TexasEd

I thought there had to be something. Mine is missing it. Anyone found a suitable replacement? I might try the plumbing aisle at the hardware store.

I have the 302-2V screw-on style Oil filler & Breather cap. I just repainted my original valve covers and oil filler/breather cap that are not currently on the car. While fitting the cap on the valve cover I realized how poorly they fit together. It was that way 20+ years ago when they were still on the car but something made me wonder if there was supposed to be a rubber grommet or washer between the filler cap and the valve cover. As it is now the breather cap just wobbles when screwed on. I had to adjust the grabbers that screw in to even make contact with the inside of the valve cover's screw ramps and it helps a little but not much. I have not seen any pictures of the bottom of the cap with a washer or anything that shows a grommet on the filler side of the valve covers.

Are the lines between the pump and control valve supposed to run above or below the gas line between the inner fender and fuel pump?

I'll probably unscrew mine and put them in a box.

I like the chair in the trunk. :) Read this: http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

Decided not to get greasy last night so I worked on part restoration. I'm really happy with how the oil filler cap came out. I used Rustoleum 'Covers Rust' Semi Gloss that I'll also use for the engine bay. I had some over spray on the air cleaner lid from doing the edges last so I'll give it another coat tonight.

Here are the pictures. 1) Driver side mounting location 2) Passenger side mounting 3) bullet connector on driver's side with two wires going in The power supply wire seems to merge in with the large harness that goes into the fuse block. Look around to see if your old wiring is already there.

The driver's side goes right above the parking brake release and is held with a small hex head sheet metal screw. I'll add a picture in the morning. The passenger goes above the fresh air vent. The connectors on yours are original. The wire from the passenger side runs over to the driver side where it is crimped in the female side of that connector with the power supply wire. Both wires are black with a blue stripe.

Thanks, I'll just remove it all and put it in a bucket. The Chockostang rebuild kit should be here in a few days.

I guess I wouldn't have any steering and I do need to steer it just a little when going in and out.

70mstang, Thanks for the encouragement. I like getting my hands dirty, just not the 15 minutes it takes to wash them when they have hydrolic fluid on them. :) I just called Chockostang and ordered the rebuild kit and hoses. The cylinder hoses are included in the rebuild kit so it was less than $220 with shipping. What nice people they are over there. Cross your fingers for me that I don't have a problem with my steering box since I don't plan to rebuild it. I'll just fill with grease and set the retaining screw on it.

I have those rubber bumpers only on one fender because the other is a NOS part installed after a wreck. The bumpers are available from CJ Pony as a kit with the front adjustable hood rests.

They are one wire; I was looking at mine last week. I ordered new bulbs from CJ Pony because the driver's is broken with the base still in the socket. I would assume they are hooked to the same circuit as the rear interior courtesy lights as they all come on when the doors are opened. Connect the black wire you have there to the correct spot on the fuse box.

I'm getting to the point I want to roll the my car back out of the garage to pressure wash the power steering caked goop off of everything I've exposed by removing the P.S. pump and AC compressor. I'm thinking of removing the power ram, control valve and all the P.S. hoses too. I want to inspect the valve and ram to see if they can be rebuilt. Can I roll the car in and out of the garage like that or will it tear up the rest of the steering components?

I pulled off the driver side front wheel and got under the car to inspect the rest of the power steering stuff. There is another leak from the power ram control line fittings and I'm missing the arched part of the hose support bracket with the rubber insulator. The top part of the bracket is there but bent in a funny way. I'm thinking of getting a chockostang rebuild kit for everything and all new hoses. That option would run about $220 plus shipping and I get to take stuff apart. Getting the alternator seems to be practically impossible in my car. The long bolt that goes through the spacer is rusted into the front sleeve of the alternator and I don't want to hammer it out because I could damage the radiator. I started trying to get the bracket completely off so that it would all come out together but the bolts are too far behind the water pump pulley. Looks like I need to rent a pulley puller and get that water pump pulley off. I think I diagnosed my coolant leak to the thermostat housing. I'll have to replace the thermostat (180*, right?) and put a new gasket on it. If you look around the mating surface you can see a ton of excess black RTV seeping out from the seam. I read you have to check the housing for being true and possibly do some light sanding to remove any warping. I am nervous about the water pump leaking too. I have an original cast iron housing with the C8 casting code and RH inlet. Should I just go ahead and replace it? I suspect that it could just be the gasket is leaking, the pulley does not have a lot of side to side play.

Thanks! Much cleaner than it was wired when I got it, no cutting my wiring harness and no ugly resistor on my engine bay brace.

I have been cleaning up the engine bay getting ready to sand off the rust and paint it. On the passenger side I removed the starter solenoid and the voltage regulator then pulled the wiring harnesses trough the radiator support to the area above the valance to get it out of the way. On the driver side I removed the washer fluid reservoir. I found a small rust hole behind the reservoir. Since I plan on working in the engine bay for a while I decided to remove the grill and put it on a shelf for safe keeping. I sacrificed the plastic retaining pieces. I don't know if there is a good way to get them out so you can re-use them, but at the time I couldn't figure it out and they must be readily available. My grill is not painted but I'll look into the correct color and paint it before I reinstall. Then I started on the messy job of getting the AC compressor out of the way and the Power Steering pump off. The majority of my PS fluid leaks are obviously coming from the pump. The brackets are interesting because these two parts kind of have a nested bracket system and share some of the same mounting points. One of the bolts goes into the water pump and as soon as I removed that one the water pump's leak got worse. I had to remove the Monte Carlo bar to make room to move the compressor out of the way without disconnecting the lines. After I got them out the amount of caked on PS fluid really jumped out at me. I'll have to put the car back on the ground and push it to the driveway to pressure wash it off. I need to take a picture of the original power steering pump in the sun since there seems to be so much discussion about what color they are supposed to be. In my garage it seems to be a metallic robin's egg color. In the last picture you can see how much caked on PS fluid is everywhere. You can also see that my balancer is all rust colored and I'll have to clean that up as well.

Alex, I'm sorry. I was not suggesting an option but more piggybacking my own question. Ed

What about under the hood for an electric choke? Is there a spot on the voltage regulator?

Yeah, your intake is the same as mine.

I was reading the other day about how Ford offered power upgrades to the 302 2v which included a 351W heads and a different cam, intake and carb. If you're interested in stock to period correct you might want to look into that.

I had two used parts dealers contact me on another forum. It they are so far shipping practically doubles their prices. I heard there is a mustang salvage yard in Waco, Tx I might look into.

To me this is the best angle. There is something sexy about the rear quarter of a 69 sportsroof.

Jackpot! I told my brother about it and he thinks he has the original one in his garage.

The more I look at it I think the bulb you might want to save is inside the housing with the hole. If you can pull it out and that one would reach to the shifter it looks like it might be the original because the bulb base has the ring around it like mine.