Powershift

I have 255/40/17 fronts (8" wide wheel), with 285/40/17 (9" wide wheel) rear. I didn't want to go much wider in the front as I was afraid with the ride height I wanted I would have serious rub issues. I can't imagine stuffing a 285 front tire on! And, my front wheels already have a 4.5" backspace. LOL

I didn't see it mentioned, but what degree T-stat are you running? Maybe try a 180 to lower the temps a bit, if that isn' what you are already using now.

I think this is the SPAL fan I used. It moved like 2400 cfms of air, and was really quiet. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102042 I just had it wired to a switch in the car. I never used it out on the highway, only in town.

VERY cool!

Maybe just ditch the old school fan, and switch to an electric fan. I ran a SPAL slim electric fan on my '65 Stang. It moved a TON of air, and was really quiet. Just an idea.

I vote Trans swap, all the way. Going from a 4 speed to 5 will VASTLY improve driving the car out of town. I love 4 speeds, but there is NO comparison from doing 3,000 rpms at 60mph, to doing less than 2,000. I had a '65 Mustang with a Top Loader, and swapped out to a 5 speed. The FIRST time I drove the car with the new trans I swore I would never again keep a 4 speed. My '70 Mach will be getting a 5 speed swap, from it's current Top Loader, soon. Also, I advise KEEPING the Z-bar. You can get a kit (from Modern Driveline) to make it work with the TK0600... and your 4 speed bell housing. In my '65 I did a clutch cable, and the pedal feel was not great. A buddy did a 5 speed swap in his '69, and did the Z-bar modification. The pedal effort felt the same as stock. Also, most cable set ups won't clear headers very well.

HA HA! Yea, I mentioned that when we got to the meet site.

I saw this car on a trailer down in LA about a year ago. It really looked good in person. I was driving down the 101 freeway, and pulled up along side the truck and trailer. I nearly crashed while drooling and driving. LOL The BOSS 408 decals on the side are very cool.

He said his car was originally 2 barrel 351W, with the Shaker. But, when he restored the car he got a 4 barrel intake and carb, along with a few other engine modifications. I would guess a 2 barrel Shaker car is somewhat rare. But, I would have done a 4 barrel conversion too!

I can see that being true. On my Mach though, the springs were only about 10 years old (new at the time of resto). So, I doubt they had sagged too much. Either way, it's an easy fix via chop saw/cut off wheel/etc. HA HA! I linked up with another '70 Mustang this morning, and we headed to our regular Saturday morning car meet. This coupe was bought new buy the guy's Dad. It's a Pastel Blue, 351w, 4 barrel, Shaker, FMX, with a 3.00 geared 8". He told me when his Dad ordered the car he told the salesman "I want a hood scoop too". The salesman said "Oh, I know just what you want." When the car arrived it had a Shaker, and the Dad said "Not what I meant, but I'll take it." Ha ha! His 351w is healthy too, with only a couple hundred miles on it since install...

I'm sure Unique Performance could walk someone through the process. Oooh wait.... HA HA! Title washing, what?? It does seem sad to see a cool Stang rotting away. =(

Ha ha! Yea, I measured mine after installing the springs the fist time. It dropped a measly 1/8". I pulled the springs back out (like I knew I would), and used a straight edge from the coil spring end to measure directly across a half coil, marked it, and cut off the half coil. The results are what you see, a true 1" drop. BTW Steering wheel is sold. =)

Just sent you a PM.

Did another little project on the Mach yesterday. I swapped out the Rim Blow steering wheel for a Le Carra/Moto-Lita wheel. I'm not 100% sold on the polished horn button though. I may swap it out for a black one later. BTW I'm selling the Rim Blow wheel, if anyone is interested. Before... After... I think it gave the interior more of a race look...

The bottom is the only part you can cut off. It's an open coil on the bottom, and a totally round top (to fit flat into the top of the shock tower). The bottom spring seat has a metal ear at the end, and the end of the coil spring butts up to it. Meaning you simply rotate the coil around after making your cut so that the end of the coil hits the stop. I removed about half a coil on mine, and as you can see it has a nice bit of a rake. I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel. Seems to be "false" advertising saying the 620 springs lower the car an inch. THEY NEVER DO! I did them on my '65 Mustang, a '69 Mustang, a buddy's '66 Shelby, and now my Mach 1. ALL of them had to be cut a bit to actually get a drop! HA HA!

You can also do a standard 3 wire tach conversion. My buddy, Miles Cook, did it to his '69.... http://business.highbeam.com/435580/article-1G1-140145713/install-6970-tachometer-gauge-cluster-redline-gauge "Thanks to Mustang Country, here's what we know: Redline's three-wire tach conversion means it's no longer necessary to replace a car's entire underdash, non-tach wiring harness with a tach version. A car's existing non-tach harness can be altered to work with a tach cluster, since the tachometer itself is wired separately and is no longer connected through a factory Ford harness. Wire cutting is also not required: The existing harness's main plug is simply repinned according to a factory Ford wiring schematic that's available from most Mustang parts houses. In addition to the speedometer (with its cable) and tach working on their own, relocating the wires in the cluster's main connector means all the secondary items in the cluster will work properly, including the high-beam indicator, the turn signals, the fuel gauge, and the in-dash lights for nighttime illumination."

Thanks! I took the car to it's first meet today, and got a TON of great comments. It seems most everyone wants me to keep the rear Mach 1 stuff. So, I'll leave it while I do other things I have planned, and wait and see how I feel about it later. Scary how much the stance changes the looks/attitude of the car! Before... After...

New 620 springs installed, with a half coil cut off.....

When the engine is COLD, remove the radiator cap. Start the car, and let it reach operating temp with the cap off. Monitor the level of the radiator, and watch for the level to change as the thermostat opens and closes. This should purge the air from the system. When the system will no longer take water/coolant, put the cap back on.

Glare or not... that is a VERY clean look! :punk: I'm hoping that when/if I go to remove the Mach 1 tape stripes from the rear of my car.. the paint stays ON the car. The paint on my car is very high quality. My buddy, who used to own a body shop, is coming into town this weekend. He said he has some tricks for removing them, and I'm guessing it's with a heat gun. But, I'll wait and see if he feels comfortable doing the job. If it's an "iffy" situation... they will stay!

Yep! The rear wheels are 17X9, with a 5.5 backspace. Nitto 555 are really easy to find in the 285 size. I got them from Discount Tire. Oddly enough though, the Nitto tires didn't appear on their web site in that size. I called my local Discount Tire store, and they had them within 24 hours. Onlinetires.com is another great source... http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/nitto/285%252F40-17+nitto+nt555+95w+bw.html

Great looking car! Have a shot with the trunk lid closed?

Thanks!! I'm actually debating pulling off the MACH 1 lettering and tape stripe, to black out the trunk lid like the Boss & Trans Am cars too.

Great build. Just read through it. NICE work!!

Hey! I found you! HA HA! After seeing you on IMBOC, I had to track you down here. I'm "Green Bullitt" over there.