copb8 97 Report post Posted December 1, 2017 I went for an auto inspection today and when I went to hit the horn I got nothing. It worked the last time I used it. I figured it was something simple but I've just spent 3 hours messing with it and can't locate the problem. I had the aftermarket steering wheel and hub removed and put a meter to several locations. I confirmed the horn button had continuity when pressed. I found I had no power to the floating pins that ride on the back side of the steering hub. I also metered the bottom of the pins where the wires connect and no current there either. I metered across all the fuses under the dash and all check out fine. I looked to see if and where a fuse is for the horn but I'm not sure there is one. I do know there didn't appear to be any current to either side of the very short fuse in the fuse block. So I guess my first question is whether the horn button wire is fused through the fuse box and if so which fuse? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 1, 2017 On a 69, the horn is not fused but gets its power from the headlight switch. On a 70, the horn is fused, and gets its power from the lower left horizontal fuse, IIRC. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted December 1, 2017 This one? I checked it's continuity and it's good. Power on both posts. Note that the box text is upside down but that's how it's mounted in the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 57 Report post Posted December 1, 2017 I would suggest you start at the horns themselves, put 12v+ direct to each horn and work back from there, could just be a ground issue, its strange that the 69's never had a horn relay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted December 1, 2017 Just tested the horns and they both work perfectly. On to the next step........ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted December 2, 2017 I had a problem with the horn not working recently, and I found that there was a tab ( either on the horn ring or the thing it mounts to - can't rem which), that needs to be in constant contact, so that when the ring is depressed, the circuit is closed. This tab didn't quite touch all the time with my repro wheel. By slightly bending this tab to stay in full contact, the horn works again. It's not a very impressive design, and some of these repro parts just aren't exact. Not sure this will help you, but my problem was purely mechanical, not electrical per se'. To be clear, the tab is used to complete a ground or something, so it affects electical, but it is not a wire or a fuse or a switch - if that makes any sense. The tab in question on my car is near the top when the wheel is centered. Have to have horn pad off to see it. Hope that gives you something to look for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted December 2, 2017 Problem found. There's a connector under the dash mounted to the steer wheel support bracket with all the wires of the steering wheel column passing through it.. The yellow wire pulled out of the of the car side of the connector. I'm assuming I'll need to pull the old pin somehow and then crimp a new pin on the wire and re-insert. Are these pins available at auto parts stores, or are they hard to find? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 3, 2017 These are standard Molex pins, used now in Mate-N-Lok connectors. It's best to use a special crimp tool, but if one is careful, one can use standard tools as well. I have these pins, as I usually go through about 500 a year. Radio Shack used to carry them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted December 3, 2017 11 hours ago, Midlife said: These are standard Molex pins, used now in Mate-N-Lok connectors. It's best to use a special crimp tool, but if one is careful, one can use standard tools as well. I have these pins, as I usually go through about 500 a year. Radio Shack used to carry them. Perfect. I'll get hold of some of these. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted December 3, 2017 12 hours ago, Midlife said: These are standard Molex pins, used now in Mate-N-Lok connectors. It's best to use a special crimp tool, but if one is careful, one can use standard tools as well. I have these pins, as I usually go through about 500 a year. Radio Shack used to carry them. Is there a specific model number or description I should be looking for. Seems there's more than one kind of Molex pin from my searches. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 3, 2017 You need pins for 14-20 AWG wires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted December 4, 2017 Ordered. Thanks for all of your help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites