Lemon Owner

Hot wiring causes resistence, one of the first rules of electrics. Combine that with a bad earth and heavy current draw equals no cranking. I have this same issue and beyond a shadow of a doubt it is my cables failing. The problem is finding where it is.

Just get a rust repair panel from any mustang shop and fix it like fordrevhead said. Be sure you treat then seal the surface rust on the inner brace and it will last for the next 20 odd years. It's easy, just make sure to measure twice and cut once. And before you weld it up test fit it to the car.

X 2 easy on the flat blade screw driver.

Thanks for the advice. CJ's have got back to me with a price with shipping to Australia ($206 ouch) for dougs. Just waiting for FPA to get back to me and I will see who comes up with the better price/value. I need to bite the bullet, I'm sick of the little leaks at the heads and collectors.

Please say it aint so! Fortunately you do not need to convert cars older than 30 years here in Oz. Both my stangs are still left hook and I love it, part of the fun. Can create problems when entering the motor way or turning left hand sweepers but no big deal.

The guys at Mustang Auto Parts here in Brisbane have full pans for $720 + $80 roughly to ship. Maybe with a little sweet talking you could be able to get a better price (they generally look after me but I am a regular), however they currently have none in stock with the container 2 - 3 months away. But that may suit you as you still have plenty to keep you busy. Just a thought.

I know this has been done to death but I really need some advice as to the suitability of a set of headers for my specific application. Because I am in Australia there will be no returns so I kinda need to get it right first time. My mach1 is a stock matching #'s 351W with FMX, power steering and power brakes. It is 4V with a mild cam but no head work. The near new exhaust system is a high flow 2 1/4 inch. I want a set of Quality headers in a tri Y design that will not need any modification with a BFH or otherwise. I have my heart set on Doug's D669Y Tri Y ceramic coated but I am unsure of fitment. I believe I will need the power steering ram relocation bracket for these but nothing else. Anyone used these or have other suggestions?

Bit of a shame they messed it up so much. I don't know how to help with that, far beyond my experience.

Nice ride indeed. Looks very slick and sounds good too. If you find the right rego guy you should be ok. But you can do what I did and stuck some fibreglass and chicken wire up the exhaust tips to quieten it down for rego. Then pull them out when I was done. :whistling:

Nice work finding that odd ball, well done.

I am not sure about US boss clevelands but here in Oz the easiest way to tell was a little 4 cast onto the front corner of both of the heads. You can see it with the engine complete.

I absolutely love having a stally, a whole lot of fun. Not quite as good as having a manual but still very cool. I love stalling it up enough to let the ass hang out off the line and letting the brake go and doing a fishy up the road. Almost like having a clutch without having a clutch!

Fantastic news, wish it had of fixed my problem. Did it allow you to put your timing back to a more normal 10 or so degrees?

Yea it looks like your so close and yet so far. My wife likes to call it Chinese workplace health and safety. She comes out and sees some of the stupid crap I do and shakes her head. But if she saw me doing what you are doing she would probably never let me work on the car again!

Looking good, although it is freaking me out and I'm not even there. She must be close to rolling over now. Nice set of pipes too. :thumbup:

I bought a set of those, fitted them and sold them off the next day. The E brake just skimmed over the pod with no speaker fitted. When the carpet is fitted it makes it worse. Hard to get at the E brake and had to use the side of my foot to depress it, waste of money for my application.

Well you need to sort that out first. Set your mixture screws at 1.5 turns out and wind up your idle screw until you can get the engine to run without pumping the throttle. If it is screaming its head off to do that then you will probably have a vacuum leak. But there could be so many things wrong it will boggle your mind. You need someone there with experience.

Can you get it to idle when it is not in gear or drive? If no then do not worry about getting it to idle in gear. Get it to idle not in gear so you can set you dwell angle, timing and mixture screw settings first. THEN you can worry about getting it to idle in drive. If you don't have a tach don't worry. You can set the idle in gear by feel. If it sounds like it is idling high out of gear and it gives you whiplash when you put it in gear, it's probably too high. If you put it in gear and it stalls then it's probably too low. I am sure you have driven an automatic before and should have a reasonable idea how it should sound and feel. No need to make it harder than it is.

If the rubbers are getting worn out it will not help matters. If there is movement in the shackles they will not allow the shockies to do their job which is to control the rate with which the springs react to the road surface. However new springs would be a better option for you as they are so cheap over there in the USA. And the new springs will probably be a better match for your new shockies. But just don't expect miracles, both my mach1 and coupe do the same as your car on rough surfaces and all their suspension components have been replaced. As I said earlier they are just not very good cars, but we still love them. :biggrin:

I am in Australia and after trying a few places I have found that Laurel Mountain Mustang has the best freight prices by far. One thing you must make sure of is that they are sending you the ford tooling or better quality repos. I have bought a couple of things, namely the pillar posts, and they sent me the crap ones. They said they had better ones not listed on their website for $10 more. Could have told me that BEFORE they shippped me the crap. Anyway got the better ones in the end and they are WAY better. If you plan on buying the dash pad, pay the extra $80 for the ford tooling repo, the generic one sucks big time. Anyway hope that helps.

So I take it you have replaced the shackle and eye bushes?

It may be the float level is now too low and it is starving for fuel up high or the opposite and float level is too high and flooding the engine.

I don't thing he means the rear axle is tramping, just the lousy ride we have come to expect from our mustangs. I think it is probably the low quality shocks (Edelbrock is low end compared to the big names) combined with worn shackles and a poor suspension setup from Ford.

Checked out the discs and they are Josco brand "brumby". But they did not state the grade but I suspect it is around 60 grit. So even though they are not 36 they still ripped my paint off pretty quickly. Unfortunately there is no "easy" way to strip paint but as I said I have tried them all and this was by far and away the best.

Thank god, I thought that thing was never going to start!