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10851CVC

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About 10851CVC

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    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 11/11/1983

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  1. That is the magnetic antenna for the touch screen Clarion GPS, I built this as a daily driver.
  2. The hood is a custom hood, only thing that was half salvageable from the body shop I had problems with. I'm not at all happy with it and I am currently looking for a regular hood to possibly do a shaker setup. I haven't finished the front end yet. Not to sure what I want to do with that area yet. I'm thinking about getting rid of the inner high beam lamps all together.
  3. Its been almost a year since I updated this. Since then I have been ripped off by a body shop, then I personally finished and painted the car, built a ford 9" with 3:73 gears and a detroit locker, added a TCP rack & pinion, and installed a a GPS (another thread on here titled "custom GPS install"). About a month ago I got my 408 stroker from woody at fordstrokers so now i will be working on finishing that and getting the T56 behind it. Here are some recent pics, and a pic of the 408 after I put the heads on last night. [ATTACH]8706[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]8708[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]8707[/ATTACH]
  4. Research that mustang II front end before you dive into it. Some good sites include cornercarvers, pro-touring, and lateral-G. Im sure after a couple hours of reading you will change your mind. I would stick with the TCP stuff or another similar brand.
  5. I have had this happen to me. Not only will it fry the point it will smoke the coil too.
  6. These pictures are perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
  7. Good article, makes me want to convert to 70 glass.
  8. Does anyone have an exploded view of a 1969 door showing how the window regulator installs into the door along with the rest of the window hardware? The Door shells we have are bare, so we need an example to to see if we have all the parts to re install the side windows into the doors.
  9. Check your vacuum lines, especially the pcv valve line and the valve itself.
  10. Probably because I have not driven mine yet :(
  11. Rolled fenders in the rear, small minute massage to the the inner wheel wells. Nothing that is even close to noticeable. On the front there is a 1/8 inch spacer to keep the rim off the upper a-arm ball joint. I am actually trying to replace the upper A- arm ball joint all together with a flat top uni-ball joint so I can get rid of the spacer. And just for FYI the front of the car in that pic has the shelby 1" drop, TCP power rack, an 3/4 of a coil from 2" inch drop coils cut out. The back has reverse eyed leaf springs. I wish i could go lower with the car and cover a little more of the 18's but I am maxed out on clearance for my long tube headers, any lower and the car wont be drivable.
  12. If I had a dollar for every time somebody told me "nope that wont work" I would be a millionaire and my car would look like just like any other mustang. Heres a pic of my current wheel setup that I was told "that will never work" Front wheels are 18x9, 6.18" BS, 1.18 OFFSET Back wheels 18x10. 6.6" BS, 1.1 OFFSET [ATTACH]7850[/ATTACH] Remember its all about hotroding. I say try them out if they guy will let you check the fitment before committing to buying. If anything with a 20" rim at that width you may just need to massage the inner wheel wells.
  13. If you look into an EZ- wiring harness, I just did one on a 69 and can more then help out with all the wiring conversions from the GM plugs it comes with. I think they run under 200. Just a thought.
  14. Here is the setup: Rear 1998 cobra disc brakes, stock disc/drum brake booster and master cylinder, proportioning valve for rear brakes. Stock disc brakes up front (for now) The problem: After bleeding all of the brakes the brake pedal is very stiff, the pedal remains stiff when the car is off. When the car turns on the pedal becomes very loose (almost feels like there is no fluid pressure). There are no brake line leaks and there is definitely a good vacuum connection from the intake manifold to the brake booster. Should the pedal feel like this? Its like the pedal has no pressure until the very end and then it engages the brakes. Is there a step I am missing from this disc brake swap?
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