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Everything posted by dzahm

  1. I would use screws for alignment, and then cut (assuming you are 100% sure its correct), remove screws, old qtr, replace new qtr, and begin the tacking process. I would not weld it prior to cutting. (your old qtr is probably keeping the new one 1/8 in out so minor adj maybe needed before final weld- not enough that you can't cut, but you just may need to tweak it very slightly prior to final welding)
  2. I can concur with Latoracing- that is how I do it. By chance you are not using an extension cord? I have seen ext cords do funny shit with welders, (like a nice weld, followed by weird ones, or blowouts) especially 110v welders (I see yours is 220v-that should be less sensitive to voltage issues) But for the sake of being thorough- you might check your breaker and verify your connections are nice and tight (they can loosen over time and cause weird stuff to happen) Check the hot legs, and the ground, and any electrical connections between the breaker box, and the welder. One last thing- when you convert to gas- you typically go up one or two settings as the gas will cool the weld- so if it worked on A before the conversion I would expect at least B or C. Remember the 3 rules: clean, tight, hot
  3. Oh- I used straight pinesol (got a big bottle at the dollar store for maybe 2-3$)
  4. I can vouch for the pinesol method. Simple green won't come close to carb cleaning like pinesol . (simple green will work for about anything else- just not quite as clean as pinesol on old crusty carbs) I used a bucket with lid, about 24 hrs, with a few parts getting resoaked for another day or so. I never thought the carb would look so good
  5. Not sure about the combination of parts you have. But you might remove the starter and then try to roll the motor over by hand- that will tell you if its seized- it might be the starter is hung. As far as the flywheel- someone else should be along shortly that can answer that
  6. I got no pics as the car is at the F-I-L's for the winter. I would not replace the loom with a used loom, that may or may not be the right one. Ford was famous for having diff wiring for all kinds of stuff. Send it to Midlife (not sure if he's on this board) but you can find him on the Vintage Mustang Forum. He has a good reputation, and can restore your original loom. Heck he might even have a pic, and he usually has extra wire looms for speedy changeouts. I think he did a complete loom (tach) for a 69 I sold recently.
  7. Yeah, that sounds good. I spliced an outer w/h in, and had it lined up exactly the way it came off- or so I thought- I was sooo proud of the repair-you really couldn't see the job- but the qtr was hell after that-it was my body guy that told me the "better" way (wish he'd have mentioned that prior to welding it up)
  8. You know FWIW- you might wanna line up the qtr panel before you weld up the outer wheelhouse. It just strikes me (a non body guy- but someone who has been down this road b4) that you might temp install the qtr, then reach inside and position the outer wheelhouse, then mark, then weld it in. Maybe its just my coupe- but I been fighting wheelhouses for a while, even when I thought they were dead on they were not. YMMV
  9. If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail- you are not going to get it out. Sorry to say that- but I have used many products, talked to several glass places, and searched on many forums. THe consensus is it removes water spots, maybe a little haze, otherwise nada. Scratches, and the little "pits" you can see when you look through the glass (esp in sunlight) you are stuck with. I recall once using a high speed buffer, and cerium oxide- I spent over an hour on a side glass, I got it very hot- it didn't hurt it, but did damn near nothing at all. Just a waste of my time, and made a mess (just like buffing a car-that sh++ goes everywhere. Good luck, and I hope you can prove me wrong (please do- and post back if you find anything that works)
  10. I haven't tried powder for a dash but I do powder most everything else. It would be extremely durable, might be slightly off from factory color (though you could have custom powder made) You would need someone experienced in powder (cause you'd need just enough coverage to be complete, but not enough to fill the little textured areas.) I would guess for the size part (assuming you removed and brought it in stripped) maybe 75-150 depending on the area of the country you're in. I bet you'd never revisit the dash again since its so durable.
  11. I bet the blast out of a bucket is the problem. A good sandblaster would make short work of paint/rust- in fact (caution here) I would exercise great caution with a good blaster not to remove the texture on the dash. Any buddys near you with a pressure pot? What media are u using? Maybe the grit is too large and won't get in the cracks (but should eat the paint that it can get to instantly) I prefer blasting over about any other prep- but you could try stripper (aircraft) and a toothbrush, you could also try (another fav trick) laquar thinner and a red scotch brite pad (don't underestimate this- it will cut factory paint like nothing, and leave the metal like brand new) Then if you have rust left- just a momentary blast of sand should fix that.
