THE EVIL TW1N

My brother ran a claysmiths fuel pump on his 533 BBF. He originally ran a return line but later removed it since he felt he didn't need it. He said a bunch of people over at fordmuscle forums said it isn't really necessary. I don't know much on fuel systems, so I'll probably be calling Holley regarding their 170gph HP fuel pump. Says you don't have to run a fuel pressure regulator (built in). Not even sure if its overkill for my set up tho.

I don't feel like taking the tank out to sump it (laziness on my part). How important is it to run a return line?

Got it. What air cleaner set up are you running? and did you need motor mounts that lowered the engine to fit the Vic Jr intake? Is Ron Morris (RMP) the only company that offers lowering motor mounts?

Would the stock sending unit be tough to modify, or is it just worth it to just get the RobbMC sending unit? $206 shipped isn't too bad, just wondering. And I still haven't figured out the fuel pump I'm going to run, but I do want to stick with a mechanical one.

Thanks, I just found them too. I'm a dummy lol

I couldn't find a username by that name. Any help contacting him?

Nice. What pulley system did you go with?

I called CHP, yes they do run torque plates and recommend studs. Also, combo has changed. I called AFR, couldn't get a hold of them. Was trying to confirm if the 205's come with solid roller valve train. Looking around on dealers websites, it looked like it did. That would explain the .700 lift. So I'm just gonna run the TFS 205 11R since I've always liked their heads (ran TW heads before on a SB, also on a BBF) and already come with the right hardware. Edited my original post.

Ok, the shortblock is already getting built by CHP. Basically, the engine will be an TFS 205 11R head/C4 combo making ~525ish hp. 1. What headers would you guys recommend? 2. What fuel pump? 3. I'm guessing fuel line will be -8an (I haven't fully researched). Do they sell an aftermarket fuel sender that I can swap in? I'm sure there are other questions that will come up. Thanks in advance.

This is an old pic. The interior is complete now except for headliner. I basically just put a flat piece of textured plastic (from TAP Plastics) and put in some gauges. Looks good I think. I still run an amp and speakers. I have it wired up so bascially you just plug in an iPod or mp3 player (phone) to play music.

I really thought that notch was supposed to be there, it looked like it was cast into it last I looked at my door handles. I'll have to take apart my doors again.

Mine does the same thing. When I looked at the handle, it looked like the notch is supposed to be there to catch the rod. Is the notch not supposed to be there?

I like that, looks cool and different. The whole car looks cool. I hadn't realized that the OP had indicated it was for a coupe.

I have an Anvil rear lip spoiler on my car, I really like it. If I had pictures with my car completed to do it justice I'd post them.

I think my repro parts have been good for the most part. Those being weatherstripping, chrome quarter window frames, floor stampings, rear quarter panel (dynacorn), front and rear valance (dynacorn), front spoiler, front grill, interior dash trim pieces, dash cover, carpet, door sills, turn signal harness, grill moldings (complete), switch knobs, fuel tank, interior panels, door glass molding, window cranks, door locks, sway bar, leaf springs/shackles, reverse lights, front turn signals, side marker lights and trim, headlight rings, windshield. So far the only real fail has been the hood molding. Also, the arm rests, and fiberglass package tray (had to be cut) are less than perfect as well. Off topic: How come people call repro parts "repo" or even worse, "repop"? Repop is a brand.

Sounds like you need a pan fill dipstick. Summit sells a few for ~$60. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-646491/overview/make/ford

2" is too small IMO, you would be better served with 2.5".

The weight will make zero difference on the dyno, as was also posted by someone else. That cam in that package is plenty healthy to make power past 5000 rpm, I would guess closer to 6000 before dropping off. What's the air/fuel ratio look like? Maybe running lean? Or even rich? Something is mismatched in your combo probably. What size exhaust are you running? Those Tri-Y's are probably not helping too much, you probably should move up to long tubes. Also, you will need a higher stall converter (I didnt see that listed on your post), somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000-3500. Could be that the cam was installed a couple degrees retarded. Was it degreed, or installed straight up?

I'm going to guess the car will make ~260 rwhp / 300 rwtq. Running in 3rd is the correct gear, but I dont think you will see a huge difference. Obviously I don't know your complete combo since you havent completely listed it. 5.0's (87-93) running those heads through a T-5 would typically make about 280-290 rwhp, but that's through a more efficient transmission (~12% vs ~15-18%) and more efficient rear end (8.8 vs 9").

I really like Por15. I've used that and will continue to use that. I'm not sure if I'd go power brakes, but definately would upgrade. I would do some nice 13" Cobra brakes since all the kits use the drum brake front spindles anyways. As for the rear, that's a toss up. You wont notice much improvement at all doing those up, but it wouldnt hurt anything (except your wallet a little).

Doesnt look like a big ticket 69. Hopefully it can pull an ok amount if it really has a working 428 in it. Off topic somewhat. Next time a better thread title would be better. Something more specific, like "Need help please identifying vehicle/options" or something along those lines. Just 99% of the threads on this board can be titled "Need help please".

Thanks for the help guys. Took a blow torch and a lot of elbow grease. I got better at removing it to wards the end, was not heating it up quite as much as I should have at first. I then used a stripping wheel to clean up the groove afterward. I got one window glued in and ready! I'll be gluing in the other saturday probably.

You dont need the plastic "bracket". The screws go through the bracket too. It's just a plastic piece that goes under the switch, nothing fancy.

Thanks again guys. I spent a couple hours on it today with VERY little progress. I'll either buy a torch tomorrow and see how that works for me, or just take them to a shop to get them media blasted or something.

This sucks. Chiseling is not working for me at all. I'd be lucky if it would come out a 1/4 in at a time. I also tried heating it up with a heat gun, that didnt help. I set epoxy remover on there extra thick right now, lets see if that works. There's got to be some sort of acid that would disolve this stuff. I might just use my grinding wheel, but I think i'd be hitting the metal often.