe is horizontal. The vent line I ran is 1/4 nylon fuel line with these clips http://www.quickclips.org/home/ and used a 1/8npt x1/4 barbed fitting screwed into the filler neck

It's a 351c with 4v CC heads, rpm airgap manifold, Fitech EFI, Crane 222/234 duration, .534/.539 lift, roller rockers and Sanderson shorty headers. I'm thinkin 350 hp at least. Yea will light up tires pretty easy. The SD mid-eye rear springs are 4.5's, the half leaf in on top and in front to prevent wheel hop, Opentraker sells the exact SD spring. Also the 3.70 rear is a trac-lok and frame connectors Probably could have got reverse eye and wouldn't needed the 1" blocks. I felt if I got the reverse eye and was too low I'd SOL. With the mid-eye I could add or remove blocks to get it where I wanted. Have KYB Gr2,s all around. I can't stress enough how the front handles and takes bad washboard roads

The airgap comes with a notch in the divider and I think the 351w sits taller than a 351c. The shaker fits but I would like it 1/2" lower, I could rework the base

Thanks

They are 15x7 and 4.25 BS. I have a bit of unusual set up, the front springs are "620's" for a 65-66 which are 1" lower than a 67-70 spring. So 1" shorter because 65-66+ 1" shorter because 620's are 1" lower+2" lower. Guy's usually end up cutting the 67-70 spring because it's to high, with setup no need to cut springs and springs works as designed. Use 3/4 poly spacer on top spring to tower. If I used 1/4"poly spacer the springs became loose when jacked up or put on a lift. The 3/4" keeps spring in place. Springs are not cut and have roller perches, it sit's as low as it can with out effecting ride or bottoming out. It rides really well can take speed bumps at like 5-10 mph. fenders not rolled and and no hint of rubbing. The tires front and rear are tucked Have the Shelby drop with -0.75* camber and 3.2* caster Rear have SD 4.5 mid eye with 1" blocks. The back only has about 3" clearance between rear and bumper. The back will hit the stop on good dip but not touching 1/4 or wheelhouse

I have a RPM airgap on 351c with a command center for 2 years, I've been in parades , stuck in traffic in 90* temps and never had a problem. The command center is not modified. The dual plane runs fine and with a 3.70 rear and 5 sp it's always in the power band and just pulls. I also have the dreaded 4v cc heads, if you run the correct cam it has ton's of low end

It has to go back to the tank unrestricted

I stand by what I posted

Your right about Coker buying Wheel Vintique and Specialty. Last year I replaced my 28 yr old Specialty Mag 500's, I got the Wheel Vintique mag 500's from CJ's with new tires mounted and balanced. They ride good and are smooth to 95-100 mph. I also looked at the aluminum version and the features and shine are different. I know I wouldn't be happy because they just don't look right. I know everybody has the chrome mag 500 but it is a great looking wheel IMHO. Also I'm not a fan of the "wagon wheel look" on a classic, I have to see some tire. I have 235/60-15 all around and my car is lowered so the wheels are "tucked"

Yes and one between the banjo bolt and the flexible brake line "block"

The bleeders have to point towards the back of the car. If they point up they are wrong

I got mine in 1989 over the counter at Ford, it was semi gloss black and I think is was around $40

One of the problems with the setup is there are too many connections (I count about 9 and your allowed .2v each). I had 11.5v at the horns and they would not work. If I jumped direct to the battery they work. Solution is to install a relay which it should of had in the first place and use the horn circuit to activate the coil side of the relay. Power the relay with a fuse off the positive battery lug of the soleniod