6T9Mach1

Except when you have a 60psi relief spring and you plan on spinning the engine above 6000 rpms :)

I agree with the majority of the article. Not sure I understand the necessity to have "relief valve pressure" off idle to protect the engine. I'm assuming he means that you need to have that high of pressure to keep the oil cushion between parts during heavy, sudden load? Sounds good in theory but there are many, many very talented builders that subscribe to the 10psi per 1000 rpm formula at any rpm and build engines that get thrashed on and live a long and happy life. Not even sure how important pressure is considering a NASCAR engine can drive for 500 miles at 9000 rpms with around 50psi of oil pressure. Obviously a different situation then a street motor or even the usual street/strip engine. I think the bottom line is that having enough flow to support your engine is the most important thing and too many people put an emphasis on pressure which tends to get them into trouble by using to thick of oil, and in turn hurting flow. I've always thought that in most cases a standard pressure oil pump is more then sufficient and that the proported benefits of a high volume pump did not outweigh the increased drag and excess heat caused by a high volume oil pump, but of course the gentleman in the post has most certainly forgotten 10x more about engines then I've ever known. Interesting post and information to consider.

+1. A Vic Jr. is about a minimum requirement for an engine like this. A dual plane intake is going to be a compromise. I agree that any aftermarket intake is probably going to take a fair amount of modification.

Raven Black or Silver Jade. Funny enough my car was originally Black Jade, go figure lol.

+1. If its just a bit of surface rust it should not be a problem.

The way I do it is... 1) Start with cylinder #1 and go around adjusting the valves one cylinder at a time. 2) When the exhaust valve just starts to open, this is when you adjust the intake valve. Loosen the rocker arm lock so there is slack between the pushrod and rocker arm. I like to jiggle the pushrod up and down rather then trying to spin it. Tighten the lock until there is no more slack between the pushrod and the rocker arm,then tighten the lock an additional 1/2 turn. 3) Once that is done, continue to turn the engine over in the normal direction of rotation until the intake valve begins to open. When the intake valve opens to maximum lift and is almost closed, this is when you adjust the exhaust valve. Use the same technique above to get the optimum preload. 4) Repeat the steps above for the next cylinder until you have adjusted all the cylinders. On another note what has been done to the engine. Have you changed anything on the top end and did you measure for the correct pushrod length?

... stick shifts are fun ;)

What percentage of cars at the local 1/4 mile track are running a stick shift? Road racing and drag racing is an apples to oranges comparison.

It would be nice but there are just too many variables in building an engine to do that and get it right. Thats why they leave the extra material.

I've got a manual shift automatic and it is a complete blast to drive. Much better than having to screw around with a clutch. Still plenty of fun.

But it wont make as much hp on the dyno :devil2:

I don't have any personal experience with the Hurricane manifolds but I have heard that the casting is a bit rough. They usually take more work to clean up the plenum and runners then an Edelbrock Vic Jr. As far as port size goes, if they are similar to the Vic Jr. you are going to have a fair amount of porting to do to get them port matched to a set of AFR 205's. I have a set of lightly ported Canfield 192's (different design of head so the 192 is misleading; size is closer to a set of AFR 185's) and the Vic Jr. ports were still smaller then those little ports. The Vic Jr. intakes are designed to be port matched so the ports are smaller and there is alot of meat there to work with.

Auto, auto, auto...:biggrin:

Well, I guess at least you got the car back home in one piece. Thats worth something :)

They did not tell me what was corrected and I did not receive any uncorrected data. The numbers really aren't all that important to me so I did not give it much thought. If I really wanted to squeeze every last bit of hp out of the thing for a dyno run I would probably lean the carb out slightly and play with the timing. Valve lash of course is something to play when trying to get every last drop. If I really wanted to cheat I'd throw on a carb spacer (I've got no carb spacer now as it sits due to lack of hood clearance) since I'm sure that this intake does not have enough plenum volume for this engine. I'm sure that I could gain quite a bit with a spacer. Bottom line, its a street car that may see the track a couple times a year so it probably won't get played with much. Track times are what will really let me know how the engine performs. Chassis dyno's can, quite frankly, be all over the map and I don't put much stock in them other than for tuning purposes which I'm sure that you understand. The trip was really just to see how the air/fuel was and getting some numbers on it were just a bonus. The best run was with the air cleaner off but I only saw a gain of 4hp with it off, but it was better everywhere throughout the pull. I'm still running a 3" paper air filter that is too small for this engine but I was suprised at how little it held back the engine.