Chris'69Mach

I dont understand what these clips are used for. Curiosity has peaked my interest. The chucklehead that installed new rubber on my car may have missed something. On my drivers door, the glass is not making a tight seal and when I drive down the road, I get the whistling sound. The 1/4 window glass doesnt make a good seal either. Is this due to these clips not being installed? If so, post a couple pics please as I am a visual person.

doh !!

Has anyone used Amsoil's Z-Rod 10w-30? I am a little gun shy using synthetic oil in my Cleveland at the moment. Now, if had recently rebuilt the engine myself, then I would use the synthetic oil with ZDDP in it.

Thanks for the info! You got my curiosity up and did a little research. The oil you are using is a perfect alternative to Rotella T 10w-30. How often are you changing your oil? 3k or beyond?

I would go with a 180* stat. The engine will run cooler and like you better for it :thumbup1:

I was wondering if anyone on here uses the Rotella brand oil in their engines for the zinc additive or they just add in the additive with reg dino oil.

Hook up a 9v battery to it and see how long they run. Mine only runs when I compress the springs with my fingers.

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Let me try to explain what I mean a little better. When I say they are a littlemore than flat, I mean the ends of the leaf springs are lower than the center of the leafs that are att eh axle.

yup, yours has more of a positive bow to it than mine does. THAT is what I wanted to see .... Thanks for the pic !!

I have to strongly disagree with you. The leaf springs need replaced. They are a little more than flat/straight.

Scotty? What is that?

What is the name of the yard you are refering to and where in NC?

I am looking for a working stock clock that is on the passenger side dash panel. My clock's springs are wore out and I would need to take it apart and tighten the springs in order to get it to work correctly.

I prefer to do all the wrench turning myself and do not have the luxury of an impact wrench. So I use a pipe I put over my 1/2 drive ratchet :001_smile: What are the torque specs if any on the leaf spring hardware? Yes, I am going to replace the u-bolts too.

I do not have it lowered and I do have the 255/60/15 with the 4.5 backspacing. That is why I was leaning to replace the leaf springs .... Like I have said, doing my normal driving around my area, I do not have the rubbing issue. I guess the roads around here are in better shape than the roads in Ohio. Do I go with stock leafs or a beefier set? A link would be extremely greatful.

I do believe the tires are hitting the outter lips of the wheel wells. I have replaced the shocks a couple months ago. Just not sure about the leaf springs. I am sure they are original to the car and I am unsure how they should look as far as how much bend there should be while sitting. They look to be straight now without and positive curve to them. Are the leafs wore out? If I went with new leaf springs, how much lift should I gain from them? Should I go with a beefier spring? If I were to go with coil-over shocks, would that lift the rear up enough to eliminate the rubbing? I really don't want to roll the lips. I would much rather go with the leaf springs than coil-over shocks because of the shocks being replaced recently.

I went to the mother-in-laws this past week for Thanksgiving and while on the interstate, some of the bridges had terrible joints going onto and coming off them. The rear tires would bottom out and rub the fender wells. I have 255x15x60R on the rear. What is the simplest way to remedy this? New leaf springs with an extra leaf or two? Re-roll the current springs? I do not want to put those damn ugly shackel things on. If I were to get new springs, does anyone have any suggestions? This is my daily driver but I will garage her when the snow is on the ground. I have not had this issue before while driving it around the area I live. And no I was not loaded down with a lot of weight. BTW, I got a lot of horn honks, waves and thumbs ups ... kinda felt like I was in a parade LOL. This pic is a little old, but it shows the stance with the new wheels and tires.

That looks like th kit I got. The wife bought it for me for my birthday, so I didn't know where she got it. Easy to install and works great ... well from what I have been told :blink:

Um ... OUCH ... just feeling what that cylinder was feeling

Hit the "Apply Now" button http://home.roadrunner.com/~pjrpole/ACA.html :taz:

Go with the sequential tail and hood lights. Not sure how much was spent on the tail lights, as they were a birthday present, but the hood sequentials were about 40 bucks. Got mine from CJPP (Scott Drake) and it was a very nice and simple kit.

Correct, you won't need another flasher. As far as the LED's being too bright .... I do not think that will be an issue with an amber bulb. In the daytime, you cant really notice a difference but at night there is a definate difference and you will love them. Yes, they are pricey, but you should get 50k hours from them vs. 1500-1800 hours of life.