dzahm

Anyone know how the 69 grill installs? I am using my original headlight buckets (no damage, no repairs) and my NOS grill. Problem is I got NPD mounting kit- which has funny plastic rivets (has a pin on top that you push that flares the lower end)- I can install 1 or 2 but they wont stay in as the hole is too big. (the hole is the same as the others and doesn't appear to have ever been modified). The other rivets will fit the hole but the pin won't push in so I am not sure if the rivets are for after market grills/buckets or if everyone just uses black bolts instead. (the areas I am referring to are 1 slot(or hole) on top of each high beam and another slot below and to the inside of each high beam) Anybody?

Hmm I just did this and it was an incredible PIA. I am not sure if mine is right- but I was able to get the spring end in the SS trim hole and with the funny end it has it lined up with the bucket hole so it is actually holding both parts. It seems pretty tight that way- anyone have a picture of the correct way?

Old gas prob won't hurt- but it probably won't start. If the carb isn't clogged- it might be once you spin it over. Long way- drain tank, lines, replace filter etc. Short way- disconnect fuel line at carb, rig up a small bottle, or lawn mower gas tank with fresh gas to carb fuel inlet (make sure this is higher than the carb as you are using gravity to "feed" the carb. BTW 5 yr old gas is great for putting on weeds- Oh wait I didn't say that

VAmustang was parting out a 70 coupe recently You might shoot him a email- He's good to work with and has a ton of parts-

VAmustang was parting out a 70 coupe recently You might shoot him a email- He's good to work with and has a ton of parts-

I understood the factory drum spindle used the 4 piston KH caliper (which I read is prone to sticking) and I think the granada spindle limits use of wheels to 15 and may cause bump steer. So I went with the 70 mustang disc spindle (so I use a single piston caliper), and I am happy- FWIW chockostang helped me with information and guidance- so he might be able to further direct you-

I understood the factory drum spindle used the 4 piston KH caliper (which I read is prone to sticking) and I think the granada spindle limits use of wheels to 15 and may cause bump steer. So I went with the 70 mustang disc spindle (so I use a single piston caliper), and I am happy- FWIW chockostang helped me with information and guidance- so he might be able to further direct you-

wait- mine is a vert so.............YMMV

I believe on the lid in the opposite the hinge side near the corner

I am reassembling the cowl on the 69 vert. I know the windsheild (lower) goes on first, is there weatherstripping that keeps it from rattling on the windsheild? I am using the 7 special clips, and the foam blocks but it seems like it would rattle. Also how does the hood to cowl seal attach? It has no clips, does it glue on or pinch between the cowl panel and upper cowl cover? Anyone got a scan of the assembly manual? David

Thanks to everyone- I located one this morning from Vamustang. Hopefully it will be here in the morning- 2 more days till paint- yippee.

OK so we have a paint booth rented for this weekend, and we sprayed the trunk area last night. But I just realized I am missing the passenger c scoop. NPD doesn't have it and local sources don't either. I need one so I can paint it with the car, and I have 3 days left. Anyone got a decent one? I don't need the chrome 3 finger thingy, I have that. I just need the pot metal scoop and the black sheetmetal insert. I will gladly buy this I just need it in my hands by Friday. I am in NC. Anyone???

Well, everyone has their own taste.....and I hate to knock what obviously took a lot of money and time...... That is Not the car for me. I guess he likes yellow.

Found a new source for used, but original ford parts. Chris Stage (goes by VAmustang on VMF) has a ton of parts- Wife and I went up Saturday- got bolt in glass, disc brake conversion, and a few other parts. It was well worth the drive. He described the parts well before driving up, and prices were good. Sorry for dropping a reference to another site but thought this would benefit all (I have no financial ties to disclose) David

Hmm, now a 69 front clip (sheetmetal) might be ok on a 90 stang. At least better than the other way. Wait then a 69 would have to lose its clip for........... Ok No I can't see it. Nothing against a 90 though. I kinda like em the way Ford made em. If you make it please post a pic though

I am repainting the metal upper dash (vin area) with the windsheild out. How far does the black go- into the windsheild channel or stopping at the front of the vin? Also is the windsheild frame itself black or body color? My car is a metuchen convertible built sept 68.

a ground is a ground- it shouldn't matter where you ground to (unless slipping in around another wire thought to be a ground but is actually hot) You should be able to find the other end- can you get a small mirror back behind the head/intake area? It takes practice to really be adept at this but you can see into some impossible locations. Oh be sure if you decide to ground to a new location that the new place is metal (some newer cars have plastic intake manifolds, and other crap you wouldn't think is plastic)

I have used Nasons and it seemed ok, my first mustang was sprayed in 1989 with ppg- Before I sold it in 2000 I still got comments like "when did you paint this car" (as in it still looked that fresh) So I will prob go with ppg for the current stang

Hehe- fun Ford stuff- My stang has No VIN stampings on the inner fenders (before someone says they were replaced- the sheetmetal is all original, no cuts, fact spot welds etc. In fact there are date codes stamped there and they match the car and all the other dates) Crazy how we all have weird stuff with VINs; FWIW- I hope yours is a real Boss

Mikestang: I thought the glue in glass went in all 69s and some early 70's. Are you sure thats originalto your car? Also if the rest of the parts one the car match the heater core (12/68) that would be an early (or mid 69) since the models would have run like July 68 to I think June 69. Then switch over for 70- IIRC the show cars, and "special" cars for promotional stuff are July 4th date code, then the normal cars for that yr are built. I am not K Marti- so please enlighten me if I am wrong

Thats next on the list- I just epoxy primed the rear qtrs, and trunk area. Now to the cowl area- I wanna run down the leak- from what I can see the cowl looks mint- drain holes are nice- but the drivers pan was GONE. Oddly except for the battery tray there was NO other rust- I'll post what I find for leaks

Yep, only one- I thought someone had cut/rewelded mine but thankflly only one and its in good shape. So my water leak is elsewhere- maybe windsheild. Will post pics of the car soon. (when I figure out how to resize) David

http://www.1969stang.com/gallery/Jade69 Sorry, when I wrote the orig post it was the first one when you clicked on the gallery. Now its page 7, anyway I got the free report from ford and it was built 9/23 so 2 days before his; I think they were/are identical except for ext color. Almost all of mine is original so I thought we might compare details, etc

Btt

My car sat since 1983- I thought we had no spark- turns out the battery was weak, spark just looked weak. It was actually a gas problem. I could get it to "run" with a little gas in the carb. After flushing the tank, blowing out the gas lines and replaceing the sending unit she ran great. I did WD-40 the cylinders, I did not build oil pressure (since we tried starting it so much I figured we had pressure) and since it sat so long I was prepared for a rrebuild anyway. (BTW I removed the screen on the orig sending unit and the gas line inside was about 90% sludged up)