Flanders

thanks! I'll be comparing that to mine soon :)

can someone post a good pick of the mechanism, in the car? When I put mine back together, I'm pretty sure I didn't get the return spring in the right spot. My release works, but not very well!

Adding a few more pictures... 351W: tried to keep it simple and clean. I like a little chrome ;) Interior: This turned out really well: my rear parcel shelf was warped pretty badly (water damage from leaky rear window) and stained. Rather than buy a new one, I got some 3M trim spray glue and a bit of black vinyl. I cut a couple holes out for speakers (not too concerned with cutting holes in the metal base) and presto! Once everything was tightened down, it looks great. yep, just need to get rid of the red floor mats :)

Arg. My rad cap blew, and made a nice mess of things on my clean engine and bay. The engine wasn't even warmed up, leading me to believe the seal on the cap is gone. It's a 14lb cap. This might be a naive question but is there anything special about a rad cap for a '69 ford radiator? The end-tanks on the rad are original, but it's been re-cored. Can I grab a cap off the shelf from somewhere?

Hopefully this helps (zip through to the '69 part) http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0312_ford_mustang_ignition_switch_replacement/ I did mine a little while back, and it was pretty straight forward! Good luck!

*cough* how about some 351W shots? :D

yep, it's a chrome molding: http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/302996/300403# http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/302995/300403 When I got the car, it came with chrome trim that goes around the wheel wells too, but that's just a bit too much chrome for me ;) Thanks for the comments guys!!

Finally got a couple of pictures in the sun. I'll get some glamour engine bay shots done next! :)

Thanks for the tip, danno! I was out of town all weekend, but will be getting back to this soon. I'll check that first!

you could be on to something. I 'pushed' in all the fuses (didn't pull them out first) and followed this up by playing hard with my turn signal stalk, and PRESTO things started working again. Not sure which one fixed things, but I'm betting the fuse panel. So, looks like I'll dig into my fuse panel some more! Thanks all

yep, I'm in the same boat :) stuck at work with restricted internet access and no manuals!

On the weekend when I took the car out, I don't recall having this problem. Plus, it was safety checked a few weeks ago so I know at one point everything was working. Today, I got honked at a few times (from behind) and once I got to my destination I checked and saw I have no turn signals or brake lights. Radio doesn't have power, and I can't turn my headlights on (I think the interio courtesy lights still work, I'll double-check later). At first glance with a flashlight, all the fuses look to be in-tact. Should I pull them all to check again, or is there something else obvious that ties all these systems together?? Otherwise, car starts and runs just fine but I figure I should attempt to fix this safety issue before I drive home today :)

I've been subscribing to Mustang Monthly since I got my '69, about a year ago. Still lots of articles on older mustangs!

I tend to agree. Unless there's a good reason to replace it (ie. it's not working, or it's binding or loose) then I'd leave it alone :)

wow that's a nice set up!

good to know :thumbup1: this will be a decision for next year, as my budget has already been torn to shreds this year :)

Thanks for the tips guys. Looks like I'll pick up a set of the KYB GR2's and be done with it! If it's sagging in the rear after the swap, I'll see about the leaf springs (I need to dig through a pile of P.O. mechanic invoices to see if they were replaced somewhat recently).

Powershift: Good question -- these were installed by a previous owner, and by the looks of things, quite some time ago! The leaf springs don't look like they're sagging, but my untrained eye could be wrong. With zero pressure in the shocks, the ride height looks just fine so I don't think the leafs are completely shot. I've seen a link on here before, but what's the stock height supposed to be in the rear? Otherwise, how can one tell if the leafs are worn?

My rear Monroe Max-Air shock absorbers are looking very worn (rubber bushings very dry/brittle) and by the looks of things have had 0 air pressure in them for quite some time. Unless there's a trick to get air into them, I'd say they're shot. (air pressure gauge shows 0, and compressor and hand pump are unable to pressurize them). What's recommended for the rear, for a casual driver? Not heading to the track anytime soon, as the car is just for cruising around. Should I pick up another set of these Monroe Max-Air shocks? I've seen a few posts here with these gas-a-just shocks: http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1513398/466754 And a few more posts recommending kyb GR2's. http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/1513499/466754 The GR2's are pretty cheap, but I don't want to have to buy another set in a few years because the ride height and/or dampening sucks. Recommendations?

looking good! That center console is nice!

Is the rear main seal installed backwards? They have a lip, and needs to be installed the right way. If it's backwards, it's gonna leak!

could also be leaking from the back of the valve covers. My bolts (near the firewall) were only hand tight, and I had the same symptoms. Oil dripping down the rear...I thought it was the rear main seal, so I was happy it was just tightening down these bolts!

Mach1Rider's looks just like mine! :)

hopefully someone can post a pic sooner, but if not, I can snap a pic of mine once it's back from the garage (early next week). 4 spd toploader with Hurst.

Sorry folks for the misunderstanding. I need to get my terminology correct! My car is at the garage at the moment (front end work and safety inspection before I can get it plated) so I'm not sure what drainage holes and moisture shields you're referring to. Do you have a pic?