THE EVIL TW1N

Even if your piece is in great shape, if you have it apart, it is worth just upgrading. And removing the old bushing was very simple actually. A dremel took care of real quick.

If I could do it over, I would get 1/2" lowering mounts from the get go. I went with Ron Morris Performance fully adjustable. It gives you the most options going forward. I also have a 427w, but am also running a T56 Magnum.

and what did that translate to on a dyno?

I've had Taylor, Mallory, and MSD plug wires (including custom cut to size wires) on multiple setups, and my favorite's are still the standard Ford Motorsports wires. Save your money, get the Ford wires

I'm pretty sure Repop doesn't make them, but even the other companies who reproduce them aren't too good. Mine were cracked pretty good and had some extra holes from whatever the previous owner drilled into them. I repaired with epoxy and filling in the holes. Then I used an interior texture spray (you'd have to go to a specialty automotive paint store) and sprayed them. I 100% cannot tell the areas that are repaired.

Yes, a cat will kill some power. But more importantly, I would never put a cat on a car that wasn't designed for one due to it likely failing (breaking/clogging) in a short amount of time.

as stated earlier, cat's quiet down the vehicle immensely, more than mufflers actually. A car with no cats is much louder than one with no mufflers.

are you planning on building the car for yourself, or for someone else? Do to it what makes you happy.

I'll have to look it up, I don't have the specs on me. They are Coys Wheels. I have 5 leaf reverse eye lowering leaf springs on the rear with an additional 1" lowering block. Basically a stock style type set up for the most part. The fronts are some stiff springs that I'm pretty sure were cut. They were pretty much the only thing that the previous owner did right.

I run 18's, see sig

LoL the original post seems to be oozing as an advertisement. .. curious to see what the test results from the guinea pigs/first adopters will be.

I forget where I ordered it from, but it's just the standard front spoiler I think. How many different types are there?

I know this isn't a TFS vs AFR heads thread, but the TFS make slightly more low end TQ AND HP. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mmfp-0608-cylinder-head-shootout/viewall.html That's based on the older TFS heads design with the smaller 2.02 valves vs. the 2.08's that they now use.

I run 1 3/4" ceramic coated Super Competition Hooker headers. The old 205 TFS heads were a pinch better than the AFR 205's. These new TFS heads are supposed to be an improvement on top of that, but there's no real worl info out yet.

Your set up is not too different than mine. I would expect about 525hp /550 tq. I still need to dyno mine, I haven't been able to find any independent dyno's of the 11R heads. You are running the 205 heads, yes? Which headers/exhaust too?

Nice. I have pretty much the same set up, except I have Phantom II's with the tach and water temp on right, speedo and oil pressure on the left. I also have volt gauge and fuel level where the radio use to be.

I have the straight cable in mine.

I had to buy a repro passenger side mirror (bought an original driver side on ebay). If I had to do it again, I would have also bought the repro driver side one too. They aren't 100% EXACTLY the same, but the difference is so minimal that you can't even tell the difference even when they are right next to each other. They are 98% the same.

I'll have to try something similar. Maybe on tuesday or wednesday if I can.

If you figure it out, let me know by posting your solution here. My interior door handles have the same issues and have taken them apart with no results.

This is the only way I know of, but it may not be at the accuracy the OP is looking for. Maybe putting a mark or some tape on the crank pulley before doing the 90* spins.

Oh I see, that makes sense. I don't know of any markings at all that would indicate TDC for any of the other cylinders. I guess we'll have to wait for a better answer.

You can look at the valves. For each cylinder, when the exhaust valve is beginning to open, the intake valve is at the base of the cam circle. When the intake valve is beginning to close, the exhaust valve will be at thee base of the cam circle. Unless you are trying to do them both at the same time, then you would need to know exact TDC.

its common for the plastic ears to break off. I think mine is held by one screw only since the other side broke. I'll have to check that out, I had forgotten about it.