Rcodenewf

You mean the one sitting on my floor with the 4 holes...the support under the floor pan? If that is what you are referring to i got them through American Designers...aka SPI(Spectra Premium) out of Montreal, Quebec. ........John

Yes, i posted the link to the progress under "another 70 convert restoration" I'll post up to date pics as i go as i can only put 5 on with each entry. I just cut out that area of the framerail next to the torque box where the front floor support fits over it. Should be welding it before this weekend. I'm building a stroker engine for my sons 94 mustang (800-850rwhp) and i've promised we'd put it together before i get welding and grinding on this one. John

That's interesting on the inner torque box. The 67-68 is 75" in length and the 69-73 is 77" in length. I won't be able to cut this one down. I made the outer short piece at the front on my brake and with a hammer/dolly. I was pleased with the results. This 70 i'm doing for a friend. Car was originally that 'Freudian' gold colour with a tan interior. He liked the Acapulco blue on my fastback so much he's decided to go with it on this 70 along with a white top and white interior as most of it has to be replaced anyways. Yes, Sure nice to see the Canadian content as far as mustangs go. John

jerr_ man: You've done great work on that car man...look what you started with! You and i emailed each other quite some time ago and matter of fact i was just wondering how you were progressing on your convert. I'm full time into the restoration of that 70 convert and just like you, am uncovering more and more rust. Just ordered the rear torque boxes from the Mustang Shop in Calgary. They've been super to deal with. I note you used the same inner rockers as i have for this one. Did you cap the fronts off and weld a tab on them to mate up to the torque box as they don't come with that tab? I see you used that formed patch for the front portion of the outer rocker. I wasn't sure if that would fit the 69/70 as it shows 67-68 in the parts catalog. I'm going to have to replace one of the fenders on this one...did you use Goodmark fenders or Dynacorn? How was the fit and finish? Keep posting some final pics....and good luck! Regards......John

The outer front portion of the passenger side rocker panel showed signs of cancer so i cut out the offending piece well beyond the rust and fabricated a new one. Next i hope to tackle into the rust at the lower portion of the rt front frame rail where the front support slips over it and the lower torque box attaches. .........John

Thanks guys. I have just finished my 69 fastback and i think it turned out pretty good. I replaced the lower quarters, lower portions of the front fenders, drivers side toe extension, front frame support and battery apron. I did all the bodywork on the car except for paint. I did the engine, trans, diff, all interior etc. Now i've started a resto on this 70 convert. Question: The new inner rockers for this convert arrived and i note that they do not have any tabs at the ends to mate with the torque box etc. Has anyone ever come across this? I know that the 70-73 rockers are the same according to the book and are 77" in length compared to the 75" of the 65-68 rocker. Thanks guys...

Rangerdoc, I think that the colour of the car and the interior is awesome. You've done a terrific job....:thumbup:.........John

I've been debating whether or not to post the pics of my restoration of my friends 70 mustang convertible. Initially the car came to me to rebuild the 351C and the FMX. Upon removal of the engine the rust was discovered and as we started digging into it the rust issues were huge. The car was taken into a bodyshop where it sat for quite some time. With zero work done on the car the bodyshop decided that they did not want to tackle into it. So....the car came back to me. I've done quite a bit on this car so far so i'll provide the link to my photobucket albumn for anyone that wants to view it. I'll post fresh pics directly on the site as i progress. I believe i can post 5 at a time? Please bear with me as i haven't posted many pics before and i am not a body man. Here's the link: http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/rcodenewf/70%20convertible%20restoration/ The individual repair sections should be on the right hand side of the albumn. If anyone is having trouble viewing the albumn please let me know. Thanks for the space....John

I'll be watching for your post. Good luck...John

Greetings back at ya Juergen : What I found after installing the 670 avenger was this: While trying to set the idle mixture screws I noticed that i couldn't get a satisfactory idle with the screws 1 1/2 turns out and had to continue way out further. The greatest improvement occured when i closed off the choke nearly complete and the engine smoothened and picked up in Rpm. This indicated the carb circuit was lean and upon checking i confirmed i had no vacuum leak issues. I took the carb off and set the idle speed to show roughly the 'preferred' .020 of transition slot and eventually had to increase the idle feed restrictors to allow the mixture screws to be more sensitive and finally arrived at a 1 1/2 turn out adjustment. Then i 'tuned' each circuit of the carb with a wideband 02 ( Innovate Motorsports) There is no hard and fast rule that an engine should run at a certain A/F ratio. Camshaft design, compression, intake manifold, etc will dictate what fuel requirements the engine has. I can't say, and maybe nobody can, that the 670 will perform exactly the way you want it. In my opinion rarely do you find a carb that is an 'out of the box' bolt on. There are so many variables comprising an engines state of tune that each carb should theoretically be 'tuned ' to a given engine. Again, just my opinion. Bolting them on and just driving is certainly possible and probably should work...but if you are looking for performance and having that engine/carb combo work to its' maximum potential then some tuning will be required. Hope i haven't confused the issue.....regards...John

Hello. With that compression I would have up'd the cam to something a tad hotter with a duration @.050 of 220 or so. Nothing wrong with the 670 street avenger. Any that i've used have been fine right out the box as far as a 'plug and play' type of carb, but i've also discovered via using a wideband that they are definitely on the lean side. Therefore i've had to remove the iabs (idle air bleeds) , hsab (hi speed air bleeds) and definitely IFR's (idle feed restrictions) and drill/tap them to make them adjustable. This is certainly just my opinion....regards....John

The top one with the offset is for a 69...the 70 is straight. Just went through this..

Hey BC Stang: Their website is www.themustangshop.ca Call and ask for Matt Mitchell and tell him John from Manitoba sent ya. Been buying from them for years and they are certainly on top of their game. They also have a toll free number on their website Regards....John

Hey BC Stang: Just contact the mustang shop in Calgary and they will get the panels for you. Might even have them in stock. I buy my parts from them and have them shipped to me two provinces over....they are great to deal with...fast and the prices are quite reasonable. Regards...John

Black_69_FB: What i was referring to is the bracket attached to the tube that's bolted at the top portion of the door. With that tube on my bench i scribed a line on the tube and on the bracket itself. That way, when i cut the bracket off flush with the tube i had a reference line to ensure that the bracket was rewelded to the tube in the correct 'clocked' position. 69gmachine: Yes, i'll certainly take a few pics of the process as it shouldn't take me too long to correct that side now that i know what needs to be done. Should have some pics by tomorrow if all goes well. I'll update my post then. Thanks....john

Well...I think i have it aced. After changing every component inside the door i came to the conclusion that the top of the vertical runs are the issue. My problem was that when the window rolled up into it's correct position the glass was touching the inner skin of the door. Not allowing the inside window fuzzy to be put into place and certainly not allowing the window to rest correctly against the weatherstrip. Actually the glass touched the weatherstrip well before the door came in contact with the door striker. I solved the problem by removing the vertical rods. I scribed a witness line on the bracket edge and on the tube itself. I then cut the upper bracket off clean with a hacksaw and then lined up the witness marks but moved the tube outwards on the bracket roughly 1/4 inch. I tacked the tube at 12, 6, 9 and 3 o'clock just so i could verify the positioning. Upon bolting the tube back into the car i could easily see that it moved the glass outward away from the inner skin. A few small adjustments at the bottom. A few adjustments fore and aft and the glass fit perfectly against the new weatherstrip with the interior door fuzzies in place. Tomorrow i'll do the same thing with the passenger side . To add to this, having taken the 'guts' out of this door so many times, i rolled the window down to gain access to the upper tube bracket bolt. The lower bolt at the bottom of the door was removed along with the C bracket and the window was cranked back up. I could then easily remove one vertical tube, do the modification and reinstall it without taking out the window brackets and regulator. .....thanks and best regards to all who threw suggestions my way. John

Hello. I've been away from it for a while but again today I had a go at it. I came away from it very, very frustrated. I've changed the regulator to 70, the guides, checked the vertical runs to ensure the right angle and the fact that they were oriented in the door correctly. The result is that the window rolls up into position smoothly. However the glass is leaning inwards touching or near touching the inner skin...moreso at the front. The window felt is on the outside of the glass on the door and there is a definite gap as the window is tilted in. Both vertical runs are pulled to the inside but one thing i've noticed is that this only changes the inner or outer tilt of the very top of the glass. My problem is right at the door edge. The glass is not centered in the gap and when the door is attempted to be closed the top of the glass touches the weatherstrip long before the door is even near the latch. I've examined this long and hard and i'm wondering if in fact the C bracket needs a thicker gasket in between it and the bracket. This way, when the window is rolled up the bracket will be pushed towards the inner door skin and where it pokes through the gap in the door it should go outward. I base this on the spot where the window stops and the C channel comes to rest. That is the pivot point. I have a fairly thin gasket between the C channels and the bracket at the moment. Can anyone tell me what the thickness of the original gasket was? I see on the mustang monthly article that they used rubber baseboard...that would certainly be thick wouldn't it? Any thought or suggestions are of course welcome. I'm beginning to think this aftermarket glass might be curved wrong. thanks....John

I have a brand new set of KB 729-.030 in the box for sale. Summit sells them for $440 plus freight. Open to a reasonable offer as i have no future use for them. Fits 351W cubic inch windsor engines.......thank you....John

Both my 69's had body buck tags held on with a single phillips screw on the rad support just behind the passenger headlight assembly. And of course if you're lucky enough to find your build sheet which is sometimes under the carpet, tucked inside the seats or up in the headliner. One of mine had two..one under the carpet and one in the seat...in very rough shape i might say. The other one had an unrecognizable remainder of one under the passenger side carpet. John

Lots of good info over on http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730/ A few of those guys are Ford tranny tech's...John

While waiting for new roofrail weatherstrip to arrive, i decided to have another go at aligning these windows. Now with the door weatherstrip and bumper stops installed it would appear that the doors are slightly out of adjustment. On the passenger door the upper left (door handle) body seam is sitting in and the lower left portion of the door is sticking out. I'm thinking that the outward lower left would certainly cause the top of the door to tilt inwards which could lead to my glass going in further....sound logical? So, to bring out the upper left of the passenger door i would have to loosen the lower front hinge on the door itself and move the door slightly inwards. And the reverse: to get the lower left of the door to move in flush with the quarter panel the upper right would have to move out by loosening the top hinge on the door. Too bad the body shop didn't align them correctly prior to painting and then reassemble them in that position. I'll tape the fenders/doors and give it a try. I know the fender may have to be tweaked after all this. .....John

Did you recheck the fluid level after you drove it the 20 miles? If you levelled it out initially and didn't put it through the gears then maybe after the run it's now too low. Just throwing out suggestions that won't cost you much....John

Just redid mine. Sylvania 1895's and they fit like a glove and are the correct brightness. I had contacted CJ pony parts and they got back to me with that number but i already had located it on my microfish.....hope this helps...John

I spoke with Dan Nolan at Nolans Mustang Barn. He suggested i take some of the curve out of the upper 5 inches of the sliders as they bend inwards. That made sense to me as these vehicles over the years have had their doors shut by the top of the windows. After bending it gently the windows are worse. When the windows are rolled down about 2-3 cranks the outside gap between the glass and the door is huge and on the inside the glass is beginning to scrape the door frame. Installing the window felts would prove useless in this scenario as there is pressure on the glass inwards...that's what has me stumped. Both adjustments at the bottom of the door are at their max inwards . Getting pretty sick of this stang....:confused1:

Did you get it figured out? john