  12. I don't have a pic but I like the 69 mach tips (quad slash cut) 70 is ovoid straight single tip x 2. I did see where you want bigger than stock- just wasnt sure if you were meaning turn downs, or the oem tips- so thought I would mention it. I also like the AAR style (but no idea what the real name is- its the diagonal ones that turn out in front of the rear tires) That'd look bad ass, esp if you went kinda track style with the car. Sorry I didn't have pics, but I figured if you had the idea- you could find a pic pretty quik
  13. Haha- my vert is a one of one- It was gold, black power top, w/glass window, and standard non deluxe clock. These options are not common, and the color not common, heres the funny part- what makes mine a one of one? Someone ordered extra skinny tires- (can't recall but maybe c 78 wide ovals) So you can work the numbers to say one of one- if you try hard enough- certainly there are some 1 of 1 that are killer- but sadly most are just weird/undesireable/icky. I can't figure out if the person ordering mine planned to change out the tires, or wanted to do some serious burnouts. Still it does make you feel a small amount better about the stang if its one of one
  14. Try chockostang, he is a long time brake specialist.He will know what you need.
  15. Be very carefull when you try to screw the retainer back into the switch. It is very easy to strip- (if you do- Kentucky Mustang has them)
  16. X 3- My body guy says don't remove- He said some of the companies will not warranty the part if that is removed (prob only applies to new car/collision work)not old mustangs. The exception to this is if its peeling/chipping. In all the parts I got- only one did that- it was a door skin and when bent around the door shell the edges began to lift. So we removed all loose areas, and sanded (feathering the edge) and then primed.
  17. I added SFC to a coupe- I was worried about this issue but moreover- what if I jack it up (flexing the body) then weld them in with a twist. So I left it on the ground, held the SFC in place witha jack and tacked it in pretty good via MIG, then jacked it up, and finished welding. As I went I continuously checked the body gaps, looking for any changes (there were none) Obviously in a vert- you reallly want to watch the flex. My vert is very solid, no wrecks, etc- when I jack it- it does flex (duh no big surprise) If the car is sagging- I would jack it until it is level plus a hair more, and then weld the sfc in (my thinking is that it would still sag a hair due to metal fatigue/being a vert with settling/weight of car) so adding 1 little extra "bow" might keep the gaps right over time. I think if you ensure the car is pretty straight- you can do the susp whenever you want (1st, last, whatever)
  18. Haha these are great. Google powder coating= see what you can do in the oven at home. (JK-of course)
  19. Maybe you could get some organization to build a ramp to the second floor. hehe (envisioning a plywood ramp at your house- like for seniors etc)
  20. I like the look- the red really wakes the room up. Now I need to dress up the garage more like a bedroom for the car- or figure out how to put a garage door in the guest room for the stang- (but I have 2- so how do I figure out if they need seperate rooms? or can share)
  21. I too would weld the ends of the valance- grind, then paint/install. I wouldn't weld to the qtrs- you might end up warping something, blowing a hole in a qtr, but also would make a later repair signficantly more difficult. Remember even new the gap was there (and sometimes nappy looking NEW)
  22. Public Service announcement: The 69 headlight switch retainer (the part you unscrew that holds the headlight switch) is now available- Some of you may recall these were unobtainium- I got my machinist buddy to make some- I referred him to a vendor who saw the thread- they now carry them. Kentucky Mustang has them available- I dont know the price- but there they are. Moderators: I am aware of the rule re: self advertisement. I gave this idea to the machinist. I get no $, not even a penny out of any of this. This is to help fellow 69 owners, and I hope my machinist friend can make a few bucks. Ironically I have a used retainer in my car (as I located a used one about 24 hrs before he made the first one) This was sent to a member here for testing,so I didnt even get one for me. (but I will prob have him make me a spare)
  23. I'd go- I never see 69 verts (though there are two 70 verts near me) Would need to be east coast (and if up north must be april to sept) as my car is rust free and I want to keep it that way. I don't wanna be judged (my car is essentially original with new paint/top) but orig interior, motor (even wearing orig engine paint) It looks slightly ratty (the orig stuff) to most- but mustangers seem to enjoy seeing what orig even looks (or looked) like. But judged? I'd get laughed out of the place- One thing though- for those of us lucky enough to have more than 1 stang- I would need to have the 65 within eyesight (I assume we would want the verts together) but no way leaving one unattended. So if we try to pull this off- I would want the ability to bring another mustang and have it close (but not necessarily within the vert group)
  24. I have a 69 vert- pure stock 2 bbl, not even rebuilt just a valve job- c4 and 2.79- I am 18-22 mpg driving interstate (around 75mph) I drive it easy as it is orig, and its a cruiser- I have no spoiler, can't really tell if theres a difference top up/top down- in terms of mpg (though its a vert- who cares if its worse with top down- it would be worth it if it cut mpg in 1/2 IMHO) That all said- something ain't right with yours- My F250 4x4 crew cab V10 gets 12 mpg- it weighs in around 6200 empty (so in terms of HP/engine displacement and weight) even realizing new technology helping the truck's mpg.........there still has to be something wrong
  25. Damn, mines not one of them- Oh well thats a great find and I applaud your efforts to find their homes. You know that actually might tell us quite a bit about build order (rather than vin order) I would assume the person finished these cars and cleaned off his clipboard by chucking them (then again who knows)
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