Gazoo

Sorry, don't have a photo as I was always missing the prop rod. However, I went to the wrecker and got an assortment of used (weakened) gas lift cylinders and mounting pins and brackets and then spent an afternoon fooling around - I now have a gas lift between the trunk hinge and floor so that once I unlock the trunk and lift the lid about 2", it opens the rest of the way by itself and then stays open. Very cool, if I say so myself. (I also have the spoiler, and was getting way tired of the trunk lid trying to amputate my hand.)

Sorry, don't have a photo as I was always missing the prop rod. However, I went to the wrecker and got an assortment of used (weakened) gas lift cylinders and mounting pins and brackets and then spent an afternoon fooling around - I now have a gas lift between the trunk hinge and floor so that once I unlock the trunk and lift the lid about 2", it opens the rest of the way by itself and then stays open. Very cool, if I say so myself. (I also have the spoiler, and was getting way tired of the trunk lid trying to amputate my hand.)

I'm just trying a photo upload here to see if it works

I'm just trying a photo upload here to see if it works

FF70, I'm using the latest 2.888 firmware already. I did pull the IAC out of the body to watch it - but I can't get it to move at all, and I tried two different ones. I must have a wiring problem, I think. Where did you mount the ECU and relay board? I sacrificed my glove box, and have mounted the Innovate 02 gauge right beside the other two gauges in my gauge pod on the console. Is there any easy way to add pictures into a thread? I could start a new thread and include some pics.

FF70, I'm using the latest 2.888 firmware already. I did pull the IAC out of the body to watch it - but I can't get it to move at all, and I tried two different ones. I must have a wiring problem, I think. Where did you mount the ECU and relay board? I sacrificed my glove box, and have mounted the Innovate 02 gauge right beside the other two gauges in my gauge pod on the console. Is there any easy way to add pictures into a thread? I could start a new thread and include some pics.

Hi ForceFed, Busy winter here too. Completed my Megasquirt install using GM TBI for now, got it running two weekends ago. Having problems with the IAC valve not working, need to diagnose that yet. And then tune it properly of course. Have the EDIS parts waiting, but want to have the fuel injection working properly before messing with ignition. MS has been quite a learning experience. And I noticed the other day that I have a rear axle seal leak which probably means a brake job on that side along with the axle seal.

Hi ForceFed, Busy winter here too. Completed my Megasquirt install using GM TBI for now, got it running two weekends ago. Having problems with the IAC valve not working, need to diagnose that yet. And then tune it properly of course. Have the EDIS parts waiting, but want to have the fuel injection working properly before messing with ignition. MS has been quite a learning experience. And I noticed the other day that I have a rear axle seal leak which probably means a brake job on that side along with the axle seal.

Very sweet, nice fab work!

That whirring sound means your starter is spinning but the starter drive is not engaging the ring gear/flexplate. Sounds like you need a new starter drive.

My 69 does not connect to the frame rail tabs either, not even close. I wonder if there was some sort of little bracket that originally went in there.

I had a 77 Ford Econoline motorhome that had a very similar problem - you could turn off the ignition and take the key out and it would keep running. Additionally, if you left the ignition "on", but with the engine not running, it would occasionally engage the starter itself. Scared the crap out of me. The problem was a melted electrical harness running to the neutral/park/starter interlock/reverse light switch in the transmission. It must have at one time laid against the exhaust manifold and was shorting out intermittently. I replaced the bad wires and that was the last of my ghost starts.

The Rimblow switch is just a flexible rubber strip that slides into a slot running around the wheel. The only difficulty I had was that the old rubber was deteriorated and had got sticky and gross, and would not slide out. I had to pry it out bit by bit with a small screwdriver. Once all the old rubber was cleaned out, the new one slid right in.

I went to pick-your-part and got a mirror with the nighttime-dimming feature from a Lincoln. It fits right on the same mounting boss.

I added a used clutch pedal which was easily added to the stock power brake pedal support. I had to cut off part of the wider power brake pedal to fit a standard brake pedal pad.

For those interested in the subject, the following article is pretty good at actually explaining why the price of oil is so volatile as a result of global influences. Hopefully the link works. The API has been around for decades and decades, and has developed and maintains most of the standards for fuels, lubricants, oilfield equipment etc. etc. http://www.api.org/aboutoilgas/upload/FACTS_ABOUT_OIL_INDUSTRY_MERGERS_PRIMER_05_19_08.pdf

Impressive work.

Looks about like this.

I have the performer RPM intake, Edelbrock carb (no carb spacer) and the Cobra air cleaner with a short element - it fits, but with little extra room. A tip for checking clearance - loosely wad up a couple balls of aluminum foil and set them on your air cleaner. Carefully close the hood and then check to see how squashed the foil balls get - this will show you how much room you have.

Sweet!

The only time I've checked it I got about 24 mpg (imperial gallon) which would be roughly 20 mpg (US gallon). This is with 3.25 gears. I'll have to check it more carefully this summer. But yeah, it's great to be cruising at 75 mph and barely be turning 2000 rpm.

Yes, send me a PM with your regular email and I'll send you some of decent resolution.

Just my opinion - in the 24 years I have owned my Mach, I had Holley(s) on for the first 12 or so - and constantly fought with them to get it to run properly. I tried a double pumper, a 4160, a 3310 - tried different power valves, different jets, different nozzles, viton needles and seats, fuel pressure regulator, had the baseplate milled to be sure it was flat, had the blades rebushed to be sure they didn't leak, and on and on and on. I even had a special pan that I made to allow me to pull the float bowls off and catch all the gas without spilling on the manifold, I was doing it so often. Then finally, in about '96, I got fed up and bought an Edelbrock 1406 - bolted it on and IT RAN GREAT. I still have that same carb on today, and haven't done a damn thing to it, other that rebuilding it about 3 years ago to clean it out and refresh the gaskets. So, just another perspective. For those of you who have great running Holleys, I salute you. I guess you understand them better than me. But I'll tell you, I'm sure happy with my Edelbrock.

Here in Alberta we are paying about 1.26 a litre for regular, which works out to about $4.55 per US gallon (dollar exchange not considered.) Premium would be 1.33 or $4.84 per US gallon. I'm very glad I put the T5 with overdrive in my car. Unfortunately the car rarely sees fifth gear around town.

Marc - I have sent you a PM with email address - thanks!! Jerry69 - thanks for the good idea. That would obviously be the simplest thing to do first!