Lemon Owner

So the Dougs have been fitted and I have to say they are great. They fit well without the use of the steering drop and look pretty sweet too. They clear the shock towers and steering box by about a quarter inch although they did have to jack the engine to fit them. Being ceramic coated they do actually bring down under hood temperatures which surprised me. Power is up slightly throughout the rev range compared to the cheap midlengths I had previously. The engine runs slightly smoother off idle now but that is mainly because there are no longer any gasket leaks. All in all I am very pleased and while it cost around $1000 for the headers, freight to Australia and fitment I feel it was money well spent. It will be a few months before I can truely guage their quality but I am so far impressed. :clap:

There is a small chance the starter getting hot but I can almost guarantee it will be cable issues. Another member here had the same problem and it was his cables. I have the same problem and it was my cables. I have had this problem before on other vehicles and again it was cables. Make sure all the battery leads are tight and where they ground to the engine and sarter etc. is clean and tight. Backing off the timing will help a little but it just hides the real problem.

These dougs are the tri Y's in the midlength. They are somewhere between a shorty and a full length. The car is currently fitted with midlengths and there are no clearance issues. But they are such poor quality in the heads and flanges that I can't get them to seal well. The car is booked in Friday morning and I have purchased a steering drop just in case. So with a bit of luck it will be ok.

Is it cranking when it is hot or will it crank but not start? If it has a hard time cranking over when hot and you timing is only 14degrees then it will 95% likely be a bad earth/cable. So make sure all you starter/earth cables are in good condition and grounded properly.

The Dougs arrived today and I am very pleased with the quality. I really don't feel like laying under the car and being covered with sparks from the welder so I will take it to a specialist to get them fitted. I will let you know how they go. As you said Linden they are midlength so they shouldn't need the power steering drop. Although when I asked CJ's about fitment they said they probably would.

I did the same as mike, pretty easy just needed 3 hands.

As a matter of interest, does your stroker make as much torque from idle as a factory 351 4v? I would have thought yes but not having had one I don't know for sure.

When you bleed the brakes does anything fluid or otherwise come out? If not it is most probably you have not primed the master cylinder properly. I have had to bench bleed a master cylinder for an hour before the bastard would build up pressure.

I would start getting those floors back in before you start worrying about the rest of the car. If you start seeing how bad things really are you might just find something more interesting to do. Rome wasn't built in a day but if they new from the start how much work it was going to be they might just not have bothered.

Hmmmm brown star sounds too much like a chocolate starfish to me! I'll pass thanks.

By the look of it in the part that has the most rain and exposure. Good luck Sith Lord, you will need all of your powers to fix this one. But there is plenty of help and inspiration here if you need it!

That is going to be one sweet ride. I know it's not running properly but it is going to sound just as good as it looks!

Looks like the only tool you didn't find is the one who put that floor in!!:001_tt2:

If your idle screws don't make much difference it usually means you have a blockage in the idle circuit. You can remove the screws and gently blow a little compressed air into the holes. Alternatively squirt some carb cleaner into the mixture screw holes and it may dislodge something. Wouldn't hurt to spray some around the venturi, particularly the air bleeds. If that doesn't work you may have to pull the carb and give it a good clean. As Linden said you probably have a few carb issues.

Yea but it comes at a cost. The lighter spring over standard is needed to allow the timing to advance quicker with the upgraded engine specs. So by changing to a heavier spring it will cost me some in acceleration, but hey I still got my stally!

Thankfully it was an easy solution. I wish all my problems were that easy!

Doing well, you're not mucking around with it!

Damn that trailer is as good as the car. Well almost. Still love that colour.

That car is awesome, leave the interior as is, looks fantastic!

As a matter of interest I had a little win with my engines timing. I have managed to put a heavier spring on my distributor mechanical advance which has settle down my timing bounce at idle. This has allowed me to back my timing off about 20 degrees so it is closer to a more normal range.

To be honest all fords are like that. Both my early mustangs and late falcons are like that. But if you plant your foot a little harder it will tend to hold out a little more.

Sorry I thought they were still making patch panels.

Moot point now but I have always like the carter AFB (Edelbrock) for tuneability. I like the stepped needles and various springs for being able to fine tune the primary fuel circuit. You just don't get that ability with holleys. The second thing I like is that to change the jets you don't have to leak raw fuel onto a hot engine. It may have more screws to do it but much safer IMO.

Looks like they made a dogs breakfast of it. Going to be a bitch but I think maybe a whole new pan is the way to go. I think you will want to make the underside look pretty and with what they have done it will be hard to do that. Good that you have a time frame to finish it. It will definately go along way to making sure you don't loose interest. Good luck and keep on keeping on. Every hour you spend on it is another hour closer to driving it.

A little strange looking but that 69 boss 302 looked pretty good. Combine that with prices around 30K over base not bad either. Especially when you think to convert late model mustangs to Right Hand Drive over here costs $33K +. They damn near re-engineer the whole car for the same money!